Got my Inovas today...

Hi All,
I have been lurking here for the last couple of weeks...now I have 5 new flashlights :buddies: . My latest addition to my collection are two new Inovas, a T1 and a T3. I was really excited about these lights after reading about them. They finally came today, unfortunately the T1 has a fine hairline crack in the inner lens and the hot spot is slightly off center. The T3 came in with a semi crushed box and it was open too:scowl: . Anyway after testing the 2 lights I am really impressed with my Dorcy 3D. Oh I have 1 Dorcy 3D and 1 RR 2AAA and a Maxfire LX. Don't get me wrong I like the Inovas, I think my expectations was just set too high. I was thinking that the T3 would be comparable in throw to my $20.00 Dorcy 3D. The Dorcy has a lot more throw (tighter beam) than the T3, and the light is whiter and a lot brighter on my Dorcy. Compared to the T1, the Dorcy is a freakin searchlight. If you guys have not tried the Dorcy 3D you don't know what your missing. The RR 2AAA is really an impressive little light for $10.00, I really like this light too. Although the light is noticeable blue when compared to the Inovas. But the light is very usable and practical. I really like the looks and the slimness of the RR 2AAA. The Maxfire is my least favorite. I just bought it to compare a really bright Incan to a decent LED flashlight. The Maxfire looks really yellow compared to the Inovas. Although it is brighter than the T3, the Dorcy 3D smokes it in thow. Anyway I will try and see if I can get a replacement for the T1. I will update you guys as soon as I've had more time to evaluate my Inovas.

p.s. Can you unscrew the lens off the Inovas?

The "hairline crack" you mentioned was discussed a while back when the TIROS lights first came out- the TIROS lense is plastic and the "crack" is just a visible seam from the molding process. It's more noticable in some lights than others, but generally doesn't affect the beam, from what I understand. It won't compromise the durability of the light, but if it bothers you, Inova is known for good customer service.

Regarding the 3D vs T3, that's a little unfair due to size. A wide reflector is the best way to get throw- the TIROS is a compromize to get throw out of a much more compact package. Still, I am surprized that the Dorcy is brighter as well (4.5 volts going into a Lux I vs. 6 volts going into a Lux III). Maybe I do need one of those Dorcies for my collection...

Alas, the T series Inova bezels are sealed strongly to the body and I don't think anyone has succesfully gotten one off without damaging the light. (One CPFer took a hacksaw to one of his lights just to get the TIROS out and examine it).

Hi Solstice,

Thanks for the info on the Inovas. I am surprised about the T3 vs the Dorcy too. Maybe i just got lucky with my Dorcy, but it is really much whiter and brighter than the T3. The throw is not even close...ok it is much bigger. You really have to try the Dorcy 3D I think you'll be impressed...if you get lucky and get a good one. My LED on the Dorcy says RY...something something I forgot the rest. I checked it last night after I read a thread here about the bin on the Dorcy 3D LED. Good luck if you decide to get one. I got mine at Target.

Solstice said:

Alas, the T series Inova bezels are sealed strongly to the body and I don't think anyone has succesfully gotten one off without damaging the light. (One CPFer took a hacksaw to one of his lights just to get the TIROS out and examine it).

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Anyone have a link to pix?

I tell ya, those new style Dorcy Super 1W lights are very impressive. I picked one up and mine has an RYAK emitter. I guess they are lightly resistored as well. In case you are unfamiliar with Luxeon binnings, those letters and/or numbers each mean something. Esp important for perceived brightness is the last letter which tells you how many forward volts the emitter or star needs to shine its brightest. The K is a fairly low one which means it will put out more light than an L or M bin. This is good.

The YA section is the color bin... there are several different ones and YA YO and WO are considered among the best.

I'm very pleased with my Super 1W. I'm going to buy another and swap out the stock 1W with a 3W... Of course, it won't be three times as bright as one might expect, buit it should be a fair bit brighter at the expense of less runtime (probably roughly 7 hours compared to roughly 21 hours) but it should be fun to play with.

I also have a T3... It's kind of an akward light in my opinion as it is too large to drop in a pocket yet has nowhere near the output or throw of, say a 3W in a Mag 2C body. If you like the throw on the Dorcy, you've gotta check out something like an L bin Lux III in a Mag reflector. I think I have some comparison beamshots in another thread on the Dorcy if you care to have a look. Still, the T3 is impressive for what it is, and it's obviously a quality piece. I got mine for about $45 and for that, it's a very decent light but at the almost $70 retail price, well, for about that much you can get a 3W Pelican from batterystation which has more throw and more output.

Cratz2, you got me curious so I looked at the letters on my LED again. They a are RYAJW. If I am understanding you right, I have one of the good ones then...cool. I got my T3 for $50.00.

Yes, RYAJ is an excellent 1W bin... probably the very best for this particular light with its resistor.

LEDSABER said:

Hi All,
I have been lurking here for the last couple of weeks...

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WELCOME aboard!!

I agree the Dorcy 3D is bright with a very tight beam. My best guess is that my put's out at least 40 lumens. It's well worth the money.

Archangel said:

Anyone have a link to pix?

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Sorry, I had the thread bookmarked from the old CPF, but it doesn't translate to the new forum. If anyone wants to persist in a search, the exact title of the old thread (grammatical errors and all ) was "How a TIROS optic from the Inova XO look like?"