Most of you new to Zebralight seem to be missing one important detail about these battery fitment issues. Its not random, and its certainly not just so they can shrink the light a mm more. All these current-gen (and most of last-gen) Zebras use XHP-series emitters. Those are all either 6 or 12 volt LEDs. We're feeding them with a 4v cell, and driving them to high levels. That means the light has to have a strong boost driver.
In other words these little lights pull lots of amps from the cell.
Protected batteries just won't work. They'd trip, or at least be likely to. What good would an extended tailcap be if your protection circuit just tripped as soon as you hit the switch? Plus pogo-pins have less resistance than springs, but allow a smaller range of sizes to fit. Its all about getting enough amperage to that driver. So while it may be annoying at first (and I agree, it is), Zebralight shortened these lights so you wouldn't have a choice and they wouldn't have to deal with the false "warranty" claims caused by folks using unsupported batteries. Use an unprotected cell, its required by these boost drivers.
While I myself have come to not mind using unprotected flat tops, this information is just not true.
Any ZL will in fact run just fine on the right protected cells if they would fit.
The most powerful ZL to date only draws less then 8 amps and that is only a quick burst for about 15 seconds before the PID kicks in and significantly drops the current draw. It also only draws 8 amps on an almost fully discharged cell, on a full one it only draws about 5-6amps. Most other ZL's draw 6 amps or less(some much less) and ZL has even confirmed most can safely run on a low draw old Panasonic NCR18650B's.
There are several protected cells capable of delivering 10 amps continuous discharge and a few capable of 15 amps continuous discharge so they will easily run any ZL and are capable of running a light that is almost double the amp draw of the most powerful ZL.
The pogo pins are also not needed due to resistance issues.
Many other much higher amperage lights use springs(some single, some double) and work just fine. The Emisar D4 uses a single spring on the tailcap and draws 24 amps on turbo for instance. It should also be noted that many of the new 6 and 12V emitter powered ZL's use a spring tailcap or duel springs including the entire SC63/64 line and entire H600 line. So do 6 and 12V emitter powered lights from other brands. Plus, any resistance deficiencies can easily mitigated by increasing the gauge of the springs, going to a duel spring design, or going with a spring bypass design.
Imo ZL changed their design mainly to shorten their lights and to try an show off a new design(the pogo pins). The pogo pins were not needed and were simply a design choice.
Now, that said, unprotected flat tops are much easier to find then protected cells these days. They are also much cheaper. They can be found at Vape shops in even the smallest of cities and a great selection are available from a number of very reputable online vendors. They can also be ordered in bulk from a variety of offshore vendors. And, considering ZL's have built in low voltage protection and a battery capacity indicator there are no big downsides to unprotected cells other then having to get some if you don't already have some for other lights. The only real downsides are lower contact pressure which can cause a bit of added battery rattle but, that can be cured by adding a layer or two of extra heat shrink over your cells. And, cells are less protected from shock which can cause damage to the terminals under high shock conditions but, ZL has made a design change to help this on the newest production. It should also be noted that a bit of added caution should be taken when using unprotected cells however due to their lack of a built in protection circuit. Only a high quality charger should be used and they should always be kept in cases or silicone sleeves when not in a light or the charger due to short circuit concerns.