ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
Flashlight Enthusiast
A PITA if you don't have the right tools. If you do have the right tools to crack it, it's a breeze and will always be cracked for future touch ups.
My general method to undo light parts is to use ordinary rubber strap wrenches, a couple of sets so I have 2 small, 2 large, or a combination available. Also a soft cover tubing vise (AKA a bicycle workstand clamp), an electric hot air gun, and some bits of rubber strap from a broken strap wrench. V11Rs I've seen are not hard to undo, so I try just strap wrenches first. If that fails, I wrap the part in some extra rubber strap and clamp it into the vise, then try a strap wrench. If that fails, the next step is to heat the part until "smoking hot" as Loctite weakens at 450F. According to Loctite specs, boiling a part in water should not have high enough temperature to have an effect. 450F can damage internal plastic parts, harden grease and melt plastic lenses, reflectors, and solder, so caution is advised. If the manufacturer did not use Loctite (used epoxy or something), heat won't have any effect. Often, quite a bit of torque must be used to loosen a head. Often the light slips in the vise, and/or the straps slip, and I just retighten and keep yanking. I try to do this with the battery tube installed in hopes that it will be harder to crush.Can you tell me what the right tools are? I am considering getting two strap wrenches to try to not mar the finish but if there's something better, I'd like to know. Thanks!
Thank you both for the insights. I'll start with the strap wrenches and see how it goes. By the way the light with the issue is a V11R Ti in case that changes any of your advice.
The right tools AND the knowledge and you have more than 99.9% of members here and 100% more than I do! LOLA PITA if you don't have the right tools. If you do have the right tools to crack it, it's a breeze and will always be cracked for future touch ups.
Oh god I'm totally out of luck then. I lack brute strength as well!One of the machinists here on CPF made me a special set of wrenches to crack the V10R heads. They fit over the head parts and can be tightened down with a bolt to lock them in place. Then it's just a matter of brute force.
Prior to that I used the strap wrenches, leather straps, heat, etc. It worked but it was really hard and tedious and sometimes left marks.
Micro-tools.com has many lens repair greases, but I can't tell which one is best for a given purpose. Also, there are comments that Micro-tools' prices are too high and you can try eBay etc.Where does one get the helicoil grease?
It's funny - my v11r ring is not that loose but when I pull it from my pocket it has always moved from the mid-way point I leave it on to max. What the heck makes it turn? It never turns down to min. Always max. Weird.
Nyogel 760G isn't a damping grease, and will give minimal resistance in the friction ring.Woah. Would nyogel 760 work?