E2e with KL1 or L4 for security rounds

I just started a new part time job that involves doing security rounds at a small boat station. The boats, 40 footers, have to be inspected including getting down in the bilges and engine rooms; small spaces. But the buildings on station also have to be checked, common areas, boiler rooms, the machine shop etc; larger spaces.

I want to buy a light for personal use, that could also be used when making these rounds. It has to be easy to carry while working but not on rounds (as small as possible but still 2 batteries). Personal safety is not an issue at this location so I dont need a "weapon".

Which of these 2 surefire lights would be best suited to this work?
Thanks

The L4 will give you much more light, in a flood-type of beam. For closer use like the one you describe, it'll be very good. From what I hear the latest KL1's have a very tight beam, but I've only played with them at the store.

While you're at it, grab some rechargeable Pila batts from JSburly's, that way you don't have to worry about throwing more money into disposable 123's.

L4 would be better due to the floody beam. Actually this sounds like a perfect job for a L2.

I would say with the amount of use, go rechargable with an option for primary cells. This brings up the Surefire L4 with McGizmo two stage switch. So I second greenLED for an L4. Also the new KL1's have a really tight and ringy beam due to the optic, but this little thing can throw and its about 1/3 the lumen output of the L4. An E2L with McGizmo switch, and a SF beamshaper might work too.

I get scared of the dark (well freddy Krouger type dark boiler rooms) and will got in there with nothing less than a Surefire M6 (wouldn't mind it being attached to the handguards on a M4 either.) Run time and it being way too bright is also another issue. Also the size is a bit big for belt carry (tried it once or twice.)

EDIT: cslinger pointed out the Surefire L2, would of recommended it but lack of rechargable option stopped from from it. Also if you want smaller, HDS systems light is programmable (the Ultimate series anyway.)

L4 over the KL1 for anything indoors.

Surefire L4 is the minimum, and with the McGizmo two stage switch, a great choice.

One of AW's 17670s and a DSD charger will keep the operating costs down. I own 4 cells, so I can carry a spare even while charging, but I have never needed my spare since I got the two stage tailcap.

Around 90 % of the current KL4 heads will work on a single Li-Ion at full output. I hear some won't light below 3.5V, but your battery is >80% gone by then anyway.) I also use the 2X the Powerstation "3.0V" (actually regulates at 3.2V) REGULATED RCR123A type cells but ONLY WIITH THE TWO STAGE TAILCAP.

Bingo on the KL4 head with Pila rechargeables and a two stage tailswitch. I have that configuration and love it. I think it would be perfect for what you are describing as long as I am correct in assuming you dont need much throw.

i would look into the KL1 head... that way you have massive throw when you need to scan the boats exterior... but when i you get in close you can use the diffusion head to spread the light out into a nice soft spill/flood...

the KL1 head is a lot cheaper than the KL4... also the U2 would be a great light w/ 18650 li-ion rechargeable's...

the runtime on the KL1 head is twice as long as the KL4 and then KL1 head can take two li-ion rechargeable 123's...

i've been running my KL1 head on a two cell body with and without the diffusion filter and its been working fantastic! i love having a BEAUTIFUL perfectly even flood light when working in close... now that i have had this it makes my L2's low beam look like crap...

while the KL4 head will put out a lot of overall light.. your not going to be able to see as far as w/ the KL1 head because the KL1 head has three times as much throw...

quite a bit of people have complained that the KL4 head is TOO bright at close distances.... i find that the KL1 head w/ the diffusion filter is the perfect brightness for most tasks i do... for reading text in a dark basement... to illuminated my path at night in a park... pop the filter off and i get great throw to illuminate that noise in the tree's 40m away..

both heads will work out great... i think if your going to be using your light the most in the 'mid' range get the KL4... if you think your going to need great close, decent mid, and great throw... i'd get the KL1 head w/ the diffusion filter...

however to be honest... the U2 is the best besides its a little anoying to carry for some... if i was doing your job though i'd carry that... the HDS might work too... but i'd stick with something two celled and a little larger so its easier to carry when in your hand...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/96507

this post as more to do with bodies running 1x123... but similar discussion... author was comparing the KL4 and KL1 head's on a single body but info still applies

GadgetTravel said:

Bingo on the KL4 head with Pila rechargeables and a two stage tailswitch. I have that configuration and love it. I think it would be perfect for what you are describing as long as I am correct in assuming you dont need much throw.

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i have a dual tailswitch on my L2 and I don't really like it... its anoying not having full brightness right when you want it... unless you don't run with LOTC.. my E2L's clickon tail cap is so easy in my mind... and with the diffusion head at close range you'll have just enough light... without having to unscrew and get the right output...

i thought i was goignt o get a two stage but now i like the click-on tailcap so much more i don't think i'm getting one...

I scratched the L2 off my "want" list because no rechargeables will fit it.

I would use the KL1. The KL4 will give you a wall of light, but I have found that even in short distances (such as my home) The KL1 will light up a complete door. Plus it has the benefit of throw over the KL4, and the price is a lot better. Also longer run time. As others have mentioned though for regular use I would consider a rechargeable.

I don't think you will find out what you need until you try one, or both. I EDC my KL4 on a single cell body, but more often than not I will put the KL1 back on for a few days.. I don't think one is better than the other, just have different uses.
If you are going to be up close than the KL4 will fit the bill, and then some, a KL1 will have a tad more throw with more light in the center of your target.
From what you describe I would lean towards the KL1, longer runtime, brighter corona, cooler, and cheaper.
I am personally not fond of the F04 beamshaper, it works in a pinch but it becomes a slightly duller version of a QIII.

Thank you all for your responses.
Can anyone tell me how the beam of the E2e with mno3 compares to the kL1 head. I have seen beam shots of E2e mno3 vs. kL4.

Looks like I may have to get both led heads and then use them as appropriate for the given situation. An alternative I am thinking about is to get all 3heads, E2e incand, add the KL1, and also the L4. But I dont want to spend the $ if the consensus is that the incand is not useful If I have the 2 led's. What are your opinions?

Numbers said:

Thank you all for your responses.
Can anyone tell me how the beam of the E2e with mno3 compares to the kL1 head. I have seen beam shots of E2e mno3 vs. kL4.

Looks like I may have to get both led heads and then use them as appropriate for the given situation. An alternative I am thinking about is to get all 3heads, E2e incand, add the KL1, and also the L4. But I dont want to spend the $ if the consensus is that the incand is not useful If I have the 2 led's. What are your opinions?

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I did this, that is bought an E2E and the two LED heads. I havent put the incan head on it since I got both LED heads. I would probably not get the incan head. You can probably always buy that part at a later time if you want it. I would suggest getting the E2L and see if that works for you (get a diffuser also perhaps). Then if you think you want more light for close to medium, get a KL4 head. I still think the KL4 with a two stage switch would be ideal. If the boats are only 40 feet long I think the KL4 will have enough throw for that I think. But the KL1 (as part of the E2L) will definately be cheaper if it works.

The incandescent MN03 is very useful, but the runtime is a lot shorter than the KL1. Although it is a little longer running than the KL4. The KL1 comes close to throwing as far as the MN03, but it doesn't have the side spill. If runtime and battery cost weren't an issue I'd say that the MNO3 is the most useful overall of the three since it does what the other two heads can do and gives you a little better color rendition.

Another thing to consider is that assuming you're on the coast the humidity is a lot higher and it can get misty/foggy at night so that an Led will be reflected back at you a lot more than an incandescent would be. This may or may not be an issue, but I wanted to bring it up as I've run into these problems near where I'm from in coastal NC.