Sold/Expired BigLeef System (continued)

[Leef]

Adamlau, there is no scheduled run of BigLeef System parts. I'll keep an eye on the Hound's inventories and schedule a second run when he's running low.

I'm glad you guys are finding the BigLeef System to be helpful in building killer lights! :twothumbs

 

[Leef]

Here are the 10A BigLeef System switches: http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3429

At only 5 clams, you gotta love 'em!

 

[Daniel_sk]

Sorry it might be off-topic, I didn't want to start a new thread because of just one question.

Are Leef bodies still made? They are out of stock at Lighthound.com everytime I take a look.

I am looking for a E-head/C-tail 18650 body. Are they still in production or sold out forever? When was the last time they were in stock?

(PS. I am thinking about a E2DL head + 18650 leef body setup)

Thanks.

 

[Daniel_sk]

Well, I have just received a reply from Lighthound.com:
"At least 3 months...we are waiting on the HA III Gray CC bodies to be finished first."

:mecry:

 

[Swagg]

Hey guys, I have a nice BigLeef C system that works in three different set ups right now, its a great way to build a light! Anyway, after about two weeks of use it seems like the Leef clicky just quit working. None of my setups will power anymore so I'm guessing its the clicky, any ideas or suggestions?

 

[milkyspit]

Hey guys, I have a nice BigLeef C system that works in three different set ups right now, its a great way to build a light! Anyway, after about two weeks of use it seems like the Leef clicky just quit working. None of my setups will power anymore so I'm guessing its the clicky, any ideas or suggestions?

Try removing the tail and touching a wire between the bottom of the battery and the bare metal at the bottom edge of the battery tube. If your light works, then yes, you've got a switch problem... if you still can't get it to work, the problem is elsewhere. Let us know what you find!

 

[Swagg]

Try removing the tail and touching a wire between the bottom of the battery and the bare metal at the bottom edge of the battery tube. If your light works, then yes, you've got a switch problem... if you still can't get it to work, the problem is elsewhere. Let us know what you find!

Yep, that did it. It worked when I touched the wire so I guess its the switch. How could I get this repaired?

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[milkyspit]

Yep, that did it. It worked when I touched the wire so I guess its the switch. How could I get this repaired?

Thanks for the suggestion.

Swagg, that's an easy repair if one has the basic switch on hand. I have a few and could replace the failed switch... would expect to have the tail repaired then on the way back within a day of receipt. PM or email if I might help...

That said, if you recently bought the tail from Lighthound, perhaps they could replace it for you at no charge. It shouldn't be failing that quickly.

 

[donn_]

... would expect to have the tail repaired then on the way back within a day of receipt.

 

[Swagg]

When using the BigLeef System 26650 Body with AW's IMR C cell, it seems like a spacers is needed at some point because they are quite a bit longer than the cell. What's the best way to get a spacer for this?

 

[milkyspit]

When using the BigLeef System 26650 Body with AW's IMR C cell, it seems like a spacers is needed at some point because they are quite a bit longer than the cell. What's the best way to get a spacer for this?

The IMR cells are noticeably shorter than the original black-jacket cells, which would be the reason for the longer tubes. One could make a homebrew spacer using a nut and bolt (maybe brass or stainless) stuck through several large nylon washers, all from the neighborhood hardware store.

That said, it wouldn't be all that hard to machine a batch of spacers from delrin and brass... if there were enough folks interested, having such a run done would be entirely feasible.

 

[cernobila]

When using the BigLeef System 26650 Body with AW's IMR C cell, it seems like a spacers is needed at some point because they are quite a bit longer than the cell. What's the best way to get a spacer for this?

You can always use a bunch of coins with electrical tape around them.....

Find the ideal diameter size in your currency, then simply experiment how many coins you will need for the task, then wrap the tape around the coins and you are done......I use this system in my BigLeef 3xC body when using 3xC alkaline cells with my Malkoff M30 drop-in.

 

[Swagg]

Thanks guys, I was already thinking something like this but wanting to make sure so I didn't mess anything up! Thanks