Maglite 6C Mod

I've got a stock standard 6C cell maglite running off alkalines. I'm looking for a simple, straightforward mod i.e. straight swapping to a high output bulb, aluminium reflector, glass lens and and doing nothing else. Is this possible and can anyone recommend what to purchase and were from? I live in Australia. I've been reading about the WA bulbs in this forum but I'm utterly confused as soon as "volts" and "amps" etc are mentioned along with bi-pin and potted bulbs.

Can someone please give a beginner like me some straight forward advice? Thanks

Howdy Witake:

I've been playing with the exact same mod, and am a somehat newbie to this forum also.

My best option so far has been to work on the Roar of the Pelican basis (you'll find lot's of stuff called 'ROP'). Our 6C is perfect, because 6 rechargeable NiMH cells will make the perfect voltage (7.2V nominal) to overdrive the bulbs for the (nominal 6V) lead acid variant of the Pelican Big D. These are potted bulbs, and should fit right into the stock holder.

So, you're on the right track, in my opinion. The bulbs are purchased in a 11W / 24W pair. If you only want to play with the low output (LO) bulb, you could probably keep your stock lens and reflector - it's on the edge of the recommended 10W limit, so you wouldn't want to have it on continuously for too long. It sounds like this is already a wicked improvement over stock.

On the other hand, I've ordered the upgrade lens and aluminum reflectors from the same vendors that are recommended in other threads. I expect my 6 pcs. 4500 mAh NiMH C-size cells to arrive in the post this week, and will let you know how it goes!

(amazingly, I had the presence of mind to NOT put the Pelican bulbs into my alkaline setup, despite my eagerness to see them work. In all liklihood, the nominal 9V produced by those cells would have blown the bulb instantly!)

Have fun, and Welcome to CPF.

-Trev

Good call. The ROP lights merely require six high-current-capable cells, how the owners/builders/designers wish to arrange it is 100% up to their creativity.

The basic instructions can be found here: http://lights.lightrefineries.org/?page_id=9 but feel free to use your own 6C NiMH batteries. One thing though, the high output bulb demands a lot of current, so paying for high quality, high current cells is most definitely a wise idea.

I cleaned up a friend's 6C Mag over the weekend, how I was wishing I could refit it to become a ROP, but the switch was marginal and since I wasn't at home I didn't have the necessary tools to strip and clean it.

Thanks for the advice guys. So basically I just need to buy an aluminium reflector, glass lens, Pelican Big D bulbs and 6 high capacity Nimh C cells and I'll be good to go. My requirements are fairly simple....I don't need to roast marshmallows or set anything alight with my flashlight. I just want something that's more powerful than my stock maglite. Does anyone know if the potted WA bulbs are preferable or just stick to the Big D for simple installation??

Also, I've read a lot of threads about mods like the mag85 etc but there isn't really much information on runtimes and their brightness. My current 6cell Mag may run for about 10 hours but it's only bright for about the first hour (probably even less). If I do this ROP mod, will I only get like 10min at full brightness and crappy output for the next hour or something??

Trev, I'd be really interested to see how your flashlight goes and it'll be great if you could post some beamshots before and after conversion. It seems that not many people own a 6C cell Mag in the US because I haven't read any conversions on it yet but it's quite popular in Aust....especially kept in the car. That's the closest thing to a weapon we can carry....no guns, knives, tazers, pepper sprays, extendable batons....nothing....just a trusty Mag.

Potted WA bulbs are rather difficult to obtain.

CPFers have previously organized groupbuys to have a number of WA bulbs potted by Carley. Potted bulbs are offered on B/S/T from time to time. You should be aware that there have been reports of the potted bulbs popping prematurely, which may be due to the potting process.

The Big D is a production item, and is more readily available than potted WA bulbs. At spec, it's supposed to generate 600 lumens, which is pretty close to the output of a Mag60 (01160 WA lamp overdriven at 6.0V).

The brightness and runtime of the ROP mod is highly dependent upon the capabilities of your batteries. Check the NiMH Battery Shootout, a sticky thread in the Batteries forum. Link here:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=79302

There's a discharge graph of Accupower 6000mAH C cells. At 4 amps draw with the high-output Big D bulb, they should hold up at about 1.15 (estimating from the 3A and 5A curves) for a little less than an hour before they start to poop out. The low-output bulb, at 1.5A draw, should be good for a little less than 3 hours before the batteries poop out.

As alway, your mileage may vary.

Witake,
If your after WA bulbs you should drop Light-Edge an email. I arranged an international delivery to the U.K of 2xreflectors and 2xbulbs a few months ago; no problems.
D.

Hookd_On_Photons said:

Potted WA bulbs are rather difficult to obtain.

CPFers have previously organized groupbuys to have a number of WA bulbs potted by Carley. Potted bulbs are offered on B/S/T from time to time. You should be aware that there have been reports of the potted bulbs popping prematurely, which may be due to the potting process.

The Big D is a production item, and is more readily available than potted WA bulbs. At spec, it's supposed to generate 600 lumens, which is pretty close to the output of a Mag60 (01160 WA lamp overdriven at 6.0V).

The brightness and runtime of the ROP mod is highly dependent upon the capabilities of your batteries. Check the NiMH Battery Shootout, a sticky thread in the Batteries forum. Link here:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=79302

There's a discharge graph of Accupower 6000mAH C cells. At 4 amps draw with the high-output Big D bulb, they should hold up at about 1.15 (estimating from the 3A and 5A curves) for a little less than an hour before they start to poop out. The low-output bulb, at 1.5A draw, should be good for a little less than 3 hours before the batteries poop out.

As alway, your mileage may vary.

Click to expand...

agreed. You need high CURRENT, not high-capacity cells, and it seems that the two are mutually exclusive anyway.

I have had problems finding good, high current C-cells, so what I would have done is put some garden hose, heater hose or rolled paper (my personal favorite) into the 6C Mag, and use six Sub-C cells. Sub-Cs are smaller than C cells, but they handle high currents better if you use things like the Sanyo 3600mAH or GP 3300/3700 high current cells. You can order the GP cells from http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com.

Hmmm. Odd, that there should be such a distinction between high capacity and high current cells. I was going along the lines of "the lower the *C* I demand from a cell, then the better it ought to hold a voltage" (not to mention runtime).

Therefore, a 4 A draw from 2500 mAh batteries is a 1.6 C draw, whereas the same current sucked out of a 5500 mAh battery is only 0.73 C.

I *have* seen rechargeable cells which are stated to have superior high current abilities, but still think that the above will factor into the performance.

Witake: I also carry the 6C in my car (and have since 1990!) It's been useful in a number of brute-force applications, like unsticking my parking brake in the winter, etc.. I'm really going to like breathing new photons into my trusty old companion.

-Trev

I say go with the ROP mod. I just did this with a 5C mag and it is my new favoriite light. I love being able to use common RC packs and chargers. If you decide to go with the Sub-C's, you may have to add a little spacer but based on what I had to do to get them in my 5C light, it wont be that big of a spacer. This is the thread to the mod of my 5C:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97026

i would love to build up one of these ROPs but have real trouble getting the glass lens and Aluminium reflector, is there any aussies here who would be able to order the lens, reflector and bulbs and for me to buy the stuff off them ?
just so you know - im in perth WA

Ah, a subject near and dear to my heart. My main go-to light when things go bump in the night, or when the dogs decide to go on a recon mission around the neighborhood, is Mag 6C.

6x5500mAh C cells , WA1111 (light-edge.com has bi-pins or try Litho123 for some potted ones - he usually as extras laying around), aluminum reflector, mineral glass or borofloat lens - bada-bing, bada-boom, 500+ lumens out the front end for well over an hour.

10 X Intellect 1200 2/3 A @ WA1166 Smoothie.

1000 bulb lumens.:nana:

---------------

- Jeff

2 of the MagCharger Nicad packs a56nd WA1166, aluminum reflector, Glass lens. Very simple and bright. Those cell packs are around $20. Reflector $20 glass $7. Bulb$7

Good luck

Trumped. That didn't take long.

NikolaTesla -

Do you know the runtime or have an estimated runtime with your double MC pack against WA1166? I'm guessing an hour or better? These 10 2/3 As give me 33 minutes. It's a sweet, level half hour but just a half hour.

Jim -

Just horsing around with ya. I like that set-up. I think I would like to try it. Thanks for the links.

6Cs are very nice.

----------------------

- Jeff

The 2 magcharger packs would be fine in a 6D but we are talking 6C here. We have to be fair now The Big D SLA HO would be brighter than the 1111 on the same pack, right? And it is a PR base so all he would need is the aluminum reflector and the lens. The configuration with the 1166 would also be more difficult (expensive) from a battery pack/charging standpoint. Would it even be brigher than the Big D bulb? I thought the bulb lumens for the overdriven Big D SLA were over 1000 (like around 1200). The Big D pack comes with the low output builb too for the high runtime apps for < $9. It really is a good deal.

WhiteHot said:

The 2 magcharger packs would be fine in a 6D but we are talking 6C here. We have to be fair now The Big D SLA HO would be brighter than the 1111 on the same pack, right? And it is a PR base so all he would need is the aluminum reflector and the lens. The configuration with the 1166 would also be more difficult (expensive) from a battery pack/charging standpoint. Would it even be brigher than the Big D bulb? I thought the bulb lumens for the overdriven Big D SLA were over 1000 (like around 1200). The Big D pack comes with the low output builb too for the high runtime apps for < $9. It really is a good deal.

Click to expand...

yeah for a moment I was wondering if some new development had made it possible to stuff D-cell packs into a C-cell body while I was away. Ya can't take anythin' for granted with the rate of change and the effect of Internet Time nowadays :tsk: :tsk:

The Big D SLA bulb stomps the WA1111. Every time I try to find a use for the 1111, the Big D comes up the winner in light output, convenience, PR base, and availability. The very philosophy behind the ROP was that no soldering, hacking of the switch, and need for bipin sockets. In fact, the ROP was conceived during a time when there were no effective bipin sockets available, AND there was a huge shortage of potted bulbs. It was designed to solve this problem and has apparently gone a little further than that.

On my high-current NiMH pack, I get 8.4V hot off the charger (incidentally, ROPs can be lit hot on any six-cell config. Seven cells is where you blow bulbs), 7.2-7.4V under load. 1100-1250 bulb raw lumens. Of course, take rerating formulas with a little bit of salt.

The lower-output 11W bulb in the same pack draws a very conservative 2A and should give you 2+ hours of runtime at least, while still putting out brilliant white light. I am currently running this bulb in my ROP/LE (2x18650 lithium ion) and I am very impressed with the color temperature - it's one of the whitest, if not THE whitest incandescents I've ever seen. It makes my Surefire bulbs look yellow.

If there is enough space in the tailcap (not applicable to all designs, I know the 4D and LE versions do not have enough space), you can even put the lower output lamp in the back so you can exchange them in the field. Beware of hot glass though.. don't change bulbs before they have had time to cool down. Remember these things are $#(!# hot!!

There is also the Big D alkaline bulb (8W) which draws even less power for extreme runtime applications. I have not tested this bulb but I am guessing it might work.

double post

WhiteHot said:

The 2 magcharger packs would be fine in a 6D but we are talking 6C here. We have to be fair now

Click to expand...

Hmmm. I was wondering about that but NT has done some extraordinary things so I thought he had figured out how to do it. Maybe he did? Frankly, I don't even know what those packs look like.

WhiteHot said:

snip... And it is a PR base so all he would need is the aluminum reflector and the lens. The configuration with the 1166 would also be more difficult (expensive) from a battery pack/charging standpoint. Would it even be brigher than the Big D bulb? I thought the bulb lumens for the overdriven Big D SLA were over 1000 (like around 1200). The Big D pack comes with the low output builb too for the high runtime apps for < $9. It really is a good deal.

Click to expand...

I think it was Phaserburn but it could have been Hooked on Photons that first told us about the BIG Ds. I took note but went another way until Kevin told us about the ROP. He just has a way of posting factually about things he's excited about that causes me to want to be in on the fun. Maybe Phaser was using the NiCad 7.2 lamp but I'm sure Hooked On Photons was using the SLA 6V. If my notes are correct, he had success with 7 cells getting 1029 lumens.

I'm pretty sure the WA1166 is brighter at around 1100 bulb lumens on 11 AAs. These 2/3 As instaflashed a WA166 when I tried 11 in a 6C. 10 works extremely well. My best way to compare the two lamps is like this:

I have a 3C with 6 X 2/3 As in it. Love it because it runs all the 3X123 bulbs beautifully. Fairly small. Nice balance. Cheap to run. Safe. No packs. No holders. Just an acrylic tube. (Maybe I'll call it the Big Kev Phaser) I usually just run a CA1057 and PMR...really pretty beam. When I put a BigD 6V in it well, that's awesome. If I compare that side-by-side with my 6C 10 X 2/3 A WA1166, the 1166 is a clear winner in output and throw.

I hope I haven't gone too far off topic. I think the ROP solution is a very good one if not the best. Jim's solution looks good too. I just wanted to post what I had done with a 6C and report that it performes quite well and, of course, to have a little fun with Jim...'cause my 6C is twice as bright as his.

KevinL said:

The lower-output 11W bulb in the same pack draws a very conservative 2A and should give you 2+ hours of runtime at least, while still putting out brilliant white light. I am currently running this bulb in my ROP/LE (2x18650 lithium ion) and I am very impressed with the color temperature - it's one of the whitest, if not THE whitest incandescents I've ever seen. It makes my Surefire bulbs look yellow.

Click to expand...

Check out my beamshots of the BigD SLA LO vs. the CL-1499 in a 2C form factor. It was using 2x123's so I am assuming there is some voltage sag but I really liked the 1499 better (whiter, tighter spot). Last pic in post #76. I also have beamshots of the ROP 5C, ROP 2C low output on 2x18650's, and CA1499 on 3x123's in post #68.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94740

I think you will be surprised about the whiteness and brightness of the 1499.

Thanks to everyone!! I've decided to go with the ROP mod. I've dropped a message to Light-edge enquiring about shipping of an LOP reflector, ordered the glass lens and made some further enquiries about the Big D bulb. It's hard living at the bottom of the world here in Australia!!

Now all I need are some Nimh batteries and a charger. I've been reading in the threads about high current and high capacity batteries? What's the difference and can anyone recommend any particular batteries? There are some 4500MAH C-cells I've seen on Batterystation.com but it doesn't make any mention of currents. What kind of specs should I be looking out for?