Recent content by frenzee

  1. frenzee

    More Fade tests on 5mm and medium power LEDs

    Thanks for the post. Have you done any testing with these 100mA 5mm's: http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=led.az.0.5W or the Cree 50mA 5mm's, particularly the colored ones?
  2. frenzee

    Simple LEDs in series question

    No, that is not correct, however as "yellow' suggested, each string needs to have it's own resistor to balance the current in each circuit. Furthermore, it would be a good idea to connect the LED-to-LED connection points (as in a matrix) to further balance out the current distribution and to...
  3. frenzee

    Strange LED behaviour!

    Just an observation: I assume you meant to say two parallel circuits of 8 series LEDs each, right? 8 parallel LEDs will be almost impossible to correctly and uniformly drive. Assuming the former, unless you have shunt resistors of significant value in both circuits, it would still be nearly...
  4. frenzee

    Rebel at Future Electronics stocking policy

    As of this morning, Future is showing quantity 1 in stock for high-bin R, G & B. Did you try ordering online?
  5. frenzee

    how to drive 5mm LEDs?

    National's LM5000 (datasheet) is a generic switch mode boost regulator and can drive up to 20 white or 30 red 5mms from a 12V supply, so maybe you could use two of these.
  6. frenzee

    Rebel 4X, no, 6X! Feel the power!

    Here's my 2 cents: Your finger is definitely not a good heat sensor. A rebel or Cree running at 1 amp will easily burn your finger if you put it right on the dome, no matter what the jT. There is almost 1W of energy coming out of a area the size of a match head. An LED is probably not the...
  7. frenzee

    The Ultimate MC-E Mounting Solution?

    I get .24C/W, per the following, assuming running the MC-E at 3W, but this is just theory IMO. The theoretical thermal resistance is negligible compared to the boundary layer thermal resistance (article): q = k A dT / s (link) q = heat transferred per unit time (W) = 3 W k = thermal...
  8. frenzee

    The Ultimate MC-E Mounting Solution?

    I have a high level of confidence that this approach will work. I did a prototype using 1/64" single-sided fiberglass PCB a while back, but I had way too many emitters on a single board and they were only 2mm in diameter, so it was getting very difficult to keep all the slugs/disk in place...
  9. frenzee

    The Ultimate MC-E Mounting Solution?

    Excellent post, VanIsleDSM. I suggested this same exact process about a year ago to another member, but with a couple of slight variations: First, I'd highly recommend you solder it. It will make a HUGE difference in heat transfer. The numbers for AS may look good on paper, but boundary...
  10. frenzee

    Strange LED behaviour!

    I have seen this same exact behavior in rebels, except I was using a voltage and current regulated power supply . I am not talking about dimming down to milliamp range where Vf differences can cause an individual emitter to sink below the glow range, but rather dimming from say 350mA to 300mA...
  11. frenzee

    Heatsinking LED Emitters (No Star)

    I think what you are describing is the plated thru hole concept which works OK but not very well and it sounds much easier to do than to actually make it for the typical DIYer. Have you tried using and off-the-shelf Cree or Luxeon bare star? The dimensions are pretty close so it might work...
  12. frenzee

    That sinking Feeling.....

    Tom, I did something very similar except slightly smaller and for a tail-light using 5 LuxIII's at 1A (about 10W). From what I can see, I'm afraid without forced cooling you don't have anywhere near enough cooling with your setup. Keep in mind at 1A you are trying to dissipate the better part...
  13. frenzee

    Soldering to aluminum

    I've used this (aluminum version): http://www.solder-it.com/solderpaste.asp? Works pretty well.
  14. frenzee

    adhesive needed

    In a previous thread some folks recommended this. I haven't personally used it though.

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