Looking at the photos in:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1089436&postcount=18
and trying somethings out I think I have figured out how to make the switch into a two stage twisty where the cliclie switch determins the level.
I also have a more involved method that would give it a two stage clicky determined by the twisting of the tail cap.
I haven't done this but I will do method 1 as soon as I get a surface mount 10-15 ohm resistor I will.
Method 1: (Easy)
Look at the second picture in the post referenced above.
Take a 10 ohm resistor (preferably surface mount) and solder it across the two conductive pads on the circuit board.
Do it so the surface mount resistor is under the o-ring that keeps the spring from touching the threaded mounting ring.
This will allow a small current to flow through the flashlight when the clicky is OFF and when the clicky is on the light will be at full brightness.
Use the switch as a twisty as some people here already do but leave the clicky in the position you want the light.
Method 2:
Drill a hole in the threaded mounting ring.
Place a SMALL isolated spring (or plunger) in the hole so it sticks out a little above the mounting ring.
Run a wire from the spring to a surface mounted resistor that is also connected to the inner conducting ring on the board.
The spring (or plunger) will make contact to the battery tube BEFORE the surface of the mounting ring.
This will allow a small current flow (LOW) when ON and the switch assembly is slightly untwisted.
With the switch assembly all the way twisted in the light will be full brightness.
Brightness levels using a rechargable battery holding a resistor across the battery and body of the flashlight.
Resistance values are approximate.
10 Ohm -- Just right for me a little less than an arc AAA (old style) but MORE throw.
20 Ohm -- Good for close up in a pretty dark room. Still a lot of throw and you could read and move around after you eyes got used to it.
50 Ohms -- A slight glow which would make a good "find me" mode. You can read with it if you have GOOD eyes and hold the light close. You can bairly see enough to move around a dark room with adjusted eyes but I wouldn't count on it.
I didn't measure current flows but the 50 Ohm would probably be in the < 1 mA range based on the brightness compaired to a MJLED running at 4-5 mA.
wwglen
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1089436&postcount=18
and trying somethings out I think I have figured out how to make the switch into a two stage twisty where the cliclie switch determins the level.
I also have a more involved method that would give it a two stage clicky determined by the twisting of the tail cap.
I haven't done this but I will do method 1 as soon as I get a surface mount 10-15 ohm resistor I will.
Method 1: (Easy)
Look at the second picture in the post referenced above.
Take a 10 ohm resistor (preferably surface mount) and solder it across the two conductive pads on the circuit board.
Do it so the surface mount resistor is under the o-ring that keeps the spring from touching the threaded mounting ring.
This will allow a small current to flow through the flashlight when the clicky is OFF and when the clicky is on the light will be at full brightness.
Use the switch as a twisty as some people here already do but leave the clicky in the position you want the light.
Method 2:
Drill a hole in the threaded mounting ring.
Place a SMALL isolated spring (or plunger) in the hole so it sticks out a little above the mounting ring.
Run a wire from the spring to a surface mounted resistor that is also connected to the inner conducting ring on the board.
The spring (or plunger) will make contact to the battery tube BEFORE the surface of the mounting ring.
This will allow a small current flow (LOW) when ON and the switch assembly is slightly untwisted.
With the switch assembly all the way twisted in the light will be full brightness.
Brightness levels using a rechargable battery holding a resistor across the battery and body of the flashlight.
Resistance values are approximate.
10 Ohm -- Just right for me a little less than an arc AAA (old style) but MORE throw.
20 Ohm -- Good for close up in a pretty dark room. Still a lot of throw and you could read and move around after you eyes got used to it.
50 Ohms -- A slight glow which would make a good "find me" mode. You can read with it if you have GOOD eyes and hold the light close. You can bairly see enough to move around a dark room with adjusted eyes but I wouldn't count on it.
I didn't measure current flows but the 50 Ohm would probably be in the < 1 mA range based on the brightness compaired to a MJLED running at 4-5 mA.
wwglen
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