ArcMania Super MJ LED 3mm upgrade for Maglight Solitaire Flashlight: any review?

Oddjob

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I tend to agree with LEDninja. For the cost of the bulb you might as well look into a Fenix E0 or E1 or other similar lights. I have an E0 on my key chain and it is very useful. Don't get me wrong, I like my Solitaire drop-in. The light is much better than the stock bulb but the head does not screw in all the way.
 

member 6142

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Re: ArcMania Super MJ LED 3mm upgrade for Solitaire

Oddjob said:
I tend to agree with LEDninja. For the cost of the bulb you might as well look into a Fenix E0 or E1 or other similar lights. I have an E0 on my key chain and it is very useful. Don't get me wrong, I like my Solitaire drop-in. The light is much better than the stock bulb but the head does not screw in all the way.

Ok. I've just ordered an E1.
Thanks folks
 
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member 6142

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@LEDNinja & Oddjob
Does E1 go into moon mode even with NiMh rechargeables?

Thanks
 

NoFair

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daberti said:
@LEDNinja & Oddjob
Does E1 go into moon mode even with NiMh rechargeables?

Thanks

Mine does. Usable light for quite a while...

It might not be healthy for a NiMH to be totally drained so it would be a good idea to swap batteries when it starts to go really dim.

Sverre
 

member 6142

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Oddjob said:
Unfortunaley I don't have an E1 but I agree with NoFair.

Yes, I do agree too.
My question was asked just because I do HATE regulated lights that go at full steam with recharg. batts till the last second, without telling you that batts are depleted.
 

John Phillips

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Re: ArcMania Super MJLED 3-mm upgrade for Mag-Lite Solitaire: any review?

After recently reading the very favourable reviews in the CandlePower Forum threads about the new Arcmania Super MJLED 3-mm for Mag-Lite® Solitaire®, I was sufficiently convinced it was well worth getting and so purchased one
sold.gif
from Lighthound http://www.lighthound.com
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2217

Their service and postage rates for international customers were great and it arrived a third of the way around the World in just over a week.

I've always run my Solitaire® on a Ni-MH cell because I dislike non-rechargeable cells. However, this had meant having to accept the dimmer, yellowish light that results from the lower cell voltage.
au.gif
I'm probably in the minority because even despite this I've still liked the torch and found it to be useful, especially for seeing in tight spaces when servicing electronic equipment.

I have to say this new drop-in LED for it is absolutely brilliant.
buttrock.gif
I'm thrilled with the improvement it has made, transforming the Solitaire® into an exceedingly more useful and desirable torch with a bright beam that remains white despite lower voltage of a Ni-MH cell.

The torch still retains its ability to focus the beam. Maximum focus is not quite as tight as with the original incandescent bulb, but not too far short of it. That's because the LED's die is slightly less of a point source of light than the tungsten filament. Nevertheless, its Lambertian emitting area is still tiny, a little under a millimetre in diameter, radiating over an angle of 180 degrees so that it utilizes the reflector and works well in candle mode too. Even when fully focused, the spill is bright and very useful.

The only slight disadvantage is that the head does not screw down quite as far when the torch is turned off. However, when the head is twisted to turn the torch on the LED is immediately at the focal point of the reflector (maximum focus), so unlike the incandescent bulb, it does not require a turn or so to maximally focus it. This should save wear and tear on the threads. When defocused to make a broader beam there is a welcome absence of a doughnut (again, unlike the incandescent bulb) until the head has been unscrewed so far that it can be removed.

Compared to a white Luxeon® LED it is bluer with an ever so slight lavender tint, especially in the spill, which I don't mind at all. I estimate its colour temperature is somewhere between 6500-8500 Kelvins.

Using a variable-voltage power supply I have measured its current consumption versus input voltage and calculated input power and effective resistance over the voltage range up to 1.6 V. Unfortunately I can't insert the graphs in this posting, but here is the data:



Voltage Current Power Effective Resistance Comments
0.08 0.000 0.000 ∞ Stops conducting
0.09 0.006 0.001 15.0
0.10 0.038 0.004 2.6
0.11 0.085 0.009 1.3 LED extinguishes as input voltage is being decreased
0.15 0.099 0.015 1.5
0.20 0.112 0.022 1.8
0.25 0.121 0.030 2.1
0.30 0.127 0.038 2.4
0.35 0.129 0.045 2.7
0.40 0.125 0.050 3.2
0.45 0.127 0.057 3.5
0.50 0.130 0.065 3.8
0.55 0.133 0.073 4.1 LED starts as input voltage is being increased
0.60 0.136 0.082 4.4
0.65 0.139 0.090 4.7
0.70 0.141 0.099 5.0
0.75 0.143 0.107 5.2
0.80 0.147 0.118 5.4
0.85 0.149 0.127 5.7
0.90 0.152 0.137 5.9
0.95 0.154 0.146 6.2
1.00 0.157 0.157 6.4
1.05 0.161 0.169 6.5
1.10 0.164 0.180 6.7
1.15 0.168 0.193 6.8
1.20 0.172 0.206 7.0
1.25 0.176 0.220 7.1
1.30 0.182 0.237 7.1
1.35 0.188 0.254 7.2
1.40 0.192 0.269 7.3
1.45 0.199 0.289 7.3
1.50 0.205 0.308 7.3
1.55 0.211 0.327 7.3
1.60 0.219 0.350 7.3

Increasing from 0 V, the LED doesn't light until about 0.55 V. Up to 1.20 V the lamp exhibits a rising effective resistance from about 4 to 7 Ohms, though not enough to prevent the current from rising. From 1.20 V to 1.40 V the lamp's effective resistance flattens, becoming a constant 7.3 Ohms from 1.40 V to 1.60 V.
Although I have read that the lamp can tolerate an absolute maximum input of about 1.8-1.9 V, I wasn't game to try this. The data can probably be extrapolated to predict the current draw and power consumption at that voltage.

Decreasing the voltage, the LED extinguishes when it gets down to 0.11 V! However, it is understandably very dim at this stage. Oddly, there is a slight hump in the current as the voltage passes from 0.40 V to 0.35 V.

The conclusion is that the switch-mode power supply in this lamp is not fully regulated: neither current nor power are constant. There is therefore a very slight difference in brightness (which is hardly noticeable) between a new non-rechargeable cell and a Ni-MH cell. The relatively flat discharge profile of a Ni-MH cell means that there is very little dimming as this sort of cell discharges, so light output is pretty constant at a current of about 180 mA (input power 235 mW). This compares with the original incandescent bulb (which had maybe 10 hours of use and the envelope was starting to darken on the inside) drawing 200 mA (260 mW) and a new incandescent bulb drawing 220 mA (285 mW). This LED lamp is producing far more light with only 82-90% of the power consumption!

With a fully charged 900-mAh (nominal) AAA Ni-MH cell it ran for 4 hours, 10 minutes (the cell is sixteen months old and may have lost come capacity). When it was exhausted the torch went into moonlight mode for about 1 minute then extinguished abruptly. Still, this would give adequate warning to put in a fresh, recharged cell.

Cheers,
John.
 

Per Arne

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Hi,

Does anybody know if this Drop-in LED could be used in a mini maglite 2xAAA Lithium or would it :poof: ??


PA
 

LEDninja

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Per Arne said:
Does anybody know if this Drop-in LED could be used in a mini maglite 2xAAA Lithium or would it :poof: ??
PA
I would not risk it.

The only drop ins with boost circuit that fit and work with the AAA minimag is:
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/terralux_tle-10.htm
http://lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1526
http://www.led-replacement.com/tle-20.html
There may not be much of a price difference shipped. Lighthound uses the more expensive GPM envelope. NiMH or alkalines. Brighter with fresh alkalines.
Tectite used to make a LT-2 but I can not find a dealer selling it.

The following raw LEDs will work with an AAA minimag if powered with lithiums or FRESH alkalines. You will have to drill out your reflector.
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_52_82&products_id=568
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=754
Installation instructions here. There is a beamshot photo showing the difference between the MJLED and SMJLED.
http://home.mchsi.com/~lambda_lights/smjled.htm
 

Crenshaw

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i know this is a really old thread, but i just got the smjled, and need to ask, has anyone tried to do anything about the head not being able to be screwed all the way down? i will be trying to sand the reflector down abit tomorrow..

Crenshaw
 

John Phillips

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I haven't tried trimming down the base of the reflector but I think it might help at least to make the head screw on a bit further. It should make the torch similar to how it was with the incandescent bulb in at least one aspect: Depending how much material you remove it will probably take a bit more of a twist to optimally focus the beam when it is turned on.

Do let us know how you get on, Crenshaw. It would be interesting to know whether it is practical to remove enough of the reflector's base to completely compensate for the additional thickness of the PCB housing. As I mentioned in my review, the Super MJLED seems to be fairly well focused immediately when the torch is first turned on, though the beam is not quite as tight as that achievable with the incandescent bulb. I have wondered whether removing even just a little from the base of the reflector could achieve a slightly tighter beam.

One thing about modifying the reflector like this is that it wouldn't switch off the torch if one ever went back to an incandescent bulb, but then, who would want to? :)

Cheers,
John.
 

gunga

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I sand the back of my reflector down so that is screws in a few extra mm. It still leaves a gap (1 mm) but allows quite a bit more focusing ability and does not allow the head to fall off quite so easily.

Removing the reflector requires a careful hand and a pretty good angled (and small) knife blade to bend the small tabs back.

I also use a diffusing film (satin finish scotch tape is cheap and works well) to smooth out the SMJ LED beam.

Make sure you bend the tabs back out a bit so the reflector locks in place when re-inserted. The end result is a nice little (somewhat) focusable light.
 

John Phillips

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I just took some physical measurements of the Solitaire with the original incandescent bulb in it and with the ArcMania Super MJ-LED 3-mm upgrade.


With original incandescent bulb
  • The head screws down to within about 0.6 mm from the body when then torch is turned off.
  • The head has to be screwed out approximately 1 turn to focus to as near a parallel beam as possible.
With ArcMania Super MJ-LED 3-mm upgrade
  • The head screws down to within about 2.4 mm from the body when the torch is turned off.
  • The beam is already as near to parallel as possible immediately when the torch is turned on.
To remove enough plastic from the back of the reflector to make the head screw right down as close to the body with the ArcMania Super MJ-LED as it does when the incandescent bulb is fitted would mean starting to chew into the reflector. As Gunga found, 1 mm clearance between the head and the body when the torch is turned off seems to be the practical minimum.

ArcMania has done his homework well setting the distance between the top of the metal housing for the PCB and the LED's die at 3 mm. This puts the die at the reflector's focal point when the unmodified base of the reflector is just touching the top of the PCB's metal housing, so the hot spot of the beam consists of practically parallel rays immediately when the torch is turned on. Screwing the head out further produces a divergent beam and so there is no provision with this set-up for a convergent beam. The latter might be useful for an intense hot spot when very close-up, assuming that the larger emitting area of the LED die compared to the incandescent filament would enable this. At distances greater than a few centimetres a convergent beam is arguably no advantage to a divergent beam because the rays cross over and diverge anyway.


Conclusion

Therefore, how much plastic to take off the back of the reflector depends on one's priority:
  • If it is to make the head fit as close to the body as possible when the torch is turned off, about 1.2 mm off the base of the reflector is probably all that can be removed without mutilating the actual reflector itself. However, this will mean that the head will have to be unscrewed about 1-1.25 turns when turning the torch on in order to maximally focus the beam; approximately the same as for the incandescent bulb. In other words, the head will still have to be screwed out to as far as it is when the torch just turns on with the unmodified reflector. While more of the thread will be engaged when the torch is turned off, there will be more wear and tear on it.
  • If it is to achieve a bit of focusing into the convergent-beam range (assuming this might be possible) and one doesn't care about the head not screwing down as far as possible, a fraction of a millimetre taken off the base of the reflector will suffice.
  • If no convergence of the beam is desired and one doesn't care about the head not screwing down as close as possible to the body, leave the reflector as it is. While less of the thread will be engaged, only 0.25 of a turn will be required to turn the torch on and it will immediately be at parallel-beam focus, so wear and tear on the thread will be minimized.
Cheers,
John.
 
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BGater

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I sanded some of my reflector off to let the head screw down almost as far as the stock bulb and started having trouble. The tiny plastic reflector gets really "mushy" for lack of a better word, after you sand off the base. After a few weeks of mild use I could not get the light to shut off as the reflector was distorted so much. Possible that I sanded off to much to start with. I do agree that leaving the reflector as stock is the best way to go for focus.
 

vincew1

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I know a lot of you are bothered by the gap left in the head of the Solitaire after installing the LED. After reading this I didn't want to compromise the functionality of the light by sanding/grinding the reflector. Here is what I came up with. I had some automotive vacuum tubing lying around. Took the tubing and measured to the exact length of the gap, trimmed and stretched it over the flashlight using needle nose pliers.

The result is an O-ring type piece of rubber that fills in the gap. I like it because when I reach in my pocket I can "feel" and locate my flashlight (from all the other stuff) right away. Plus the "O-ring" acts a stopping point for turning off the light. My flashlight actually has a midway point that turns it off. What I mean is that if you keep screwing the head down the light comes back on. So the "o-ring" is cut to the exact turn off point.

I suppose it would be nice if I could find a "Glow-ring" to fill that gap. That would make the flashlight identifiable in the dark, thus serving multi-purposes. I just haven't taken the time to measure/look for one yet.
 

Photon Joe

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I just finished modding a solitare using the 12 volt tiny battery and long spring method I found in another post somewhere.
The difference is I used a very tiny LED scavenged from a very small keychain "crank up" light that had 2 led's in the front of it , the LED is a perfict fit in the sol's reflector and just plugs in like a bulb does.
After clipping the leads to the proper length of course, matching the length of the original sol bulb.
One AAA battery would not work as the voltage is too low so I thought of trying the 12 v since the LED was running on a 6 volt source when in the "crank up" light.
These are the little square lights with a crank handle on the side and 2 "bulbs"
in the front of the light .
I found the light at walgreens for $1.99
and when the battery went down I scavenged it for everything useable.
It has such a small LED I have no idea what the measurement is but it fits right through the hole in the reflector with no modification.
The beam is very floody with a very even distribution of light and is very bright.
I will try to get some photos of the parts used and the light they came from if anyone is interested.
I hope someone knows of a better battery that would fit without the long spring and supply the proper voltage just to clean things up a bit , it works fine as is but it's just me and my pickyness.
 

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