Bolster
Flashlight Enthusiast
(Yes, same bezel.) Cool. So what's the plan?
Spark SD52 Mini Review
- Thread starter Bolster
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
(Yes, same bezel.) Cool. So what's the plan?
Not sure yet.
I could paint the cone white,
paint cone white and diffuse glass,
replace the whole bezel with flat glued plexiglass
or return the headlamp. Got a week to decide.
I like turbo mode for walking around and high when working on things close. Im glad i got the lumens i did. My first neutral led and I like it so much better than blue led but i still would have traded lumens for high cri neutral.
Why are batteries always on the front or back of head and not on top where they'd be most out of the way?
I like the super wide angle of light w/o the bezel. Unfortunately thats what i was expecting this headlamp to be w/ stock bezel. I always thought that super wide angle was ideal if the extra lumens were available but now realize that narrow can be better when obstacles are close by and you want to look into the distance. If the obstacles are one side you can aim the light the other side but if they are on both sides it could be better to have a narrow beam
The glare of the bare emitter is intense for other people close by or if I look in a mirror I see a blinding afterimage for a while.
I wonder how much diffusion would be preferred for the following scenarios?
working with other people or mirrors,
working around polished metal tools,
glossy painted surfaces
This got me thinking about the maximum diffusion that could be designed into a wearable headlamp, maybe 12cm wide x 4cm tall diffuser lens in front of 3 leds?
Are bugs attracted more to a small but bright emitter or a larger but dim emitter?
Next year it will get warm again.
I could paint the cone white,
paint cone white and diffuse glass,
replace the whole bezel with flat glued plexiglass
or return the headlamp. Got a week to decide.
I like turbo mode for walking around and high when working on things close. Im glad i got the lumens i did. My first neutral led and I like it so much better than blue led but i still would have traded lumens for high cri neutral.
Why are batteries always on the front or back of head and not on top where they'd be most out of the way?
I like the super wide angle of light w/o the bezel. Unfortunately thats what i was expecting this headlamp to be w/ stock bezel. I always thought that super wide angle was ideal if the extra lumens were available but now realize that narrow can be better when obstacles are close by and you want to look into the distance. If the obstacles are one side you can aim the light the other side but if they are on both sides it could be better to have a narrow beam
The glare of the bare emitter is intense for other people close by or if I look in a mirror I see a blinding afterimage for a while.
I wonder how much diffusion would be preferred for the following scenarios?
working with other people or mirrors,
working around polished metal tools,
glossy painted surfaces
This got me thinking about the maximum diffusion that could be designed into a wearable headlamp, maybe 12cm wide x 4cm tall diffuser lens in front of 3 leds?
Are bugs attracted more to a small but bright emitter or a larger but dim emitter?
Next year it will get warm again.
Will the seller take it back considering what you did to the bezel?
Bolster
Flashlight Enthusiast
That would be my vote.
Obviously I'd have to put the glass and press fit ring back, and that's way easier than taking it apart.
Who did you buy it from?
Hi Bolster, --Could I ask you (and rest of the crew of course) to read and respond to a letter I wrote to Gregozedobe on the ("H501 listed as discontinued" thread? Realize I've burned it out, maybe in the wrong places, as I asked a couple of others also but they may not respond. But I'll drop it. Don't think I haven't heard what you said about the hotspot blinding, reflections, light variations, constant head movement etc, but as I was reading I wanted to break in and ask if there was anything you missed about the H501, like maybe being able to see what was in front of you with less Lumens and thus better battery life. And other stuff. Don't want to repeat. But really, both you and Spinkid tried and reported on the new Spark focuser and he thought the narrower beam was an aid to close Work. (Hi Spinkid) So maybe I should get the H51f. Most posters just talk blithely like it's as simple as throw for hikers and pure flood for close work. Anyway, you've got way more beam experience then I'll be able to afford, and being a hard worker on the dark side of the road like me I'm thinkin you'll be able to grok what i'm to exhausted to say well, hopefully. And being a flashaholic, you've probably heard it all before, sorry about that. But I've tried to do my homework and don't see this totally fleshed out anywhere, from both sides.
To bad about the Spark memory not working on eneloops eh? Really a bummer. I was ready to get one just cause the zebras only have memory for the secondary levels, it seems, and that's not sufficient. I want to turn off and on a lot and be able to go into medium with one click, which zebra won't do. Unfortuanately, as it turns out, either will the Spark Thought I could put diffuser tape on that extra focuser if it corrected to much in the tight direction as I suspect. Thank's for the listen.
To bad about the Spark memory not working on eneloops eh? Really a bummer. I was ready to get one just cause the zebras only have memory for the secondary levels, it seems, and that's not sufficient. I want to turn off and on a lot and be able to go into medium with one click, which zebra won't do. Unfortuanately, as it turns out, either will the Spark Thought I could put diffuser tape on that extra focuser if it corrected to much in the tight direction as I suspect. Thank's for the listen.
Last edited:
Bolster
Flashlight Enthusiast
I still use my two H501w's a lot, they are much lighter in weight, and the tint is warmer and "friendlier." The SD52W is a helmet light for me; it gets no other duty than that, as the helmet spreads the weight so it's unnoticeable. Hard to compare lumens and battery life as you're comparing 1AA vs 2AA. Let's just say I seldom need to change out cells on the SD52 in the middle of a shift, and generally have plenty of light.
I can see certain types of close work benefitting from a hotspot. Dentistry, looking down a hole, maybe even machining, etc. My work requires broad field of view, "Where did I lay the pliers" and "what other problems are lurking in the dark"? There's a certain type of work where you're looking for...hunting for...your targets, and that sort of work benefits from a wall of light. But with an inexpensive bezel change, you have the best of both worlds, as your task demands it.
If ZL made an interchangeable bezel, your choice would be easy. Too bad ZL won't make an interchangeable bezel.
RGB_LED
Enlightened
Thanks Bolster for the in-depth review. I found this thread and, after reading this and looking at other options, decided to pull the trigger and picked up an SD52 NW. :thumbsup:
I do want to add my two lumens here about the Spark SD52 as I thought this 2xAA light with an NW XML LED would be the ultimate headlamp.
Somewhat of a disappointment... when I use my slightly older AA batteries that are 1-2 yrs old, it doesn't stay in turbo mode very long, maybe a couple of minutes at most. This despite measuring 1.45v and a capacity around 1800-1900 mAh (measured on a DMM and using an Maha MH-C9000 charger). I suspect it's due to the amps it must be pulling to drive the XML LED and the voltage must be sagging very low and not enough to drive the LED. :shrug: On my new eneloops, there doesn't seem to be any issues... although I have to question whether the runtime on turbo of 1.5hrs is accurate.
Also, I have both the stock bezel and the reflector and, much to my surprise, the reflector doesn't quite work as well as I thought. I'm so used to the wide beam of the ZL lights that I tend to turn my head too much when I'm using the light. Not sure if others have the same experience (I also picked up a ZL H51W and have the same issue now... I turn my head too much to get the hotspot on the subject I'm illuminating).
Lastly, my light included the magnet but, to my surprise, I couldn't screw it into the hole on the other end of the light. Upon closer inspection, the hole did not have any threads! :sick2:
Overall, I'm still happy with it when I run it with new eneloops and I guess I can live without the magnet option.
I do want to add my two lumens here about the Spark SD52 as I thought this 2xAA light with an NW XML LED would be the ultimate headlamp.
Strange, the memory works fine on mine and with pretty much all of my AA batteries.
Somewhat of a disappointment... when I use my slightly older AA batteries that are 1-2 yrs old, it doesn't stay in turbo mode very long, maybe a couple of minutes at most. This despite measuring 1.45v and a capacity around 1800-1900 mAh (measured on a DMM and using an Maha MH-C9000 charger). I suspect it's due to the amps it must be pulling to drive the XML LED and the voltage must be sagging very low and not enough to drive the LED. :shrug: On my new eneloops, there doesn't seem to be any issues... although I have to question whether the runtime on turbo of 1.5hrs is accurate.
Also, I have both the stock bezel and the reflector and, much to my surprise, the reflector doesn't quite work as well as I thought. I'm so used to the wide beam of the ZL lights that I tend to turn my head too much when I'm using the light. Not sure if others have the same experience (I also picked up a ZL H51W and have the same issue now... I turn my head too much to get the hotspot on the subject I'm illuminating).
Lastly, my light included the magnet but, to my surprise, I couldn't screw it into the hole on the other end of the light. Upon closer inspection, the hole did not have any threads! :sick2:
Overall, I'm still happy with it when I run it with new eneloops and I guess I can live without the magnet option.
Last edited:
Thanks Bolster, a big help. I gather most of your work is carpentry and plumbing, with an emphasis on remodeling?
Well I'm sold on wide beams of some type. So comparing using 2 501's as you do getting 30 lumens at 80 degrees with the Spark at 70 lumens and 115 degrees how would you say the visibility at say 3 feet on an object is? I.e, you've got more lumens but spread out a lot more. Because the two 501's will go 19 hours wheras the spark only 7.5 hours. And weights about the same. I'm guessing that since you like the Spark that it in fact an effective lux increase and worth the battery loss to you. Going from 80 to 115 degrees is a 44% increase but jumping from 30 to 70 lumens is a 133% increase if the math means anything, which maybe it doesn't, so thought I'd ask. Seems like a step between 70 and 12 would be perfect.
Have you also experienced what Spinkid did with no step down when the batteries are low?
I gather from your led color pictures bottoming all your posts that you prefer High Cri, but I previously thought of this as an aesthetic thing important to artists and photographers. Do you think high cri adds to perception of detail and that it is more important then amount of lumens? I don't get why it practically matters what color something looks like. No CRi specs for these Sparks unfortuanely, but then the Zebras are scant in that also. Regarding the separate subject of color, I guess, from your choices in each brand you feel more warmth is worth sacrificing for. Is this strictly a matter of comfort, or something else.?
Will apply the principles learned here to looking at the 502, and I'm still interested in the 51f, cause it has a 80-90 degreer like 501, if more centered. Need to look around forum more and see if you've tried the 502 since writig this review and whatja thought.
Sorry for all the questions. Wearing out the question mark key. I pray not you. Just trying to catch up, starting at zero.
Absolutely stupendous review!
Well I'm sold on wide beams of some type. So comparing using 2 501's as you do getting 30 lumens at 80 degrees with the Spark at 70 lumens and 115 degrees how would you say the visibility at say 3 feet on an object is? I.e, you've got more lumens but spread out a lot more. Because the two 501's will go 19 hours wheras the spark only 7.5 hours. And weights about the same. I'm guessing that since you like the Spark that it in fact an effective lux increase and worth the battery loss to you. Going from 80 to 115 degrees is a 44% increase but jumping from 30 to 70 lumens is a 133% increase if the math means anything, which maybe it doesn't, so thought I'd ask. Seems like a step between 70 and 12 would be perfect.
Have you also experienced what Spinkid did with no step down when the batteries are low?
I gather from your led color pictures bottoming all your posts that you prefer High Cri, but I previously thought of this as an aesthetic thing important to artists and photographers. Do you think high cri adds to perception of detail and that it is more important then amount of lumens? I don't get why it practically matters what color something looks like. No CRi specs for these Sparks unfortuanely, but then the Zebras are scant in that also. Regarding the separate subject of color, I guess, from your choices in each brand you feel more warmth is worth sacrificing for. Is this strictly a matter of comfort, or something else.?
Will apply the principles learned here to looking at the 502, and I'm still interested in the 51f, cause it has a 80-90 degreer like 501, if more centered. Need to look around forum more and see if you've tried the 502 since writig this review and whatja thought.
Sorry for all the questions. Wearing out the question mark key. I pray not you. Just trying to catch up, starting at zero.
Absolutely stupendous review!
Last edited:
No threads!, RGB. what a bummer. Curious why you didn't ask for an exchange? or maybe you did and they refused. hard to believe that though. It's also curious why you did not have have the memory and start problems on eneloops that were mentioned. Definately some things to like over the zebra and some not.
Bolster
Flashlight Enthusiast
Artists, photographers...and electricians (is that wire brown or dark blue or black)? Also high CRI is useful for spotting efflorescence (crystallized salt left behind from water leaks) which can be subtle and difficult to spot even with an incan. So for my work I'd be happy to give up lumens for high CRI, which the Spark SD52NW is most decidedly not. (Wish it were.) When I have color critical tasks, on goes the H502c.
Warm tint is a separate issue, and yes, I vastly prefer a warm tint when working in spooky unpleasant places. It seems to have a large psychological effect for me. I won't crawl down there with a cool light, but with a warm light, for some reason I'll do it and be reasonably cheerful. I can't explain it beyond saying it's entirely psychological. In this respect the SD52NW is, once again, neutral. Neither cool nor warm.
I would love to transplant the H502c's emitter into the SD52NW, but obviously the SD52NW is very useable as is. Would I prefer to use TWO H502c's to a single SD52NW? I believe I would. But I don't own two H502c's.
Last edited:
beast1210
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2009
- Messages
- 92
Here is my .02
Bolster
Flashlight Enthusiast
Interesting, thanks for posting! Only the best reviews have banjo music!!
About the "bump makes it turn off" issue, given that it seems to occur in the vertical orientation, is it possibly the battery springs flexing enough to allow the battery to break contact momentarily? So perhaps your second light has stiffer springs? Of course, if that were the reason, you'd expect the "bump off" issue in all modes, not just turbo...
About the "bump makes it turn off" issue, given that it seems to occur in the vertical orientation, is it possibly the battery springs flexing enough to allow the battery to break contact momentarily? So perhaps your second light has stiffer springs? Of course, if that were the reason, you'd expect the "bump off" issue in all modes, not just turbo...
Last edited:
beast1210
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2009
- Messages
- 92
My thoughts as well, the second light will do it just as easy on standard AA, but when using the higher voltage 14500, almost no issue. Strange
TSellers
Newly Enlightened
Just an update to the excellent video review posted above. I have been using 2 LiFePO4 AA cells in series in my SD52 and it is now my preferred configuration for this model as I get about 1 3/4 hrs on max. I got about 55 min using just one with a dummy cell. As the operating range of the light goes up to 7.6v, there should be not problem to also use 2 LiCo 14500 cells either.
atlr
Newly Enlightened
A Cree XM-L2 90-CRI White 3000K would be nice. About $4.60 a piece when purchased (cough) 1,000 at a time.
http://www.digikey.com/product-deta...000US60E7/XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60E7-ND/3778357
Anyone know of a reseller in the USA that sells these by the piece?
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Need a switch for 4D maglite, D prefix
- Latest: lumen aeternum
