Hi.
I had the cool chance to participate in a German passaround containing the following Pentagonlights:
- PX2 Xenon
- L2 Luxeon3
- X3 Xenon
Here's a size comparison shot in descending order:
After playing with them 2 evenings here's what I think:
Construction:
They are relatively massive lights that offer a good grip. Some don't like the "expressive" machining on the PL but I think this is personal gusto and is not to be judged.
The HA seems fine both in black and nat where the nat is remarkably dull and non-reflective. I didn't see any obvious imperfections in the machining process.
BUT ... there are several weak points to be addressed:
1) the lens has very rough edges making it easier to chip under stress and possibly compromising water resistence. I tried to capture it in a pic but failed:
2) as you can see in the pic above you need to open up the bezel to change the lamp which is bad for several reasons, read more under "Ergonomics". Most important it stresses the lens and might allow dirt to compromise water seals.
3) the gold contacts wear down in no time exposing bare metal and making themselves pretty much useless:
4) the switches can crush batteries when too tight and especially the clicky is a real POS (see below)
5) the twisting action of the switches and the head feels a bit wobbly and less silky smooth than a SF, and the double o-rings engage before the threads making it a bit more difficult to put the things together than it needed to be
Ergonomics:
Operation on all three is pretty simple ... switch on/off with either a twisty LOTC or a clicky. As mentioned above, the big problem is the switch action as the clicky is very hard to push (the rubber) and gives almost no feedback if it actually clicked to constant-on or not. Another bad part here is the fact that you can overtighten the switches and crush the batteries.
I personnally do not like it when batteries are inserted the "wrong way" (--> nipple versus the end) as one might accidently insert them the usual way, and that means there is a learning curve and you'd have to pay attention to that detail. I labeled this point "personal" because Inova users might actually find this very relaxing and perfectly allright.
Changing the lamp is another PITA as you have to unscrew the bezel (non-knurled) for that and the lens is exposed in the process and might fall out or get dirty, thus possibly compromising water resistence. Maybe I am stupid but I did not find another way to change the lamp and in the manual this isn't indicated at all.
As said above, the o-rings engage before the threads making the mating sometimes difficult.
A very minor and stupid point is that due to the closed body on the front end the batteries are much less likely to fall out and roll away on the floor under the nearest table in the far away corner while messing with the light in disassambled state. Not that this would be important, but it got my attention nevertheless
The Light
Despite the shortcomings in construction and machining, something good comes out of the business end: light.
Light formed into a beautiful beam in all three models, and according to my Eyeball MkI the brightness of the lights was completely satisfactory when compared to their SF counterparts. The L2 LED had a nice and almost perfect beam, too, and following Don's runtime graph in an older thread, it can keep it up for about 90 minutes.
Here are some comparisons:
An Aleph1 (27mm) with a TY0J at 1000mA was matched with the PL L2 LED. While the Aleph was a bit brighter, the L2 had a somewhat bogger and softer spot. Roughly speaking ... non-scientific ... the PL L2 does well.
The PX2 vs. the SF G2 (P60) ... there is an interesting difference: the Pentagonlight has a significantly tighter corona while the total output should roughly be the same. Beam quality is good, too, so ... non-scientific ... the PX2 does well.
Unfortunately I couldn't plot the PL X3 vs the C3 (P90 and P91) as my P90 is faulty and produces a funky beam and because I don't have the P91 yet.
Conclusion
In the end, the Pentagonlights I have tested perform well, at least in my non-tactical environment. However they do fall short in construction and machining when compared to the gold standard ... Surefire. Their appealing aspect is the relatively low price point and correct output.
Did Pentagonlight de-throne Surefire? Heck, no, not at all. Surefires are still a different class of their own.
Are Pentagonlights bad lights then? No, they aren't. Especially not for the price. They do have some negative aspects though you should be aware of before purchasing.
bernie
P.S.: Please note that I did not try to scratch the HA nor did I perform any other possibly destructive test as the lights are not mine. Also ... I cannot offer long-term experiences, especially not runtime graphs which would have been informative.
A big THANK YOU goes to those kind folks providing the lights for the passaround: Mark2, chrisse242 and mohr ... :thumbsup: :bow: :wave:
I had the cool chance to participate in a German passaround containing the following Pentagonlights:
- PX2 Xenon
- L2 Luxeon3
- X3 Xenon
Here's a size comparison shot in descending order:
After playing with them 2 evenings here's what I think:
Construction:
They are relatively massive lights that offer a good grip. Some don't like the "expressive" machining on the PL but I think this is personal gusto and is not to be judged.
The HA seems fine both in black and nat where the nat is remarkably dull and non-reflective. I didn't see any obvious imperfections in the machining process.
BUT ... there are several weak points to be addressed:
1) the lens has very rough edges making it easier to chip under stress and possibly compromising water resistence. I tried to capture it in a pic but failed:
2) as you can see in the pic above you need to open up the bezel to change the lamp which is bad for several reasons, read more under "Ergonomics". Most important it stresses the lens and might allow dirt to compromise water seals.
3) the gold contacts wear down in no time exposing bare metal and making themselves pretty much useless:
4) the switches can crush batteries when too tight and especially the clicky is a real POS (see below)
5) the twisting action of the switches and the head feels a bit wobbly and less silky smooth than a SF, and the double o-rings engage before the threads making it a bit more difficult to put the things together than it needed to be
Ergonomics:
Operation on all three is pretty simple ... switch on/off with either a twisty LOTC or a clicky. As mentioned above, the big problem is the switch action as the clicky is very hard to push (the rubber) and gives almost no feedback if it actually clicked to constant-on or not. Another bad part here is the fact that you can overtighten the switches and crush the batteries.
I personnally do not like it when batteries are inserted the "wrong way" (--> nipple versus the end) as one might accidently insert them the usual way, and that means there is a learning curve and you'd have to pay attention to that detail. I labeled this point "personal" because Inova users might actually find this very relaxing and perfectly allright.
Changing the lamp is another PITA as you have to unscrew the bezel (non-knurled) for that and the lens is exposed in the process and might fall out or get dirty, thus possibly compromising water resistence. Maybe I am stupid but I did not find another way to change the lamp and in the manual this isn't indicated at all.
As said above, the o-rings engage before the threads making the mating sometimes difficult.
A very minor and stupid point is that due to the closed body on the front end the batteries are much less likely to fall out and roll away on the floor under the nearest table in the far away corner while messing with the light in disassambled state. Not that this would be important, but it got my attention nevertheless
The Light
Despite the shortcomings in construction and machining, something good comes out of the business end: light.
Light formed into a beautiful beam in all three models, and according to my Eyeball MkI the brightness of the lights was completely satisfactory when compared to their SF counterparts. The L2 LED had a nice and almost perfect beam, too, and following Don's runtime graph in an older thread, it can keep it up for about 90 minutes.
Here are some comparisons:
An Aleph1 (27mm) with a TY0J at 1000mA was matched with the PL L2 LED. While the Aleph was a bit brighter, the L2 had a somewhat bogger and softer spot. Roughly speaking ... non-scientific ... the PL L2 does well.
The PX2 vs. the SF G2 (P60) ... there is an interesting difference: the Pentagonlight has a significantly tighter corona while the total output should roughly be the same. Beam quality is good, too, so ... non-scientific ... the PX2 does well.
Unfortunately I couldn't plot the PL X3 vs the C3 (P90 and P91) as my P90 is faulty and produces a funky beam and because I don't have the P91 yet.
Conclusion
In the end, the Pentagonlights I have tested perform well, at least in my non-tactical environment. However they do fall short in construction and machining when compared to the gold standard ... Surefire. Their appealing aspect is the relatively low price point and correct output.
Did Pentagonlight de-throne Surefire? Heck, no, not at all. Surefires are still a different class of their own.
Are Pentagonlights bad lights then? No, they aren't. Especially not for the price. They do have some negative aspects though you should be aware of before purchasing.
bernie
P.S.: Please note that I did not try to scratch the HA nor did I perform any other possibly destructive test as the lights are not mine. Also ... I cannot offer long-term experiences, especially not runtime graphs which would have been informative.
A big THANK YOU goes to those kind folks providing the lights for the passaround: Mark2, chrisse242 and mohr ... :thumbsup: :bow: :wave: