robo, cave dave is giving some very sound advice! in fact I'm agreeing with pretty much everything cave dave has posted.
reason I was able to predict 52 - 54 cm earlier, we are both are aprox same size. like cave dave said, different mfg measure slightly different. so don't worry too much about difference between 52-54cm. seat hight from frame to saddle and frame reach from saddle to bars is the main difference. this can be adjusted by size of handle bar stem used.
used to be when most high end bikes used cro-moly. bike sizes were more standardized. now days with fat aluminum tubes, molded carbon, round carbon and the like.... then throw in non traditional geometry. frame sizing can be confusing indeed.
another vote for a triple front chain ring and mountain bike clipless pedals. I've been using Time mountain bike clipless for both road and trail for many years. yes you will want the recessed cleats.
the guy that took time to measure bone sizes sounds like he knows what he's doing. a 20lb bike is really light! what you need to be concerned with is toughness of your wheels.
you already know that your mass is heavier that most your height. so wheels is where the extra beating will take place. then factor in beginner bashing pot holes. until you get your road legs, you will be bashing some holes. no way around it :sick2:
after you get some miles under your belt, then you will automatically avoid holes and/or bunny hop over them at speed.
again agreeing with cave dave. prefer 9sp over 10sp due to durability. some riders prefer 8sp over 9sp for same reason. these are rabid mountain bikers who bash their gears much harder than roadies.
again... once you have shopped enough to find out what you will get for each price point. say all the $800 ranges bikes and $1200 range bikes. then try to find a deal on last years model $1200 range bike marked down to $800.
in case you haven't noticed... long time bikers are tough shoppers
reason I was able to predict 52 - 54 cm earlier, we are both are aprox same size. like cave dave said, different mfg measure slightly different. so don't worry too much about difference between 52-54cm. seat hight from frame to saddle and frame reach from saddle to bars is the main difference. this can be adjusted by size of handle bar stem used.
used to be when most high end bikes used cro-moly. bike sizes were more standardized. now days with fat aluminum tubes, molded carbon, round carbon and the like.... then throw in non traditional geometry. frame sizing can be confusing indeed.
another vote for a triple front chain ring and mountain bike clipless pedals. I've been using Time mountain bike clipless for both road and trail for many years. yes you will want the recessed cleats.
the guy that took time to measure bone sizes sounds like he knows what he's doing. a 20lb bike is really light! what you need to be concerned with is toughness of your wheels.
you already know that your mass is heavier that most your height. so wheels is where the extra beating will take place. then factor in beginner bashing pot holes. until you get your road legs, you will be bashing some holes. no way around it :sick2:
after you get some miles under your belt, then you will automatically avoid holes and/or bunny hop over them at speed.
again agreeing with cave dave. prefer 9sp over 10sp due to durability. some riders prefer 8sp over 9sp for same reason. these are rabid mountain bikers who bash their gears much harder than roadies.
again... once you have shopped enough to find out what you will get for each price point. say all the $800 ranges bikes and $1200 range bikes. then try to find a deal on last years model $1200 range bike marked down to $800.
in case you haven't noticed... long time bikers are tough shoppers