Sunwayman V11R (XM-L, 1xR/CR123A, 1xAA/14500) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOT+

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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A PITA if you don't have the right tools. If you do have the right tools to crack it, it's a breeze and will always be cracked for future touch ups.
 

apisdorf

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Can you tell me what the right tools are? I am considering getting two strap wrenches to try to not mar the finish but if there's something better, I'd like to know. Thanks!
 

louie

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Can you tell me what the right tools are? I am considering getting two strap wrenches to try to not mar the finish but if there's something better, I'd like to know. Thanks!
My general method to undo light parts is to use ordinary rubber strap wrenches, a couple of sets so I have 2 small, 2 large, or a combination available. Also a soft cover tubing vise (AKA a bicycle workstand clamp), an electric hot air gun, and some bits of rubber strap from a broken strap wrench. V11Rs I've seen are not hard to undo, so I try just strap wrenches first. If that fails, I wrap the part in some extra rubber strap and clamp it into the vise, then try a strap wrench. If that fails, the next step is to heat the part until "smoking hot" as Loctite weakens at 450F. According to Loctite specs, boiling a part in water should not have high enough temperature to have an effect. 450F can damage internal plastic parts, harden grease and melt plastic lenses, reflectors, and solder, so caution is advised. If the manufacturer did not use Loctite (used epoxy or something), heat won't have any effect. Often, quite a bit of torque must be used to loosen a head. Often the light slips in the vise, and/or the straps slip, and I just retighten and keep yanking. I try to do this with the battery tube installed in hopes that it will be harder to crush.

V11Rs have sloppy Loctite that should be scraped off; I use a dental pick, mini screwdrivers, toothbrush, etc. When reassembling with Loctite, note that it does not work on aluminum, anodized aluminum, and other non-ferrous metals, so you have to use an activator.
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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One of the machinists here on CPF made me a special set of wrenches to crack the V10R heads. They fit over the head parts and can be tightened down with a bolt to lock them in place. Then it's just a matter of brute force.

Prior to that I used the strap wrenches, leather straps, heat, etc. It worked but it was really hard and tedious and sometimes left marks.
 

apisdorf

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Thank you both for the insights. I'll start with the strap wrenches and see how it goes. By the way the light with the issue is a V11R Ti in case that changes any of your advice.
 

louie

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Thank you both for the insights. I'll start with the strap wrenches and see how it goes. By the way the light with the issue is a V11R Ti in case that changes any of your advice.

A tubing vise, or V-blocks in a vise, with rubber padding, helps tremendously in conjunction with the strap wrenches. I doubt I could get many lights apart without the vise, and just strap wrenches.
 
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recDNA

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A PITA if you don't have the right tools. If you do have the right tools to crack it, it's a breeze and will always be cracked for future touch ups.
The right tools AND the knowledge and you have more than 99.9% of members here and 100% more than I do! LOL
Next time you do one it would be cool if you get a chance to video it to youtube.
 

recDNA

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One of the machinists here on CPF made me a special set of wrenches to crack the V10R heads. They fit over the head parts and can be tightened down with a bolt to lock them in place. Then it's just a matter of brute force.

Prior to that I used the strap wrenches, leather straps, heat, etc. It worked but it was really hard and tedious and sometimes left marks.
Oh god I'm totally out of luck then. I lack brute strength as well!
 

gunga

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Note. I have had great success using v-jaw slip joint pliers (by Irwin) with pieces of strap wrench. Very effective on many lights including sunwayman.
 

louie

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Where does one get the helicoil grease?
Micro-tools.com has many lens repair greases, but I can't tell which one is best for a given purpose. Also, there are comments that Micro-tools' prices are too high and you can try eBay etc.

I took a guess and bought Nyogel 767A from them and find it to my liking for these rings, but pretty stiff. It also worked great in an old turntable cueing device. Ordinary greases don't have the sticky damping action.

The #1500 helical grease is here:

http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-HG-1500/Helical-Grease-1500-15ml.aspx

$32.52USD for 15ml!
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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I think that's the same helical grease that I got, but I got it from Amazon for a similar price. The cost has paid for itself since I've probably redone about 30-40 V10Rs if not more between mods and upgrades. I also used it on the HDS Rotary tailcap to tighten it up a bit. There's still enough for a lifetime supply, probably, but I'm trying to find other uses for it.
 

apisdorf

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Okay; I managed to crack the loctite -- and I didn't even scratch the finish. All with the two strap wrenches that were delivered 30 minutes ago. I must be stronger than I thought. Now I just have to wait for the #1500 helical grease I ordered from Japan on eBay ($25). :-(
 

recDNA

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It's funny - my v11r ring is not that loose but when I pull it from my pocket it has always moved from the mid-way point I leave it on to max. What the heck makes it turn? It never turns down to min. Always max. Weird.
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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It's funny - my v11r ring is not that loose but when I pull it from my pocket it has always moved from the mid-way point I leave it on to max. What the heck makes it turn? It never turns down to min. Always max. Weird.

I know this sounds odd - but put it in the other pocket clipped the same way and see if it turns in the other direction. My thought is that your walking/rubbing motion is causing the turn.
 

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