Best battery for Surefire Aviator?

samoset

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A few days ago I found a Surefire Aviator along the road. It was dim like a cheap light with a low battery. When I unscrewed the tail piece, the battery couldn't be removed. I figured it had been discarded as junk.

I discovered how to remove the battery and, after a couple of days, how to turn it on bright. It came with a CR123A rechargeable lithium battery. I was about to order 3.7-volt batteries and a charger when I realized it came with a 3 volt battery.

I see that the Surefire rechargeable CR123A is only 400mah. Should I stick with that instead of a higher capacity 3.7 volt battery?

Should I get throwaway batteries, instead? Rechargeables are advantageous in my headlamp because I keep it on as a work light, but I'll probably switch the Aviator on only briefly.
 

thermal guy

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Ok thats the new model and I good find. I'm not sure if that can use a 16340 "3.7 volt " Regular 123 is what I'd run. Real big capacity 1500-1600 mah.
 

samoset

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Ok thats the new model and I good find. I'm not sure if that can use a 16340 "3.7 volt " Regular 123 is what I'd run. Real big capacity 1500-1600 mah.
Maybe Surefire includes 1 rechargeable battery to coax the consumer to buy 2 more and a charger for $32, and all 3 cells together would have less run time than 1 primary cell.

My lithium iron phosphate Surefire cell has 3.2 volts. I don't know if that means the light I found was barely used.

In case I decide I'll be using a lot of "on" time, I see that Taken offers a charger with four 3 volt lithium iron phosphate cells for $27.
 

Monocrom

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What others have recommended.... Don't use 3.7v RCR123s.
If you're determined to use rechargeables, obviously SureFire makes 3.0v rechargeable batteries. There's also a brand called Watson that I've personally had good luck with when it comes to 3.0v rechargeables. But that one is also only 400mAh.

Seems your best bet is a primary CR123 cells. Doesn't have to be SureFire. Any quality one Made in USA or Japan will work reliably.
 

Monocrom

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Is Watson really made in Japan? I seen those on B&H or somewhere.
I've got four of their batteries and 2-bay charger. Batts. are labeled "Made in China." If they're listed as Made in Japan on B&H's website, someone screwed up royally! Have bought quite a few things from B&H. Distinctly remember the cells being labeled properly on their site several months back when I bought them.
 

samoset

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I checked the current. On low, 26ma. On high, for an instant it's 1.4 amp before settling at 1.0 amp in a second or two. At first I thought the battery must be weak, but 1.0 amp sounds good for a 250 lumen light.

I wonder if there's another explanation, that the regulator needs about 2.5 watts and for the first second it needs more current because the battery resistance is higher. They used to say that if a car has been sitting in winter, you might have to turn on the lights a few seconds to stir up the battery so it will start the car. I sometimes have that problem with the AGM battery I put on my mower.

Are there clamps for helmets or handlebars? The Aviator might make a dandy bicycle headlight for dark roads. I guess I'd get 90 minutes from a primary cell and 24 from a rechargeable. My first expensive light was a Fenix headlamp using one AA cell. Some NiCads lasted under an hour, but that was fine. I could change in the dark with one hand, holding an umbrella in the other hand. I'd keep charged cells in my right pocket and discharged ones in my left.
 

samoset

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Fenix makes one. I haven't used it yet but it probably works well.
Those I found at their site seem to have rails for a certain kind of bicycle light. Now I see I don't want another handlebar light. I want a hat light. I wear a cowboy-style hard hat. It won't blow off and protects me from sun, wind, rain, and glare. Headlamp bands don't stay put on the crown, so I have to choose between a hat and a light.

Amazon has a flashlight holder that clamps to the brim of a hard hat. I've ordered it with 2 primary CR123s. If I deplete them quickly, I'll spend $27 on a 4-bay Taken charger with 4 Taken 3V CR123As. That way I'll have 5. A short run time isn't a problem if you keep charged cells in your pocket. You can change them at your convenience instead of letting them run down.
 
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ampdude

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I have no experience with the LED version of the Aviator, but the incan version will run on either two CR123A's or two RCR123A's without modification. The voltage regulator in the body puts the voltage at about 4.2V to the lamp assembly.
 
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samoset

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I have no experience with the LED version of the Aviator, but the incan version will run on either two CR123A's or two RCR123A's without modification. The voltage regulator in the body puts the voltage at about 4.2V to the lamp assembly.
I'd love to know more about the history of the Aviator. The one I found awed an Afghan War veteran across the street. In basic training they were issued larger Surefire lights. They used primary cells there and 3.7 volt rechargeables in Afghanistan. I think I see why. In basic training, having recruits recharge would have been a hassle for management. In war, recharging before a mission ensured that you could count on your battery.

At first I thought it was junk because it didn't seem to have a charging port or a removable battery. When I saw the name, I vaguely recognized it from frequenting this forum 10 years ago.

My first expensive headlamp was a Princeton Tec Fuel. It was so awful that I bought a Fenix HL 21. That was great. After a couple of years, I had trouble with the headband, so I bought an HL 23. What a disappointment! I was kind of glad when it broke.

By then, there were cheap no-name headlamps better than the HL 23, and I quit coming here. A couple of years ago, I discovered that I could buy a roll of velcro strap with 50 buckles for $10, from which I could make dozens of head bands better than OEM. My HL 21 is back in service, standing by.
 
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ampdude

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I'd love to know more about the history of the Aviator. The one I found awed an Afghan War veteran across the street. In basic training they were issued larger Surefire lights. They used primary cells there and 3.7 volt rechargeables in Afghanistan. I think I see why. In basic training, having recruits recharge would have been a hassle for management. In war, recharging before a mission ensured that you could count on your battery.

At first I thought it was junk because it didn't seem to have a charging port or a removable battery. When I saw the name, I vaguely recognized it from frequenting this forum 10 years ago.

My first expensive headlamp was a Princeton Tec Fuel. It was so awful that I bought a Fenix HL 21. That was great. After a couple of years, I had trouble with the headband, so I bought an HL 23. What a disappointment! I was kind of glad when it broke.

By then, there were cheap no-name headlamps better than the HL 23, and I quit coming here. A couple of years ago, I discovered that I could buy a roll of velcro strap with 50 buckles for $10, from which I could make dozens of head bands better than OEM. My HL 21 is back in service, standing by.
Their are no recharbable batteries in war. I can say that in many different ways, but I'm being lazy today.
 

samoset

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Their are no recharbable batteries in war. I can say that in many different ways, but I'm being lazy today.
I'm glad I refrained from pounding on my neighbor's door to enlighten him. He would have told me I was a fool for believing everything I read on the internet.
 

ampdude

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I'm glad I refrained from pounding on my neighbor's door to enlighten him. He would have told me I was a fool for believing everything I read on the internet.

Yea I recommend against it. He probably wouldn't care about your or my opinion anyways and just keep doing the same crap, whatever it is that annoys you and most likely the average person.
 
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