Spark SD52 Mini Review

[atlr]

Anyone know the color temperature of the NW compared to the CW?

Looking at the Cree datasheet, the XM-L T6 Cool White is available in the range of 5700K to 6200K with 65 CTI and the XM-L T5 Neutral White is available in the range of 4000K to 5000K with 75 CRI.
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C... Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXMBL.pdf

 

[atlr]

I would love to transplant the H502c's emitter into the SD52NW, but obviously the SD52NW is very useable as is. Would I prefer to use TWO H502c's to a single SD52NW? I believe I would. But I don't own two H502c's.

Here is my guess at what the lumens output by a Warm White Cree XM-L2 90 CRI in a Spark SD52 could be:

Spark SD52 w/ 2 AA NiMH	Cree XM-L 75 CRI	Cree XM-L2 90 CRI
Hours	lm	lm
1.5	280	220
1.9	200	160
7	70	60
43	12	10

 

[Alt_F4]

My simple mod to SD52 to improve the performance of standard reflector.

 

[Knight_Light]

My simple mod to SD52 to improve the performance of standard reflector.

I am assuming most people know what you did by coloring the reflector. What would be interesting is to see the results and how much of an improvement it really is as well as the process that you utilize to achieve your results. In other words can you quantify the improvement as well as document the methodology utilized to achieve the improvement.

 

[TSellers]

I was kind of wondering as well what had been done and guessed it was painting the reflector. As I run all the SD series Spark's it would be good to know what kind of improvement to expect from this MOD.

Since the last lpost I have run my SD52 with one 4.2v 14500 Li-Ion cell and a dummy cell. As I have noticed you don't really get any "Super" mode with NiMh cells, I now never run my SD52 with anything other than 2 LiFePO4 cells or 1 Li-Ion cell with a dummy cell. For someone looking for improved output that would be the first and most important change you could make.

 

[Alt_F4]

English is not my language, but i could try to explain.

I don't have a scientific method to measure the improvement of the amount of light emitted, but I can do some simple considerations.




(at med&max mode it is blinding)

And this is a wall beamshot (about 30-40 cm from the wall) , as you can see now there is a slightly hot spot ( strange colors are probably caused by my camera ).



In the real usage you can't really notice the hot spot, but at my eyes there is a little improvement of the amount of light emitted.

 

[Knight_Light]

I have run my SD52 with one 4.2v 14500 Li-Ion cell and a dummy cell. As I have noticed you don't really get any "Super" mode with NiMh cells, I now never run my SD52 with anything other than 2 LiFePO4 cells or 1 Li-Ion cell with a dummy cell. For someone looking for improved output that would be the first and most important change you could make.

Which set up do you prefer and why? What are your estimated output levels on low, medium 1, and medium 2? What are your runtimes on those levels? The reason I ask is because for me the most utilized mode is the 80 lm. It's almost perfect but I crave a little bit more. Anything over 120 lm would probably be overkill. That is the reason I am asking these questions is that I am wondering if I can achieve the output levels I desire with a different battery chemistry.

 

[Knight_Light]

And this is a wall beamshot (about 30-40 cm from the wall) , as you can see now there is a slightly hot spot ( strange colors are probably caused by my camera ).



In the real usage you can't really notice the hot spot, but at my eyes there is a little improvement of the amount of light emitted.

First of all let me start by saying thank you for this information. The fact that you now have a small hotspot would be a definite dealbreaker for me. One of the things I really love about this light is that it has no hotspot whatsoever unless you utilize the optional reflector in which case it is tolerable because you are operating with different goals in mind.

 

[Alt_F4]

First of all let me start by saying thank you for this information. The fact that you now have a small hotspot would be a definite dealbreaker for me. One of the things I really love about this light is that it has no hotspot whatsoever unless you utilize the optional reflector in which case it is tolerable because you are operating with different goals in mind.

for me it's the opposite. I don't like total flood and the optional reflector is too much focused. In this way i have a good balance.

 

[Knight_Light]

for me it's the opposite. I don't like total flood and the optional reflector is too much focused. In this way i have a good balance.

It's all about personal preferences.

 

[TSellers]

Re: Spark SD52- Beamshots from Altitude

Caption: "Notice here how the SD52 is not as bright as the previous spot picture because it used NiMh cells for this shot. 2 AA NiMh cells have only 2.4v nominal, whereas the driver circuit requires >3v to develop 280 lumens for this light. 1 LiFePO4 cell gives 3.2v and you can use 2 of them to get 6.4v and run times of 1:45hrs."

Caption: "The SD52 uses AA cells, but you need to use the LiFePO4 AA cells, or 1 14550 Li-Ion to get turbo mode, NiMh does not give you maximum lumens."

(Images Linked with full Permission and rights).

 

[Trevtrain]

Replacing the emitter?

Is anyone who owns one of these and has taken the bezel off able to offer an opinion about how easy it would be to replace the emitter with the XM-L2 CRI 90 mentioned in post #122.


Is there a star under that (now painted white) "reflector"? Can the reflector be removed to get at it?
Ideally I'd be looking for a simple(ish) retrofit as anything involving a reflow would be out of the question.
Edit: DOH! Just saw video. Can anyone tell me what diameter is the star?

The lack of step-down/abrupt cutoff is disappointing on its own, but when combined with lack of a high CRI option this light is really a no-go for me I think. High CRI in a headlamp makes perfect sense for reasons already posted in this thread.

 

[atlr]

Re: Replacing the emitter?

Can anyone tell me what diameter is the star?

I have an SD-6 that I think has the same emitter and star/MCPCB as the SD52. The MCPCB on the SD6 is 11.5 mm. I considered baking my own about a month ago and only got as far as searching for parts.

11.5mm MCPCB source https://illuminationsupply.com/115mm-xml-mcpcb-p-209.html#.UYsy8LWG18E

Looking at the Cree XML binning sheet (XLampXMBL.pdf), the XM-L2 with a CRI of 90+, the coolest CCT and the highest luminous flux has the flux code S6 and CCT of 3000 K. The order code is XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60Z7. This one is hard to find for ordering a quantity of 1. Mouser is selling single units
Here are links to keep an eye on availability.
potential XML2 S6 aka XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60Z7 sources
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectroni...usfj?Keyword=XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60Z7&FS=True
http://octopart.com/parts/search?q=XMLBWT-00-0000-000US60Z7

Take a look at messages from Thatspec in this thread for an account of assembling and swapping a MCPCB and LED.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?323342-Spark-SD6&p=4135882&viewfull=1#post4135882

Like you, I would rather find an already assembled 11.5 mm MCPCB with this LED. I sent a note to Spark to express my interest in a high CRI LED option, [email protected].

 

[TSellers]

Re: Replacing the emitter?

This all makes me think that it would be great if the Spark's were manufactured in such a way you could upgrade or swap out the drivers and emitters easily. I've accidently unscrewed the end cap with the driver in it a couple of times so it shouldn't be all that hard. Would be neat if you could have some different end caps with different drivers that you could change in and out as required. And as Spark already has the screw-in bezel, perhaps they could make a similar arrangement where the emitter of your choice screws in with the bezel. While it may burn a hole in their forehead, some might want the ability to swap the driver and run an XM-L2 at 2.8A for example.

Otherwise if I want a 3000K high CRI light I'd probably go the easy route and just get a cheap DIY host, driver, and emitter on a star, and assemble them from scratch.

 

[Trevtrain]

Re: Replacing the emitter?

@altr
Thanks for the links and info - certainly some more interesting reading there.

@TSellers
Your ideas are novel, but I really don't envisage too many manufacturers wanting to provide that level of customisation. Most of what you describe falls strictly within the category of "modding" and would naturally void any warranties. Still, we can dream I suppose...

As to your comments about "going the easy route" with a "cheap DIY host" - perhaps you know something I don't?

• I've yet to see a headlamp host.
• I've yet to see a 2xAA side-by-side host of any kind.
• Good drivers supporting 2xAA seem to be exceedingly rare.

If you can point me at any of these I would be grateful.

 

[TSellers]

Re: Replacing the emitter?

I've yet to see a headlamp host.
I've yet to see a 2xAA side-by-side host of any kind.
Good drivers supporting 2xAA seem to be exceedingly rare.

Correct on all. I should have been more specific and said, "If I wanted to achieve those beam characteristics". Also for the poster that didn't want to have to reflow, the only XM-L2 on a star that I noticed so far was more than double in the tint range value, so my alternative would still be problematic. And the last point is a good one, as perhaps the drivers for the SD52 might be judged to not be all that great in light of the fact you need to use something that will give a higher voltage if you want full lumens on burst mode.

 

[grimpanda]

Re: Replacing the emitter?

TSellers,

Can you give any tips on removing the driver-end cap? I have an SD73 that I suspect has some corrosion from some bad/leaky batteries, and the end cap doesn't want to budge by hand. I'm reluctant to take the vice-grips to it without knowing if it is normal or reverse thread (assuming it IS threaded?)

Thanks.

This all makes me think that it would be great if the Spark's were manufactured in such a way you could upgrade or swap out the drivers and emitters easily. I've accidently unscrewed the end cap with the driver in it a couple of times so it shouldn't be all that hard. Would be neat if you could have some different end caps with different drivers that you could change in and out as required. And as Spark already has the screw-in bezel, perhaps they could make a similar arrangement where the emitter of your choice screws in with the bezel. While it may burn a hole in their forehead, some might want the ability to swap the driver and run an XM-L2 at 2.8A for example.

Otherwise if I want a 3000K high CRI light I'd probably go the easy route and just get a cheap DIY host, driver, and emitter on a star, and assemble them from scratch.