Interesting problem with my KL4.

WDR65

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Just purchased a KL4 from Bravo25 and its in great shape, works fine on my new style E2o body. This afternoon though I tried it on my E2d, one of the older style with the two flat sides and it will not turn on at all, I switched tailcaps between the two and batteries and the only part that seemed to not work is the E2d body. It will run my KL1 fine, but I'm just wondering what might stop it from running my KL4. Its not a huge deal, but I am curious as to what might cause this and if someone else has had this problem.
 

NextLight

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My KL4 (L4s head) must be screwed down ALL THE WAY TIGHT on all of my other E series bodies, or it will not turn on at all. Being unscrewed just 1/30th of a turn, it won't work. Even though I am an engineer, I have not yet determined the cause for this. YMMV.
 

Bravo25

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I'll know in a couple of days I guess. I just ordered an E2D body for my KL1-BK-WH. It should be here in the next day or two. I hope it works, or at least that someone figures out why not. I could just switch the E2E-BK with E2D-BK, but I would rather not.
 

WDR65

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Just tried screwing it down tighter no luck. Its not essential that I use it on my E2d though. Chuck, its working great otherwise thanks for the deal. I'm just curious, lol. I have a tendency to play with all my E series parts and see how things look and feel. I'm looking at the threads now to see what's different.
 

Bravo25

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You might try this. If you have a washer or spacer that will fit inside, and has a hole big enough to around the center section, drop it in the head, and then screw it back on. You might even try removing the o-ring at the top of the E2D, and the replacing the head. ( I would probably try this first). Let us know. Also make sure the clip is seated as far down as it will go in the slot.
 

Kiessling

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DO you use PILAs? I experienced some similar problems because of the flat nipples of those ... in some lights they work, in some they don't :shrug:
bernie
 

easilyled

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Taking up Bernie's line of thought, one of my AW protected 17670's didn't work properly in my L4 tube (with KL4), until I placed the flattest of magnets
on the positive end of the 17670 - then it worked perfectly.

This magnet came withthe 17670's from AW and is really tiny - but it makes all the difference.

It may be worth trying that.
 

WDR65

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Ok. I checked the clip and its fine, took off the o ring and it made it seat a little better, but it may not be making contact. The contact nipple on the KL4 is a bit shorter than the one on my KL1. I'm also using regular 123's and either Surefire or Batterystation brand. I've been switching pairs to see if one worked better than the other. I don't have a washer here in Raleigh that will fit, but as soon as I get back home I'm gonna try that idea. Thanks for the suggestions guys and I'm gonna keep playing with it. I really like it on the E2o and think it will come in handy opening day of deer season later this week.
 

oldgrandpajack

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I have the black KL1 and black KL4 on E2D bodies. Everything works great. They aren't the "two round sides" E2D bodies though.

Just tried the black KL1 and black KL4 on a "two round sides" E2D body. Both worked fine.

oldgrandpajack
 

WDR65

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Update. I just tried the incandescent head on the E2d body as well, the one that came with it and the head from the E2o and neither worked also. They both work on the E2o though. So as of right now the only head that still works on my E2d is the new style KL1. The tailcaps work with any of the heads, so it seems that I'm having a problem with the body. The incandescent head used to work fine and it was my EDC for months.

I thought this was just something to do with the contacts and the KL4 head. Instead I've apparently discovered something wrong with my E2d body. Anybody else had this happen? This is a first for me and I've been using Surefire E series for a while.

This might not be appropriate for the LED forum though so Mods feel free to move to general flashlight.
 

oldgrandpajack

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I'd guess that the threaded portion, on the bezel end of the body, is just a tad shorter than normal. Only fix would be to return it to Surefire for a new body.

oldgrandpajack
 

WDR65

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Oldgrandpajack,
I was afraid of that, lol. Thanks for the advice you've offered and the testing you did and thanks to everyone else as well. I believe I'll do just what you suggestest and send it back as soon as this week is over.
Dudley
 

jtice

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Make sure the top if the body has no HA on it, and its not dirty.
The very top lip is what engages the head, and grounds it.

If you were just using Pilas etc, I would say its a contact problem with the nipples.
I have added a small amount of solder to the top of all my Pilas, and on some of my heads.
 

WDR65

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The threads are clear, but I looked at the clip a bit closer this morning. I took it off and replaced it and now I can see where the clip itself is catching the outer lip of the KL4. For some reason though it doesn't do that to the KL1 but it does to the incandescent heads and the KL4. All the heads work fine with the clip removed, so I'm thinking I've damaged/bent the clip in some way and I'll have to fix or replace it.

I wish I was using Pilas and I think I'll purchase a few as soon as I can, they sound quite useful.
 

The_LED_Museum

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I just tried the KL4 head on the E2D body from the E2D I won in the "Bag 'O SureFires" raffle just over a year ago, and it works fine on that.
I know, a single sample doesn't speak for the rest of the SureFires, but it did work on mine.
 

WDR65

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I'm not trying to down Surefire or anything. I've been carrying the KL4 on an E2o and finding it quite useful. My Surefire's are my favorites and normally my go to lights and this was just an experiment in case something happened to my E2o or something along those lines. I might send the body back to Surefire or just use the KL1 with it and wait until I buy another E2 series body for the other heads and then send it off. Thanks for all the help and replies folks.
 

Braddah_Bill

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WDR65 said:
The threads are clear, but I looked at the clip a bit closer this morning. I took it off and replaced it and now I can see where the clip itself is catching the outer lip of the KL4. For some reason though it doesn't do that to the KL1 but it does to the incandescent heads and the KL4. All the heads work fine with the clip removed, so I'm thinking I've damaged/bent the clip in some way and I'll have to fix or replace it.

I wish I was using Pilas and I think I'll purchase a few as soon as I can, they sound quite useful.

I think you just found your problem........If the clip is not FULLY seated in the slot it will prevent you from screwing the head all the way down. I lock out my KL4 from turning on by just turning (unscrewing) the head just a bit.

When you take off the clip the small plastic wedge (that fits behind the clip) only goes back one way..... take a look at the picture if the clip is hitting the head, the clip is not seated fully.

KL4-BK.jpg
 

WDR65

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Braddah Bill,
You were right it wasn't seating properly, but somehow the clip must have been bent or something along those lines as I couldn't reseat it. I filed off a little bit of the "legs" of the clip and it fits and works fine now with the incandescent and KL4 heads.


Thanks for all the replies guys and I'm glad I didn't have to send it off as I already plan to send off my KL1 to see if they can do anything about the tint.
 
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