Infinity Ultra + Nichia CS?

eebowler

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All right guys. I was wondering if anyone has done that mod recently. I bought some CS LEDs from James the other day and wanted to stick a few of them in some Ultras. I however, don't want to go through with purchasing the lights without making sure first weather or not they can be moded.


Just yesterday, I changed the LED from a Dorcy AAA light. The improvement in brightness AND beam pattern was impressive. (using the dimmest CS LED!) :)

Thanks for your help.

eebowler
 

greenLED

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I'd say it's feasible, especially if you get the new style (unpotted circuit) IU. It'd be a matter of opening the head, replacing the LED, closing back up. Robocop also has a thread doing this with a new style IU, but I lost the link.

For the old-style: uncrimp the head (the crimp will likely break off completely as you uncrimp it, BTW), boil the head to soften the epoxy, push the LED pill out, boil some more, clean the epoxy (repeat ad naseum - careful with the inductor, it can break easily), desolder the LED, solder CS LED on, center, reassemble.

Craving a LUXI mod? Check these out:
koala's LUXI
darkzero's mod
 

cratz2

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Yeah... that would be a pretty cool mod... I still love the Ultra and it's uber wide side spill.

Speaking of which, I haven't used any of them at all yet, but does the CS have the ability to put out the very wide side spill the stock Ultra LED does?

I definately wouldn't want to lose that spill!
 
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Moat

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Yup... what greenLED said (although I found it easier using a small alcohol "candle" and tweezers to heat n' pick the epoxy away). And a double "YUP" in regards to being super careful around the inductor - they are very delicate!

cratz2 - yes, since the Nichia CS is cousin to the original BS in the Infinities, the beam and spill is all there... with almost twice the intensity. Amazing output for a little 5mm LED. Puts an Opalec Newbeam to shame. A CS in a regular (i.e. - dim) Infinity gives almost as much output as a stock Ultra.

I'd also recommend polishing the reflector while apart - as it significantly increases the hotspot's size and intensity. If you leave the LED's two O-rings off when re-installing the board, you can extend the protrusion of the LED in the reflector a mm or two - and gain a little more hotspot "oomph" there as well - even "tune" it's size/brightness by varying the depth. I then used putty to temporarily seal around the LED when re-potting the circuit with epoxy.

The Nichias are slightly tapered (smaller diameter near their rounded tip, than at their base), so you may have to countersink the bezel's LED hole from the circuit side, to allow inserting the LED far enough to seat its shoulder against the head's interior. Just a small depth needs to be removed - with a drill bit the next size larger than the LED's dia., just above it's shoulder.

mykall - runtime is the same. From what I understand, the old BS and the newer CS are virtually identical - except for some kind of trick die technology that allows almost twice the light to escape the diode junction (someone correct me if wrong).

Worthwhile mod, definitely!
 

Sprocketman

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On another thread somebody mentioned that the crimp that you have to remove to get the innards out of the head is used as the negative contact. Does taking it off cause any problems with that?

Got my CS's from Grumpy's group buy and have done 15 Dorcy AAA's for Christmas presents. The light output is impressive, and every one had good tint--a tad warmer than the stock Dorcy's angry blue spot. Very easy mod that really wakes up a $6 light. I too am ready to upgrade other lights.

Randy Swart
 

greenLED

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Sprocketman said:
On another thread somebody mentioned that the crimp that you have to remove to get the innards out of the head is used as the negative contact. Does taking it off cause any problems with that?

Not really, 'cuz the Infinity board has a (-) on both sides of the board, and the "inside" one contacts the "step" inside the head. It's just a matter of pushing the pill back in securely. Oh, yeah, and this applies to the older style Infinity, I haven't taken apart a new style (yet :D).
 

Grubbster

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I just did this mod today. I used one of the leds from Grumpys group buy and polished the reflector nice and shinny. It measures 94 mA at the tail and is nice and bright with a yellow tint. Pretty easy to do. Not much harder than the Dorcy 1AAA.
 

eebowler

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Sorry Kryo, I got the flashlights yesterday and was so excited to open and change the LEDs that I didn't care to make any measurements.

Be very careful when you are trying to remove the head. Take as much precaution as possible to protect the finish as it is damaged easily. Out of three flashlights, the prettiest one (black) was damaged to such an extent that I had to carry it to a machine shop to make it look prettier. :mecry:
This is with respect to the new Gerber flashlights. Also, when installing the new LED, give the LED legs a little lenght as longer legs presses the LED more firmly on the O rings making a better seal. You may have to cover the legs with something to prevent shorting.
 

Kenski

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Grubbster said:
I just did this mod today. <edited down> It measures 94 mA at the tail and is nice and bright with a yellow tint.

and...

Kryosphinx said:
Anyone know how much current the led is seeing?

and...

eebowler said:
Sorry Kryo, I got the flashlights yesterday and was so excited to open and change the LEDs that I didn't care to make any measurements.

Anyone else know? :thinking: I'm looking at a non-Nichia CS mod to an Infinity, and that's a lot of current, if you want to get any lifetime out of the LED.

Kenski
 
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