Aircraft mechanic needs a new light!

[Bedwards]

Hey guys! First time posting on the forum, but I've been lurking around on here for a while. I am an aircraft mechanic, and unfortunately yesterday, my 4 year old Fenix E25 flashlight started to flicker and ended up dying on me. So it's time for something new! I've been out of the loop on advancements in the flashlight world for quite some time, and I am a bit overwhelmed when I start comparing models and digging deeper into something that will suit my needs. I need a light that won't be excessively bright, and allows me to work in tight, confined spaces (my Fenix on high was too bright for up-close applications). However, having the option of higher brightness settings would be nice for when I'm doing exterior inspections from a distance. I don't want to go any bigger than the size of my Fenix. I have filled out the checklist below to the best of my ability, and would greatly appreciate any advice on helping me pick a new light!

Thank you in advance!

==================Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__X__This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
____Up to $50.
__X__Up to $100.
____Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
____Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

____I am not sure, please help me decide.
__X__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
____I want a self-contained headlamp.
____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
__X__TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
__X__SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
____MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
____I don't know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

__X__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

__X__I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

__X__I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
____I don't know/I need more information on power sources.


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

__X__I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
__X__I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
__X__I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
__X__I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

__X__SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

____All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
__X__Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
__X__Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
__X__Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
__X__Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
__X__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
__X__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
__X__90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
__X__3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
__X__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
__X__I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
__X__I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
__X__I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
__X__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
__X__I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
__X__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
__X__I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ---...--- emergency pattern)
____I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
__X__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
__X__Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.


15) Water resistance
____None needed
____IPX4 (Splash resistant)
__X__IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
____IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)


16) Storage conditions
____In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
__X__Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
____Other_________________________________________ ____


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
__X__Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
__X__Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments

 

[Poppy]

For an AA light, I would pick an angle headed Zebralight.
Use it as a headlamp when I want to use two hands, (like in most of the time I an doing anything mechanical), or lie it on its side or tail stand it. You can pick your desired beam profile, and LED.

I'd throw a cheap COB light in my bag/tool box too. They are good for working in tight quarters, and as bykfixer once said, they are great under the sink lights, and can almost see around corners. Larry, or Lucy, or LuxPro are examples.

 

[Bedwards]

For an AA light, I would pick an angle headed Zebralight.
Use it as a headlamp when I want to use two hands, (like in most of the time I an doing anything mechanical), or lie it on its side or tail stand it. You can pick your desired beam profile, and LED.

I'd throw a cheap COB light in my bag/tool box too. They are good for working in tight quarters, and as bykfixer once said, they are great under the sink lights, and can almost see around corners. Larry, or Lucy, or LuxPro are examples.

Thanks you for your response!

I already have a headlamp which I use quite often. I am specifically looking for a replacement handheld flashlight, something like a penlight. I have heard a lot about the Preon 2, but it seems like it has problems with the switch. Any other good alternatives?

Thanks everyone.

 

[Timothybil]

Two lights to think about are the Lumintop Tool in either copper or titanium, or the IYP365 penlight, all with the Nichea emitter. The Nichea emitter gets you a 90+ CRI (Color Rendition Index, where natural afternoon sunlight is 100). This gives you better color rendition and sharper detail than the normally used CREE LEDs. If you just look at the lumens numbers, they don't seem to be that impressive, but remember that it takes four times the lumens to have the output appear to be doubled. Both the Tool and the IYP365 have ANSI F1 ranges of over 30m, and rated run times in the medium mode of several hours, which is the mode I would expect you to be using the most. The IYP365 is a penlight style, which would work well in a shirt or overall chest pocket. The Tool is in the more normal flashlight shape, and can be stored almost anywhere.
If you are not sure about either one of these models, I would suggest getting the IYP365 as a trial, since with some judicious shopping it can be found for less than $20. This would let you see if the output will be sufficient for you, and let you see the benefits of a 90+ CRI emitter.

Even if you decide not to get either of these, try to get a light that has a high CRI. I think you will see how much better the high CRI lets you make out more details with better color recognition. Let us know what you decide to purchase, and how well it works for you. That lets us know how well our recommendations met your needs, and will allow us to do a better job next time.

 

[Crazyeddiethefirst]

Have you checked out the Four Sevens Headlamp System? It can be used with the Atom (and you can but the Atom as a mule, or with a reflector). Numerous other lights can be used as well. I personally bought two headstraps, but
Removed the mounting bracket from the second one and installed it on the first; this allows me to use both a mule and a spot for the perfect light.good luck

 

[Bicycleflyer]

The mechanics at my airline seem to prefer the streamlight stinger rechargeable flashlight. You could always get another Fenix, but you will never get the best performance with alkalines. Go to the store of your choice and get NiMh batteries with a charger. Eneloops are a good choice.

 

[CobraMan]

Here are a few suggestions of lights I own that satisfy many of your wants:
1) Nitecore SRT6 (18650 or 2xCR123A) - Aluminum
2) Sunwayman C25C (18650 or 2xCR123A) - Titanium
3) Pelican 1920 (2xAAA) - Aluminum
4) Thrunite Ti4T (2xAAA) - Titanium
5) Nitecore MT06 (2xAAA) - Aluminum
6) Fenix E20 2015 Edition (2xAA) - Aluminum

There are many more viable options - the ones above all have variable output levels and put out a lot of light on the highest settings and different degrees of lowest. The SRT6 has infinite output adjustment via a rotating ring which is very nice so you can adjust to just what you need - it is a very robust/beefy light as well and might be heavier than you are looking for but will go super bright. All are within your price target of $100 or less if you shop around.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Tim

 

[Bedwards]

Two lights to think about are the Lumintop Tool in either copper or titanium, or the IYP365 penlight, all with the Nichea emitter. The Nichea emitter gets you a 90+ CRI (Color Rendition Index, where natural afternoon sunlight is 100). This gives you better color rendition and sharper detail than the normally used CREE LEDs. If you just look at the lumens numbers, they don't seem to be that impressive, but remember that it takes four times the lumens to have the output appear to be doubled. Both the Tool and the IYP365 have ANSI F1 ranges of over 30m, and rated run times in the medium mode of several hours, which is the mode I would expect you to be using the most. The IYP365 is a penlight style, which would work well in a shirt or overall chest pocket. The Tool is in the more normal flashlight shape, and can be stored almost anywhere.
If you are not sure about either one of these models, I would suggest getting the IYP365 as a trial, since with some judicious shopping it can be found for less than $20. This would let you see if the output will be sufficient for you, and let you see the benefits of a 90+ CRI emitter.

Even if you decide not to get either of these, try to get a light that has a high CRI. I think you will see how much better the high CRI lets you make out more details with better color recognition. Let us know what you decide to purchase, and how well it works for you. That lets us know how well our recommendations met your needs, and will allow us to do a better job next time.

Thank you for your suggestions! I definitely want something a little longer than the Lumintop Tool. The IYP365 looks like an awesome light, but I've heard it's very slippery. I deal with a lot of chemicals, oils etc. and I want something that is easy to grip.

I didn't know anything about CRI though, thank you for that information!

 

[Bedwards]

Have you checked out the Four Sevens Headlamp System? It can be used with the Atom (and you can but the Atom as a mule, or with a reflector). Numerous other lights can be used as well. I personally bought two headstraps, but
Removed the mounting bracket from the second one and installed it on the first; this allows me to use both a mule and a spot for the perfect light.good luck

Thank you for the response! I already own a headlamp, and I like it. The Atom is a bit too stubby for my liking.

 

[Timothybil]

Thank you for your suggestions! I definitely want something a little longer than the Lumintop Tool. The IYP365 looks like an awesome light, but I've heard it's very slippery. I deal with a lot of chemicals, oils etc. and I want something that is easy to grip.

I didn't know anything about CRI though, thank you for that information!

I think CRI would be the most important factor in making your decision. I didn't realize how much difference it made until I got my first high CRI light. Now I don't buy anything else.

I don't thing the IYP365 would be that slippery, but haven't tried using it with oily hands. There are several things you can do to increase friction:
- Wind several wide rubber bands around the barrel
- Wrap some of that stretchy sports tape around the barrel (a little more attractive than rubber bands and just as easy to take off.)
- Apply some shrink tubing to the shaft. This would be somewhat permanent since it would be hard to remove without scratching the surface. If you do this you might want to put a strip of plastic from something like a pop bottle inside the shrink tubing to give something to cut into if you decide to remove the tubing.
- I really don't like this option because there is not way back from it, but you could glue some very fine grit to the barrel, or rough the surface up with sandpaper.

Unless your shop rules don't allow it, I would get one of those safety breakaway lanyards so if the light did slip out of your hands it would be easy to retrieve. I know there are places where if you drop it, you aren't ever going to get it back out otherwise.

 

[Bedwards]

Thank you to everyone who responded to my thread! I really appreciate all the help. I think I'm going to buy 2 flashlights. One with a high CRI light like the IYP365 for up-close detailed inspections, and something brighter with more throw for inspections from a distance (eg. exterior stuff in the dark).

If anyone else has anymore suggestions, feel free to post them.

Thank you again.

 

[vadimax]

Thank you to everyone who responded to my thread! I really appreciate all the help. I think I'm going to buy 2 flashlights. One with a high CRI light like the IYP365 for up-close detailed inspections, and something brighter with more throw for inspections from a distance (eg. exterior stuff in the dark).

If anyone else has anymore suggestions, feel free to post them.

Thank you again.

There is a good (I guess) longer range high CRI solution: Eagletac TX30C2 with Nichia 219C. So your color perception will be good at all ranges But those might be problematic to buy: they are being sold out first.

 

[Chevy-SS]

If you want small light that you can keep in shirt pocket, then get the Preon 2. I have given away a bunch of these to doctors, machinists and auto mechanics, and they all LOVE that light! Of course, I have one for myself too. Amazing power for a 2*AAA light.

I gave a Preon 2 to the owner of a race engine machine shop (I'm a hot rodder) about 3 years ago. He called me a week later and had me order 4 more lights, and then he gave one to every employee in his shop. I saw him last week briefly and couldn't help but notice that the Preon 2 was still right there in his shirt pocket......

And oh by the way, the machine shop owner did have problem after a year or so, and he called me up. I told him to clean the contact surfaces inside the light, and problem solved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

 

[Bedwards]

Thanks for all the help guys. I ended up buying a Streamlight Stylus Pro (love the size, and it's great for up-close work, still might buy a Preon 2 as well though). I am also looking at the Fenix LD22 as more of an EDC light, and for exterior inspections etc. I have read that Ni-Mh batteries provide better runtimes, but I am confused looking at Fenix's website data on the LD22. The graph shows the alkaline batteries having longer runtimes. Is this a typo (see link below)? If I do go with the Ni-Mh batteries, I guess I should go with Eneloops. Which charger is recommended?

https://www.fenixlighting.com/product/ld22-fenix-flashlight/

Thanks!

 

[magellan]

Great list of possible lights. But I also especially like the SRT6. (I also have the SRT7).

Here are a few suggestions of lights I own that satisfy many of your wants:
1) Nitecore SRT6 (18650 or 2xCR123A) - Aluminum
2) Sunwayman C25C (18650 or 2xCR123A) - Titanium
3) Pelican 1920 (2xAAA) - Aluminum
4) Thrunite Ti4T (2xAAA) - Titanium
5) Nitecore MT06 (2xAAA) - Aluminum
6) Fenix E20 2015 Edition (2xAA) - Aluminum

There are many more viable options - the ones above all have variable output levels and put out a lot of light on the highest settings and different degrees of lowest. The SRT6 has infinite output adjustment via a rotating ring which is very nice so you can adjust to just what you need - it is a very robust/beefy light as well and might be heavier than you are looking for but will go super bright. All are within your price target of $100 or less if you shop around.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Tim

 

[Poppy]

Thanks for all the help guys. I ended up buying a Streamlight Stylus Pro (love the size, and it's great for up-close work, still might buy a Preon 2 as well though). I am also looking at the Fenix LD22 as more of an EDC light, and for exterior inspections etc. I have read that Ni-Mh batteries provide better runtimes, but I am confused looking at Fenix's website data on the LD22. The graph shows the alkaline batteries having longer runtimes. Is this a typo (see link below)? If I do go with the Ni-Mh batteries, I guess I should go with Eneloops. Which charger is recommended?

https://www.fenixlighting.com/product/ld22-fenix-flashlight/

Thanks!

.
Alkalines drop off their voltage very quickly compared to NiMH batteries
so, their outputs drop off just as quickly. When the LED outputs drop off, there is less demand on the battery, so the batteries last longer.

NiMH batteries, maintain their voltages longer, so the output of the LED is more constant, and higher for a longer period of time, but when the battery nears exhaustion, its voltage drops off rapidly.

See HKJ's battery comparisons for discharge curves, to see what I mean.

IMO NiMH is the way to go compared to alkalines. I can always top them off, and have fully charged batteries. With alkalines, I might be throwing away batteries that are still 50% charged, because of their diminished output. OR be suffering with less light than what I would prefer.

 

[CobraMan]

Thanks for the compliment magellan. I really like the SRT6 as well - if the SRT7 had been a single emitter I would have gone for that but I personally don't need multi-color lights.

Another suggestion as I was looking at some of my older lights, but might be tough to find, the Nitecore IFE1 (1xCR123A) or IFE2 (1x18650 or 2xCR123A) are both infinite level adjust and very compact and bright. Love both of these lights as well.

Cheers,
Tim

 

[MX421]

If you want small light that you can keep in shirt pocket, then get the Preon 2. I have given away a bunch of these to doctors, machinists and auto mechanics, and they all LOVE that light! Of course, I have one for myself too. Amazing power for a 2*AAA light.

I'd second the Preon 2 recommendation, great little light! Thrunite makes a good 2XAAA light as well.