Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)
Heres some more pics of the WF-503B
Body tube, bezel and switch cap. You can't tell from these pics but the overall body diameter is ~3mm larger than a Surefire 6P, and the tailcap O-ring is a little thinner. The result is a bigger feeling light in the hand with a much thicker wall thickness than a 6P thats been bored for 18650.
Business end threads
Tail cap end threads. I spent some time fine tuning this end of th elight to get it to where I like it. Out of the box the body tube end was anodized. This forced current through the threads. My personal preference is to have a bare-metal tube end that butts up against the switch pill. That way current conducts more direct, without having to conduct through thread lube.
I also spent some time modding the switch cap. Out of the box its way too long overall length, and the cap bottoms out against the outside of the body tube. This again forces the current conduction path through the threads. I used a coarse grade file and shortened the cap by about 3.5 mm. This allows the body tube end to direct contact the switch pill ring. I also used some metal polish and smoothed out the O-ring contact surface. I don't think it really needed it, I just wanted a smooth, slick surface for the O-ring to slide on.
The bezel is pretty nice out of the box. Mine has some crude machining marks on the inside which can be seen when looking into the business end. Its nothing more than a cosmetic annoyance, although I am going to polish them out with some metal polish.
The O-ring is a little too big and does not engage the lens. I'm going to have to replace it with a slightly smaller one to better seal out water.
-CHEERS-
-Body tube walls and overall diameter are thicker than an 18650 modded 6P.
-Good heat sinking capabilities. The cavity for the P60 drop in is deep, and cradles the side wall length of the module snugly with some AL foil. Although the large diameter spring is still needed for electrical contact. Despite the spring, I still think there is enough body contact to adequately conduct heat. Using my DIY 1350 mah modules for 30 minute runs heats up the body of the light quickly, so surely heat is not being trapped. Although a spring-less design would still be my preference.
-Nice OD color, more green than type III Surefire anodize.
-Smooth feeling reverse clicky.
-Nice knurl grip and anti-roll bezel
-O-rings throughout, although the one on the front glass is too big.
-Smooth yet firm thread engagement, very close to my Fenix L1T.
-Can be completely taken apart.
-JEERS-
-O-ring at the front glass is too big, a smaller one is needed to properly seal out water from the front.
-Anodized body tube tail-end forces current through threaded areas.
-Bezel is a little thinner than my 6P, I am sure one drop will dent it. I wish the bezel were as thisk walled as the body tube.
-Spring-less body contact with the P60 would be my preference.
Overall I think its a good host, although not as great as a solarforce. The fact that it accepts 18650 cells puts it (and the solarforce) on another playing field than my trusty 6P. The 503B needs a little tweeking to get it to reach its full potential, but once you do that its a perfectly serviceable light for anyone on a tight budget.
**edit**
I bought this light used from another CPF'er, who bought it from ebay seller HKequipment. It originally came with a 7.4V Xenon module for $15 free S/H. At that price its a slam-dunk
excellent value. To date this host offers the most bang for the buck that I have found.
I will be doing some informal testing of the lights with eneloop, sanyo 2700 and the trustfire batteries tonight!
