ORB RAW with non-rechargeables

Dave Huck

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Apologies in advance if this is a dumb question (I also tacked this q onto an RCR2 thread on the electronics board).

Can the ORB RAW be used with normal CR2's? It seems a lot of people have had problems with the rechargeables and I'd rather rely on normal lithiums in case of emergency anyway (or read too lazy......).

Cheers

Dave
 

mtbkndad

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Yes, It is just not as bright. I got one to try but never got around to trying it as I also bought multiple RCR2's. I have 6 RCR2's between my two Orb Raws and have yet to have a problem.

Maybe somebody that uses regular CR2's in an Orb Raw could share their ressults.
If nobody does I will try to get one and do some tests tonight.

Take Care,
mtbkndad :wave:
 

liteboy

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Can the RAW use the rechargables made for the HDS series of lights?? Otherwise, do not need to buy additional charger and batteries...
 

Haesslich

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liteboy said:
Can the RAW use the rechargables made for the HDS series of lights?? Otherwise, do not need to buy additional charger and batteries...

Given the HDS-series lamps use CR123 cells or AA cells... no. :D

At least, not without a new body to put the R123 into... and I only know of one ever having been made, and not by Rob.
 

liteboy

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Haesslich said:
Given the HDS-series lamps use CR123 cells or AA cells... no. :D

At least, not without a new body to put the R123 into... and I only know of one ever having been made, and not by Rob.

DUH... :stupid:
 

mtbkndad

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Okay I found the Duracell CR2 that I purchased to do some tests with several months ago. It has never been used (I checked its voltage and it was 3.2 volts so I felt it was fine to use tonight. I did some quick tests.

U bin Orb Raw with RCR2 that was charged about 1 1/2 months ago and has been in a storage case. (4.19 volts)
1570 lux at one meter.


U bin Orb Raw with a several month old but never used Duracell CR2

233 lux at one meter.

Nuwai Q3 with fresh Titanium CR123A (3.3 volts)

545 Lux at one meter. (After initial quick drop)

Now for practical descriptions, sorry I did not have time to pull out my digital camera tonight.

Even with a regular CR2 I could dimly but noticably light up my neighbor's white slatted utility trailor around the 165 feet from where I was standing on this very dark night (0 street lights).

The Q3 lit it up well just not bright.
The Raw with a RCR2 lit it up very nicely and I could even see the vertical post that holds the trailer hitch end up.

In my yard the U binned Raw, with a CR2, lit up part of my yard that is around 75 feet away well enough to identify objects,with natural light/dark color contrasts, without any real trouble and within 50 feet it was was much better. That is until I turned the Q3 on. Then the Q3 looked much better and brighter.
Of course when I turned the Raw on with an RCR 2 in it the Q3 then seemed rather dim.

I do own 2 U binned Orb Raws and within say 45 to 50 feet the difference between one with a CR2 and one with an RCR2 was obviously brightness, but not necessarily visibility. Beyond that and everything changes dramatically.

One other important point to mention when comparing the Raw with a CR2 and a Q3. The Raw's corona is much wider and the transition from hotspot to the corona is much smoother. Everything is dimmer but more even. In the example above, the CR2 Raw dimly lit up not only objects 75 feet away but a very wide section up to that point. The Q3, which actually has a fairly wide beam, was very narrow in comparison. Brighter, twice as bright, but narrower.

From 1 foot away the diameter of the Raw Corona was 19.5"
From 1 foot away the diameter of the Q3 Corona was 13.25"

The last measurement I will mention is from a little light box I made. It is a modification of Quickbeam's design. Both designs us a milk carton on it's side. Quickbeam's design has the hole for the light in the center of the top side and the hole for the meter in what would normally be the bottom of the carton. Facing the beam at a 90 degree angle.

My design involved marking the carton into halves lengthwise so the hole on the top side could be in the center of one half and the hole on the side (actual side not normal bottom of the carton) could be in the center on the other half and not facing the beam itself. Think different axis in parallel a plane. I did this for testing the relative fill capabilities of mtb lights. It is very consistently repeatable. ( I will soon retire this as I have a new large design I plan to make)

Relative fill values

Orb Raw CR2 335
Q3 691
Orb Raw RCR2 2193

In summary a CR2 works in a U binned Orb raw The light it gives is very wide and even, though dim. On a dark night like tonight it creates a wide area of dim and useable light that is not too hard for the eyes to adjust to when either turning on or off.

It is half as bright as my Q3 and roughly 1/6 th as bright as using a RCR2.

Take Care,
mtbkndad :wave:
 

Dave Huck

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Wow, all I can say is thanks for such a comprehensive test! I guess that rechargeables are the way forward.

Cheers

Dave
 

Wolfgang_Ludwig

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The advance in using non-rechargeables is runtime. Even after 10 hours continously running the raw is still brighter than a new arcAAA or Peak Matterhorn with fresh battery. First I couldn´t believe it. So I tested twice with same result. Rechargeables make it very bright but fade very fast away.
 

Spidey82

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Would the cr2 perform better in a one watt raw?
how abt a 2 stage?
RCR2 high&Low
And
CR2 high&Low
 

Haesslich

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Spidey82 said:
Would the cr2 perform better in a one watt raw?
how abt a 2 stage?
RCR2 high&Low
And
CR2 high&Low

Nobody I know of has created a LuxI-based RAW... since the LuxIII's effectively the same beast, but with better heatsinking, which is REQUIRED with the RCR2's - the bugger gets hot when run for more than 20 seconds.

If you want to run a RAW with a CR2, it'd be easier to just get a TWOH LuxIII and then do a direct-drive off that; it won't be as bright as the U-binned RAW, but it'll run somewhat longer and brighter with the CR2 than the U-bin would. On 'low' mode, it doesn't really matter as much... since you're underdriving it in either case, though the RCR2 would provide more illumination, and I'm not sure how bright it'd be with the resistor-impaired 'low' mode with the CR2.
 

Haesslich

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TorchMan said:
Haesslich,

What about the one in this thread?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/95675

Ah, no wonder I didn't know about it - haven't worked my way that far down yet. If it's using the same reflector as the standard Orb RAW, it wouldn't be too bad so far as the beam pattern goes - big hotspot, some corona. Yes, the CR2 would probably perform better in that due to the H-bin than it would in the J-or-K binned LuxIII's of the standard RAW.

Personally, I think I'll stick with RCR2s, at least for now, and save the CR2's for the Jil-DD or similar lights. While that RAW is designed for CR2's, I like being able to use them as an option in my LuxIII-based one, when I'm out of charged RCR2's.
 

Spidey82

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Any interest? in The Raw with:
1 Watt RWAH Bin
Standard CR2 NOT Rechargable.
Run Time 3 hours +
Led Lumens 45
Protective case
£23 or $39.

Thats where i got the 1 watt thingy from...
how the brightness compare to the t bin?
3 over hr runtime..... thats long...
 

Haesslich

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Spidey82 said:
Thats where i got the 1 watt thingy from...
how the brightness compare to the t bin?
3 over hr runtime..... thats long...

If it's anything like the R-bin in my Fenix L1P, the 1-watt will get creamed in terms of total output by even a T-binned LuxIII, and the U-bin would stomp it even worse. The reflector, however, creates a nice big hotspot with a good flood... so it wouldn't be too bad. Just don't expect it to win any contests when it comes to throw or brightness. It'll probably run longer in the low-level than the high, which is probably what the 3hr figure is for.
 
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