Batteries for Olight X7 Marauder

[StandardBattery]

Hmm. Most are saying 9A draw for Turbo-S, but of course this would vary with cell Voltage, is 7A what you measured?

You are right though that with their 2S2P configuration that is only 4.5A per stack. That is well within the MJ1 and GA cell capability, even protected versions. Seems like early reviewers and Olight are over stating battery requirements, unless you want to run the light on just 2 batteries. In fact it's sub optimal for the 30Q which operates better (more capacity) at 10A than 5A discharge. Of course maybe the voltage drop on the general cells does not allow the light to reach full Turbo and the driver limits the max current it will draw on each level so it can't make up for the drop. Still seems like if the design allowed for between 7-9A draw per stack then it could maintain turbo a lot longer. This would be within spec for the high-drain batteries.

Seems to be some conflicting/missing info on the power/battery requirements. If it is using only a max of say 5A per stack, then look for a clone that ups that to 10A per stack. Battery contacts might be a bit triky on that for a clone light.

 

[watchmania]

Hmm. Most are saying 9A draw for Turbo-S, but of course this would vary with cell Voltage, is 7A what you measured?

No, I thought I read somewhere in the forum about that current number before decided to get one

I can test it, with someone else to taking a pic. Should be easier testing it with 2S1P. Well, but honestly I'm too lazy for that now

I didn't see the 4x MJ1 had any problem at all driving the Turbo-S. Also, compared to the MJ1, the 4x 30Q didn't really seem to have any advantage for me.

But really, none of my flashlights seems to pull the batteries hard. Like, lazy chips.. EC4SW, for example. Lazy, just lazy!

 

[StandardBattery]

No, I thought I read somewhere in the forum about that current number before decided to get one

I can test it, with someone else to taking a pic. Should be easier testing it with 2S1P. Well, but honestly I'm too lazy for that now

I didn't see the 4x MJ1 had any problem at all driving the Turbo-S. Also, compared to the MJ1, the 4x 30Q didn't really seem to have any advantage for me.

But really, none of my flashlights seems to pull the batteries hard. Like, lazy chips.. EC4SW, for example. Lazy, just lazy!

No need for a test, I caved and bought one when GG had the sale, but they were out of stock so I have to wait. I don't need this light but it will make a great room lighter for power outages or for doing some types of repairs in the dark. I didn't have 4 30Q so I ordered them, but I probably could have made do with some others, although I would have had to modify GA or VTC6 cells for button top to get 4 matched ones, so I'm happy to have ordered 30Q in button top. Although if I had researched a bit more maybe I would have gone GA protected since they have button tops and look to be more than sufficient with a good protection circuit. I'm happy I didn't bust out the VTC6 saving those for some light that really needs them. Since it uses a 2S config I would have been happier to use protected cells, but since I'll be charging them external I'll take the precautions to check them more carefully each time. The 4x30Q is an good choice economically as well.

OLight commented that 9A was required, and ideally 10A, but with the 2S2P I do wonder if that that really is per battery although they were implying it was when asked if certain batteries would power the light. I almost escaped this one, but the GG offer came at a weak moment; a crazy light, should be fun.

OT: I only recently got the EC4SW because I just have not been happy with their products. I am really impressed with it, I really like the 2 cell side-by-side format so I had to try it. Of course missed the good group buy pricing, but I'm still happy. I'm surprised that with its small size and wieght it competes against the TK35UE very well. As long as it does not die pre maturely I'm sure going to really like it.

 

[Bucur]

JohnnyMac's review of the X7 reveals a very useful tip: wiping clean the positive contacts helps in prolonging Turbo S mode operation! He sums it up as "Must be some type of oily coating on the contacts that limited current throughput enough to cause Turbo S to fail".

I wiped clean the positive contacts on the tail cap and in the head (inside the battery case) with isopropyl alcohol, as well as both ends of all the batteries that have been in touch with them. I now can enjoy Turbo S mode down to about 3.84V. This is a great improvement from about 4.10V! I look forward to receiving my Samsung 30Qs but in the meantime, my X7 is now substantially more usable. You can read this awesome review, including his findings on which batteries work better with the X7 here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?425121-Review-Olight-X7-Marauder

 

[StandardBattery]

Always a good idea on any high amperage device. They should really do this at manufacturing, but it ads complexity to the process that for these small runs is not economical for many manufacturing lines.

 

[defbear]

I'm feeling a little dense as I can not seem to find the 30Q battery in a button top. I've tried a couple of set of batteries. Both sets are new and have gone through two recharge cycles. I scrubbed the X7's battery contacts with Deoxit Gold. The Nitecore NL189 3400 mAh will drive the X7 to Turbo. TurboS lights up and immediately backs down to Turbo. I use these batteries in a Nitecore TM06s which has 4000lmn. I have a set of Keeppower 18650 3400mAh 3.7/12.58Wh Part No. P1834J Ver:2016 button tops. They seem to work. (Are these those 30Q's in disguise?) No trouble lighting up TurboS and staying there. After about 2 1/2 minutes my arm gets tired I have had a couple of times where I can click the side button and the light won't step through L-M-H but does nothing or turns itself off. It seems the lights electronics get confused. Twice on Moonlight while I press and hold to go into Low, I get Strobe. A couple of other times it went from Moonlight to Turbo. The batteries are at 4.05.

 

[watchmania]

I'm feeling a little dense as I can not seem to find the 30Q battery in a button top.

I don't think button top 30Q existed. Never cared to buy button tops -- except couple of Efest 3100mAh I bought for cheap -- all my batteries are flat tops. Most of the time I solder blobs on all of my flashlights' positive contacts, after making sure all things worked with magnets for several days.

Now while soldering on the tailcaps on X7 was quite harder than usual, I gave up soldering on the inner tube positive contacts.. This thing dissipates heat like crazy, much better than ESCs.

I have had a couple of times where I can click the side button and the light won't step through L-M-H but does nothing or turns itself off. It seems the lights electronics get confused. Twice on Moonlight while I press and hold to go into Low, I get Strobe. A couple of other times it went from Moonlight to Turbo. The batteries are at 4.05.

No idea, never happened to me even with my older batteries on 2S1P. Better rule out battery voltage sagging by testing with known batteries.

 

[Lexel]

http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-Samsun...Top-18650-Battery-p-1067185.html?rmmds=search

less than 25$ for a set of 30q button top
on amazon there is one but for 17$ each

 

[watchmania]

http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-Samsun...Top-18650-Battery-p-1067185.html?rmmds=search

less than 25$ for a set of 30q button top
on amazon there is one but for 17$ each

Ouch didn't know they existed! Not bad at all, actually.

I always bought my battery locally, though. I thought they stopped shipping batteries through airmail?

 

[EDness]

http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-Samsun...Top-18650-Battery-p-1067185.html?rmmds=search

less than 25$ for a set of 30q button top
on amazon there is one but for 17$ each

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&search=30q&product_id=542

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=784&search=vtc6


They have both VTC6 and 30Q in button top. I personally used small magnets on top of my VTC6 for my X7...no problems.

 

[defbear]

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&search=30q&product_id=542

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=784&search=vtc6


They have both VTC6 and 30Q in button top. I personally used small magnets on top of my VTC6 for my X7...no problems.

Thank you for the links. Just ordered a set of each. Curious, where did you get your magnets?

 

[EDness]

Thank you for the links. Just ordered a set of each. Curious, where did you get your magnets?

ebay...got 25 5mmx2mm magnets for $4.

 

[MAD777]

ebay...got 25 5mmx2mm magnets for $4.

That's how I buy mine.

 

[IPTelman]

Greetings from Connecticut.

I've just come across this thread after searching for a resolution to the Turbo S issue.
With my particular unit, the actual no load voltage doesn't seem to make a difference. I can put in fully charged 10 amp draw batteries, test Turbo S works fine for 10-15 seconds then place the light on the shelf for 12 hours, come back only to have Turbo S mode only work for a split second. If I come back to the light again in say 10 minutes, Turbo S works fine.
I cannot get Turbo S to work at all at voltages less than about 4.08. (Blinks momentarily) I'm using the Eastshine E35 batteries.

Wondering what may be different in the lights that others have reported absolutely no issues down to far lower voltages? Could it be a particular batch of lights that have the issue?

The S/N of my light is GO9170005

 

[Bucur]

Greetings from Connecticut.

I've just come across this thread after searching for a resolution to the Turbo S issue.
With my particular unit, the actual no load voltage doesn't seem to make a difference. I can put in fully charged 10 amp draw batteries, test Turbo S works fine for 10-15 seconds then place the light on the shelf for 12 hours, come back only to have Turbo S mode only work for a split second. If I come back to the light again in say 10 minutes, Turbo S works fine.
I cannot get Turbo S to work at all at voltages less than about 4.08. (Blinks momentarily) I'm using the Eastshine E35 batteries.

Wondering what may be different in the lights that others have reported absolutely no issues down to far lower voltages? Could it be a particular batch of lights that have the issue?

The S/N of my light is GO9170005

I think that such inconsistencies are due to the current supply of the batteries being extremely close to their limits. The X7 can draw a tad more current the next time and/or the batteries can supply a tad less. Their protection circuits may also be a tad less consistent than perfect. In my case, even simply relocating the batteries could, sometimes, help in driving the Turbo S mode which was unavailable during the last attempt. Cleaning the positive terminals helped me a lot and I believe unprotected batteries with higher current rating will help even more.

BTW, welcome to the forums.

 

[IPTelman]

Thank you Bucur

I'm a bit reluctant to go with unprotected cells. I may give that a try however as my experience now is less than ideal.
Of course if they do resolve the issue, I'll have 8 brand new Eastshines sitting about doing nothing.

 

[defbear]

I have both VTC6 and 30Q's on the way. Does this light have low voltage protection?

 

[Bucur]

I have both VTC6 and 30Q's on the way. Does this light have low voltage protection?

Yes, it does. However, in a series battery configuration, this does not guarantee that one of the cells will not go south. In order to properly benefit from the low voltage protection circuit of the light, the behaviour (discharge curve) of the batteries should be very close to each other .

 

[IPTelman]

30q's on the way from Mountain.
Thanks EDness.

Hope they do the trick.

 

[EDness]

I think that such inconsistencies are due to the current supply of the batteries being extremely close to their limits. The X7 can draw a tad more current the next time and/or the batteries can supply a tad less. Their protection circuits may also be a tad less consistent than perfect. In my case, even simply relocating the batteries could, sometimes, help in driving the Turbo S mode which was unavailable during the last attempt. Cleaning the positive terminals helped me a lot and I believe unprotected batteries with higher current rating will help even more.

BTW, welcome to the forums.

IMO I think the protection circuits' the cause of the turbo s issue. I used LG MJ1(unprotected) which has similar specs as the Eastshine E35 (GAs with protection circuit)...never a problem.