Hoorah, a calorie-free easter egg! (mustn't tell the wife, she'd accuse me of heresy...)
I'll have a word with DC, but I suspect that we're comparing apples to pears here (do all U2by2s take 18650s?). I hasten to add that I'm in no hurry to part with my light..........
I don't know how long the Jtice build has been going, but I can confirm that you have a while to go before you hit the gestation period of the Alpinator!
What I can also confirm is that you don't need to worry about missing out on new emitters as Scott said, the above build went through two...
I'll have a go at a couple of these, Steve has already provided my answers or better to the rest.
7) Yellow is always going to be the best colour for overall high visibility, but I think that is to do with the way it contrasts and clashes with the background rather than visual acuity...
The brown tint on lenses like the Drivers isn't designed to provide accurate colour rendition. It concentrates on filtering out the blue end of the spectrum, which eases the tiring effect of glare without needing too dark a tint (so you can wear them in fog). Coincidentally it also makes greens...
Now there's a thing. I've been using Serengeti Drivers for years and it never occured to me to try shining a torch through them!
More seriously, isn't the reason that these brown tints are so good for driving that they filter out the shorter wavelength end of the spectrum?
As I understand it...
OK, I've had this light "in service" for a few months now so it's about time I added some comments. I hope they're of some use to anyone considering this or a similar build.
Build - pretty well faultless. The Leef parts are a match to the Surefire head for machining and finish. The chequering...
I've only just found this thread and the information on relative colour rendition is highly informative. Definitely one to follow.
To add my own 2p worth;
A few months ago I started using a pretty powerful led light made for me by Milkyspit (550 emitter lumens, based on manufacturer's specs)...
Wow, and I was impressed when you crammed 4 emitters into one of those heads!
Better still the retaining ring doesn't even overlap the dinky little reflectors.
I thought you had a standing order set up already.....:whistle:
To save Scott a bit of time here's what I gathered from my conversation with him;
The "Alpinator" :rock:does not use an M-series board, the electronics are something else that Scott devised :bow:. This setup matches the power source (2x LiIon cells) to the emitters. I believe that the emitters...
I was quite fond of "Mr Clawson's Marvellous Electronic Portable Lighting Device (pat. pending)", but I suppose yours is pithier! (sounds a little BMWish actually)
Why am I always the last one to hear about these things???
My version of the story is pretty much the same as Scott's, except he seems to have left out the bits about me requesting things he didn't know were possible/didn't yet have the technology for.... and how he kept agreeing to give it a...
I think you need to ask Scott (milkyspit) about this. It would be safer to get him to include something like this in the original build rather than mess with it later and then find out it doesn't work.
It's always nice to have a FLR writeup on a light to compare it against the rest of the field.
One thing I noticed when I received my first 2 Fenix lights recently (L2D CE & P3D) - they have a sticker on the back of the box listing their features, one of these is "Water-resistant...
Just a guess here based on the comments above and the problem that you've described;
Pila lights use the body tube as part of the circuit, contact is made by the threads on the switch and the outer spring on the lamp assembly??
I know that Wolf Eyes lights are unusual in that they have a...