Upgrades for SF E2E?

pcmike

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I'm really considering getting the SureFire E2E beacause of the size and the pure quality of the product directly from the manufacturer. However, I'm really interested in possibly using this light as a base for an LED flashlight. What sort of options are available for taking an E2E (using regular primary 123 cells) and using LEDs? I'd really like to hear all the options. I've seen a few at various sites like the BOG 3W/5W, but thats about it. I'm going to do some searches and check the various CPF advertisers, but I figured I'd ask now so I can get some up-to-date and current answers. Thanks guys, I appreciate it!

Oh, also, can someone tell me how if I were to get the E2E I could make and/or adapt the switch so that the light could stand on end? Thanks.
 

pcmike

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I suppose I should of said that I saw those as well, sorry. I'm curious as to the custom modifications that could be done by way of parts that aren't directly from SureFire, though I do understand that the SureFire parts are pretty much just as good, however pretty expensive. Just curious of the different options, thanks.
 

Flash_Gordon

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Hi pcmike-

Are you saying you are considering permanently modding the incan head on your E2E to LED?

I'm sure this could be done, but I am not so sure you would end up with as satisfactory result as using SF parts made to do this.

If you want a light about the size of an E2 that is LED only, you might consider the L4. It is about one half inch longer than the E2, but uses the KL4 5W head. I think you would be challenged to equal this LED output or quality with a mod.

Also, another good choice, IMO, is add a KL1 head to your E2. Under $50 and good throw from the 3W Luxeon. You also maintain the ability to switch between incan and LED easily and quickly.

I am not familiar with any third part drop-ins that will fit an E series head or how they might work.

Mark
 

pcmike

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Nope, not permenantly modify the head to LED, just screw old head off and screw new head on.

When the K2 emitters come out do you think SF would make a new LED conversion module that would work with an E2E or possibly be able to screw onto the L4? I'd hate to get stuck with a $100+ light that can't be upgraded to the new K2s when they are finally released. Also, are the various LED heads interchangeable on the L-series of lights? Thanks.
 

JasonC8301

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Also, are the various LED heads interchangeable on the L-series of lights?

pcmike - L4 heads can go onto E series bodies, basically you can take an E1e and put a KL4 onto it and thats called a TW4. Then take a MN02 or 03 and put that into the E1e incandescent head and put that onto an L4 body.

The L1 and L2 are set-up in a away that the regulation boards are in the body not the head (like the KL1/KL4/KL5/KL6.) I have tried a L2 head on an E2e and found it to work, its just not regulated anymore in that set-up.

A KL5 comes on an M2 body marked L5. I think the KL5 head is capable of being placed onto an E series body with appropriate adaptor (think E2C or LM61.)

A KL6 comes on a M3 body marked L6. This head can be used on the M3, M4, and M6 lights. I am not aware of any adaptor to put the KL6 onto another body (M3-6 series to C/D/P/G or E series.)

I think putting a KL4 head onto the L2 will be a fairly interesting set-up? Pretty much cancels itself out. The L2 on low will resist the voltage/current to the head and the KL4 head will try to boost it to power the LuxV.

I am not familiar with the K2's.
 

louie

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Check the http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php Sandwich Shoppe for Aleph heads and tailcaps. Any Aleph head fits the E2e body, but you build it yourself by picking your own LED and regulator board. The Aleph tailcaps allow tailstanding, and you can transfer your E2e switch internals to the Aleph cap, or buy the McE2s two-stage switch internals.

However, the E2e is a nice incandescent as it is. I leave mine stock and keep it in one of my jackets. In spite of it not being regulated and possibly blowing a lamp out, it's still a great little light with good throw.
 

pcmike

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louie, thanks for the answers. I understand that the E2E is great as is, but I'd prefer longer runtime in its form factor. I always carry a modified maglite that can put out 120L (out the front) for 70mins in my car and I have a modified Mag that can put out a minimum of 170L (out the front) for 67mins that sits on my desk. I'm looking for something that is small (E2E) size that can give me alot of light and long runtime. The E2E with an LED head or an L4 seems like what I need, but I'm open to other options that have the same quality. I just want to start out with the most versatile base light that is also the most affordable.
 

JasonC8301

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pcmike said:
Are Surefire warranties transferable? For example, if I bought a L3 off eBay does the lifetime warranty still cover me?

Yes, if an L3 exists......

To my knowledge, if its a Surefire product, it is covered under warranty (minus bulbs and batteries.)

EDIT: After playing with a KL4 head on a E1e body with McGizmo two stage switch with a Battery Station RCR123, I so WANTED one. But I am saving my beans up for a HDS U60 and Surefire A2.

Same goes for an L4 with the McGizmo two stage switch (can be set-up with a specified resistance to my knowledge), like an L2 but smaller (L2 still has the max 100 watt output while the L4 has a 60 lumen output.)
 
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kakster

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The Aleph series from McGizmo is a good place to start, have a look through the thread here

He also sells tailcaps that will let you stand your E2e on its end.

It might work out slightly more expensive to go this route, but because everything is custom built, you can choose a specification more suited to your own needs than an off-the-shelf solution might.

For instance, outright brightness might be more important to you than battery life, in which case you can specify a unit with a high drive level. And because of the modular design of the Aleph heads, you can even buy different "Light Engines" (basically the component that contains the LED and the electronics) with different specs, and switch between the 2 as needs dictate. In effect, you can have a LED version of Surefire's High output and Low Output Lamp Assemblies.

His tailcaps also have a hi/low function like Surefire's L1 and L2.
 

pcmike

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Well this thread has kind of turned me onto the Aleph system. I haven't quite worked out a spec. yet, but I'm thinking of something in an Aleph body w/ a McR-19 reflector in a I think it's the Aleph-19 head using 2x123 w/ a Downboy (what voltage, I have no clue), perferablely I'd want a low/high (which I guess I can do via a tailcap? Are all these parts still available? I don't want to get too excited on a spec and then find out its not possible to build! Very interesting...
 

GadgetTravel

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There is a lot to be said for the Surefire heads. I bought recently an E2E, E1L and the KL4 head. That gives me the option of putting either LED head on either body depending on the combination of runtime and output I want. The KL1 has very nice throw and runtime and the more I use it the more I like it. The KL4 was love at first sight. It is a wonderful floodlight. Much more output than the KL1. I just added a two stage tailcap from Lighthound to them tonight. It is another great feature that lets you use either KL head in a two stage mode. Love it. Going to order another one as soon as I play around with it a bit and decide if I want the same resistor as in this one (30 ohm) or another one. Also maybe a different style tailcap.
 

pcmike

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Anyone happen to have a runtime chart for the various resistor values offered for the Aleph 2-stage tail switch when used on a 2x123 (using primary lithiums) body?
 

louie

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I think there's so many combos that no one has done runtimes, but check Roy's runtime thread. I know one of my generation 2 KL1s with high dome mod will run about 1.5 hours on one LiIon CR123 on full, and about 8 hours with the McE2S 22 Ohm. Then the go instantly dark due to the LiIon protection circuit. That should be about 2 hours on a primary lithium 123 and maybe 10 hours on low, then more time on dimming light. I didn't have the patience to try a run with 2 cells, especially something like 60 ohms!

However, you get a lot less light than an E2e incand.
 

pcmike

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I was considering getting an aleph, but man it looks like its gonna really add up rather quickly. What I was considering was something like: aleph3 head + db917 + 2x123 body + twok + 2stage switch (15ohm). The head + LE alone is like $169.99 from lighthound, plus the body ($25) + switch ($44), I figure it'd be somewhere around $250 before shipping and all that jazz. For that kind of money I'd probably just buy a HDS light and call it a day, though I'd def. lose the runtime on high (which is what I want, so forget the HDS).

The other thing I was looking at what using a Aleph body ($25) + switch ($44) + KL1 ($51), which would be around ~$120. That would definitely be less then buying a E2E then buying KL1, but not by much until you figure in that you still need a $44 switch for the E2E to get two levels. If you used E2E host, you're looking at what $95 + $51 + $44, or $190, but you'll have a xenon + LED. With the LED you're looking at 3hrs on high, 6hrs on low and with xenon the standard of 1.25hrs @~60l. At this point I'm really not sure what the heck I want to do if anything. I'm trying to decide if I REALLY NEED ANOTHER FLASHLIGHT in the first place.

So many choices!
 

pcmike

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I think I'm just going to go with the E2E and use it as a Xenon light for awhile and then know that I got a TON of options later down the road. Anything I should be aware of when it comes to purchasing an E2E on eBay? Different versions, different years, different s/ns, please do tell!

Also, whats the overall consensus on E2Es versus OTHER surefires when it comes to upgradeability and the most amount of options?

THANKS GUYS, this thread has been all too helpful!
 

pcmike

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Could someone please respond to the questions in the last few posts as this morning/afternoon based on this thread I'm going to go to a local gun range and hopefully purchase a SF. Thanks!
 
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