Awesome.

[rewdee]

Have you checked to see if the Mule LE is completely and securely seated (firmly tightened into place) ?

Hi Archimedes, it was no the problem of turning on. The mule+tnc will stay on and no way to be switched of until the head are fully unscrewed (head/body contact path broken).

However, i already found a simple solution. Instead of putting a washer on the +ve terminal as fyrstormer suggested above (which i find very tricky), i put a washer at the -ve end of the battery. After a bit of experimenting with foam washer and rolled up copper tape (placed in the middle of washers as -ve contact), i found out i need about 4mm thickness for a perfect fit. Not very neat but it works. switching mode with a twisty is a bit challenging though.

Now, anyone knows where i can get some 4mm thick magnets?

 

[archimedes]

Hi Archimedes, it was no the problem of turning on. The mule+tnc will stay on and no way to be switched of until the head are fully unscrewed (head/body contact path broken)....

As you know, batteries (of the same type) often vary in size, and the tolerances are rather tight in some of these hosts. I had a Mule with a similar problem (constant on), where the light engine assembly had unscrewed slightly, leaving the positive contact just enough closer to the battery to complete the circuit as soon as the tube (with cell) was attached.

When the LE was tightened and seated into place, that left enough room for the circuit to be interrupted and turn the torch off.

Sounds like you had a different issue, but still figured out a solution ... cheers

 

[eala]

Yup, I was having some connection issues with the Sundrop head also...
There is not enough room to wrap the LE with insulating material. I was probabally going to sand it down a bit so the side of the can does not touch the body.

I am confused about why the sundrop head does not work with the twisty body. Could you not have a foam disk at the +terminal between the battery and the LE to provide a circuit break and leave the other end of the battery (- terminal) spring loaded or with a magnet spacer? This is akin to how a Sapphire/Arc works.

Is it possible at all to switch modes on a McGizmo head (I know you have to be really fast on the switch). I was wondering how possible it is with a twisty style.

Thanks,
eala

 

[rewdee]

Is it possible at all to switch modes on a McGizmo head (I know you have to be really fast on the switch). I was wondering how possible it is with a twisty style.

I find it very challenging to switch mode by twisting, but with the head position slightly turned from the "on" position, you can always press the head with the thumb and it will make that connection for the light to turn on. That way its easier to change mode ( by pressing the head with a similar clicky rhythm.

 

[archimedes]

I find it very challenging to switch mode by twisting, but with the head position slightly turned from the "on" position, you can always press the head with the thumb and it will make that connection for the light to turn on. That way its easier to change mode ( by pressing the head with a similar clicky rhythm.

I've wondered if maybe that's not so good for wear on the threads ... ?

 

[fyrstormer]

The light stays on because the titanium threads are conducting electricity to the light engine. The easiest way I can think of to stop this behavior is:

1) remove the light engine
2) wrap the light engine in Teflon tape, making sure to overlap the edges of the emitter board
3) reinstall the light engine
4) test and repeat as necessary until perfect insulation is achieved

Even then, the rear portion of the light engine could still conduct electricity if it brushes against the inside of the battery tube. A paper tube inside the battery tube should prevent this.

- - -

Regarding wear on the threads, my TiTi Twister 2 lube should do a fine job of preventing excessive thread wear.

 

[eala]

I like your other suggestion in post 14. Just have to find a piece of foam with the right compressibility properties.

I still have not bought one of these, but am very close. Prefer the McGizmo look to the look of the ones on the site right now. I should just post a WTB.

eala

 

[eala]

Got mine. Spring that came with it was junk - can be seen below. Body is awesome, as the thread title says. I built a foam donut and better quality spring from heavier brass wire. Took some time to get the right thickness.

 

[Obijuan Kenobe]

I keep wondering if one could try to use QTC give the right light engine.

The shorty Makai RULES.

obi

 

[eala]

The shorty Makai is actually very ergonomically nice. Sort of like holding a glass of wine with a short stem. I have been very happy with my twisty mod. I use this body a lot. Super compact.

eala