Nuwai QIII and R123's?
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chimo
Flashlight Enthusiast
Many (me included) have used Li ions in the Q3 with no ill effect. It will drive the emitter harder than a Lithium primary battery - how much harder depends on the Vf of the specific emitter. You will most likely be direct-driving the emitter - a common theme at CPF. 
You can check the current by using a digital multi-meter (DMM) in current mode (10A) by removing the battery cap an using the DMM to complete the circuit from the negative battery terminal to the case threads.
I recommend using protected Li ions as there is no low voltage cutoff in the Q3.
Paul
You can check the current by using a digital multi-meter (DMM) in current mode (10A) by removing the battery cap an using the DMM to complete the circuit from the negative battery terminal to the case threads.
I recommend using protected Li ions as there is no low voltage cutoff in the Q3.
Paul
LumenHound
Flashlight Enthusiast
You can use rechargeable 3.6 volt batteries in a Q3 with out any problems.
Many, many people here on CPF who own Q3's do this, myself included.
What the higher voltage will do is cause the boost converter to be electrically bypassed (since the voltage going to the led doesn't need to be boosted anymore) and you'll notice a increase in brightness from the flashlight.
You will also notice that your wallet isn't getting lighter because your not spending lots of money on primary CR123A cells.
The voltage boost converter in a Q3 operates around a Zetex 301/310 chip and is known to be less efficient than most would prefer so if you are going to use a rechargeable li-ion battery then you should also consider the advantages of running your Q3 drirect drive.
In direct drive, the voltage boost circuit is bypassed completelely and this eliminates the power the converter itself uses up in order to do it's job. In direct drive, 100% of the battery's power goes towards lighting the led whereas with the converter you would lose 30% of the battery's power because of the converter's rather poor efficiency.
Something to think about.
Many, many people here on CPF who own Q3's do this, myself included.
What the higher voltage will do is cause the boost converter to be electrically bypassed (since the voltage going to the led doesn't need to be boosted anymore) and you'll notice a increase in brightness from the flashlight.
You will also notice that your wallet isn't getting lighter because your not spending lots of money on primary CR123A cells.
The voltage boost converter in a Q3 operates around a Zetex 301/310 chip and is known to be less efficient than most would prefer so if you are going to use a rechargeable li-ion battery then you should also consider the advantages of running your Q3 drirect drive.
In direct drive, the voltage boost circuit is bypassed completelely and this eliminates the power the converter itself uses up in order to do it's job. In direct drive, 100% of the battery's power goes towards lighting the led whereas with the converter you would lose 30% of the battery's power because of the converter's rather poor efficiency.
Something to think about.
pbarrette
Enlightened
Hi LumenHound,
Actually, with a Li-Ion, the circuit will probably just stop working since the Vin exceeds the Vf of the LED. In that case, the only losses incurred will be due to the DCR of the inductor and the Vf of the shottkey diode (assuming the Q3 uses one).
I think I may be the only one on CPF who believes that running the stock Q3 with a Li-ion is a bad idea. A much better solution would be to replace the Q3 circuit with a current controlled buck circuit like the downboy and beef up the heatsink.
pb
Actually, with a Li-Ion, the circuit will probably just stop working since the Vin exceeds the Vf of the LED. In that case, the only losses incurred will be due to the DCR of the inductor and the Vf of the shottkey diode (assuming the Q3 uses one).
I think I may be the only one on CPF who believes that running the stock Q3 with a Li-ion is a bad idea. A much better solution would be to replace the Q3 circuit with a current controlled buck circuit like the downboy and beef up the heatsink.
pb
LumenHound
Flashlight Enthusiast
To run direct drive you need to take the boost circuit out of the path between the battery and and the led. This requires the wires that go to the led to be unsoldered from the tiny voltage booster circuit board and resoldered to the board in 2 different places. If your not comfortable soldering wires on tiny circuit boards then just ignore this post. Your Q3 will run fine without doing this.
If you do bypass the converter board with a soldering iron, you will get longer run time on the flashlight before the battery needs to be recharged.
Like Chimo said, protected lithium ion cells are the ones you should use.
Lithium ion batteries don't like it one bit if they are run down to zero (like if the flashlight was accidentally left on) and may not take a recharge at all after that.
The protected kind of li-ion cells are better because they will automatically shut off when their voltage gets to the point where they need to be recharged.
If you do bypass the converter board with a soldering iron, you will get longer run time on the flashlight before the battery needs to be recharged.
Like Chimo said, protected lithium ion cells are the ones you should use.
Lithium ion batteries don't like it one bit if they are run down to zero (like if the flashlight was accidentally left on) and may not take a recharge at all after that.
The protected kind of li-ion cells are better because they will automatically shut off when their voltage gets to the point where they need to be recharged.
wtraymond
Enlightened
pbarrette said:
THere's nothing like spending another $40 on a $35 flashlight.
LumenHound
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hi pb, you've raised an interesting point.
Most, if not all Q3's ship with a K bin (if your lucky) or a L binned Vf star.
The voltage sag on a rechargeable is such that in direct drive the current going to the star isn't as much of a concern as the issue of heat management.
Chimo's 2 cent heat sink (actual cost = 2 cents) mod can solve that.
I like Downboys, they are good converters and I used one in a mod I did back in the spring, but I don't see one in a Q3 as cost effective.
If I was going to invest that kind of money I'd look at an E1E.
Most, if not all Q3's ship with a K bin (if your lucky) or a L binned Vf star.
The voltage sag on a rechargeable is such that in direct drive the current going to the star isn't as much of a concern as the issue of heat management.
Chimo's 2 cent heat sink (actual cost = 2 cents) mod can solve that.
I like Downboys, they are good converters and I used one in a mod I did back in the spring, but I don't see one in a Q3 as cost effective.
If I was going to invest that kind of money I'd look at an E1E.
wasBlinded
Flashlight Enthusiast
wtraymond said:
A Downboy board from the Sandwich Shoppe ranges from $9 to $16 depending on the current you choose. Not exactly $40.
cratz2
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have a third hand Q3 with a TW0J and a 2 stage tailcap. I run the MP 3.7V-4.2V cells from AW in it and nothing has fried yet. I get about 40-45 minutes runtime and it is considerably brighter than on a primary cell. As of a few days ago, I've run each cell (I have two) through 10 runs on the Q3 and everything is working fine.
As mentioned, the light gets warmer than on primary cells but even if you put in a fresh cell, turn the light on (on high, of course) and let it run on a table for 20 minutes, it never gets too warm to pick up. I also wanted to check into if it might be hurting the circuitry (by heat) so I ran the light for about 15 minutes and took it apart as quickly as I could (maybe 45 seconds) and the circuit board wasn't appreciably warm. Better heatsinking would be nice (wouldn't it always?) but the outside of the light gets warm indicating that stock heatsinking isn't quite terrible.
As far as voltage damage to the star itself, my theory (and my theory is equally worthless as the others put forth here
) is that the star is significantly underdriven using the stock circuit (about ~400 - ~550 mA) that with the extra voltage the star is likely being driven at close to spec or a bit overspec. But I have several lights that run completely direct on various LiON cells. I'm sure that the star won't last as long if you always run it on a 3.7-4.2V LiON but then, it's only a $30 light... If already have an LiON charger and you buy two LiON cells for $6 each, you've already justified the use of LiONs vs $1.25 each primary cells after 10 battery changes, discounting the fact that your Q3 is maybe twice as bright as on pirmaries. So if you have to swap out the star with another $10-$15 part, you're still quite a bit ahead of the $$$ curve.
As mentioned, the light gets warmer than on primary cells but even if you put in a fresh cell, turn the light on (on high, of course) and let it run on a table for 20 minutes, it never gets too warm to pick up. I also wanted to check into if it might be hurting the circuitry (by heat) so I ran the light for about 15 minutes and took it apart as quickly as I could (maybe 45 seconds) and the circuit board wasn't appreciably warm. Better heatsinking would be nice (wouldn't it always?) but the outside of the light gets warm indicating that stock heatsinking isn't quite terrible.
As far as voltage damage to the star itself, my theory (and my theory is equally worthless as the others put forth here
Please check out this thread -
Nuwai Q3 with RCR123 + Nano Charger
Lots of people on CPF use the 3.6/3.7V rechargeable RCR123 in the Q3.
Rechargeable Li-ion RCR123 can reach as high as 4.2V when freshly charged -
I don't think there is such a thing as a 4.2V RCR123.
4.2V is often used as a warning for flashlights not suitable with RCR123.
Nuwai's official position is that the RCR123 at 3.6 or 3.7V are not recommended and invalidates their warranty......
My unofficial position is I use a RCR123 in the Q3 -
but if you quote me -
I'll deny it
Nuwai Q3 with RCR123 + Nano Charger
Lots of people on CPF use the 3.6/3.7V rechargeable RCR123 in the Q3.
Rechargeable Li-ion RCR123 can reach as high as 4.2V when freshly charged -
I don't think there is such a thing as a 4.2V RCR123.
4.2V is often used as a warning for flashlights not suitable with RCR123.
Nuwai's official position is that the RCR123 at 3.6 or 3.7V are not recommended and invalidates their warranty......
My unofficial position is I use a RCR123 in the Q3 -
but if you quote me -
I'll deny it
hookoo
Newly Enlightened
cratz2 said:I have a third hand Q3 with a TW0J and a 2 stage tailcap. I run the MP 3.7V-4.2V cells from AW in it and nothing has fried yet. I get about 40-45 minutes runtime and it is considerably brighter than on a primary cell. As of a few days ago, I've run each cell (I have two) through 10 runs on the Q3 and everything is working fine.
As mentioned, the light gets warmer than on primary cells but even if you put in a fresh cell, turn the light on (on high, of course) and let it run on a table for 20 minutes, it never gets too warm to pick up. I also wanted to check into if it might be hurting the circuitry (by heat) so I ran the light for about 15 minutes and took it apart as quickly as I could (maybe 45 seconds) and the circuit board wasn't appreciably warm. Better heatsinking would be nice (wouldn't it always?) but the outside of the light gets warm indicating that stock heatsinking isn't quite terrible.
As far as voltage damage to the star itself, my theory (and my theory is equally worthless as the others put forth here) is that the star is significantly underdriven using the stock circuit (about ~400 - ~550 mA) that with the extra voltage the star is likely being driven at close to spec or a bit overspec. But I have several lights that run completely direct on various LiON cells. I'm sure that the star won't last as long if you always run it on a 3.7-4.2V LiON but then, it's only a $30 light... If already have an LiON charger and you buy two LiON cells for $6 each, you've already justified the use of LiONs vs $1.25 each primary cells after 10 battery changes, discounting the fact that your Q3 is maybe twice as bright as on pirmaries. So if you have to swap out the star with another $10-$15 part, you're still quite a bit ahead of the $$$ curve.
You and I share the same logic :buddies:
cratz2
Flashlight Enthusiast
Here are beam shots of my Q3 (remember it has a TW0J) on a primary 123 vs on MP rechargeable 123s. Top shot is the primary.
tron3
Banned
pbarrette said:
This true of the QIII. I tested it with a dying CR123. At some point it cuts out because there is not enough juice. Below that, it flashes an instant, but does not turn on - not enough juice. If I recall correctly, the battery was down to about 125ma, or less.
Therefore, you can not deplete a rechargeable CR123 to "zero" in it. Thus making it safe for use. I don't think deep discharging the battery is an issue. Even non flashaholics will recharge often to keep the light bright. What is great about rechargeable lithium is they are in fact lithium, and have equivilent shelf life to a regular CR123. :naughty:
