Can I pant tailcap/body threads so it will lock out?

[psychbeat]

I did a search but didn't see what I was looking for.
Sorry if this has been answered

I have a couple of solarforce tailcaps that aren't anodized on the threads
I was wondering what to paint on there that is durable enough to keep them
from making electrical contact?

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

 

[psychbeat]

I was thinking some kind of enamel maybe?
I can pop the body or tailcap in the oven if need be.

Im just worried the threads will be filled in by the paint or
that it will wear off too easily.

 

[Slickseth]

Anodizing is probably the only reliable method.

 

[kyhunter1]

What about the teflon plumbers thread tape? It is non adhesive and removeable.

 

[PCC]

If you like forward clickies, I've made a Solarforce tail cap able to lock out using a McClicky. I can show it to you if you want to see it since you live so close to me. I haven't tried it with a reverse clicky, yet.

 

[psychbeat]

If you like forward clickies, I've made a Solarforce tail cap able to lock out using a McClicky. I can show it to you if you want to see it since you live so close to me. I haven't tried it with a reverse clicky, yet.

Rad- might have to stop by sometime soon. Thanks!
I've installed a McClicky in one of my L2Ps & that would help.

The light I'm most concerned about is the L2M I'm trying to set up for EDC.
I've got a zero-res kit coming & was hoping to install it into the Solarforce tail cap.
Having a twisty host u can't lock without unscrewing almost totally apart would suck

I've got some Teflon tape I could try as well & maybe a light coat of spraypaint?

Man... Why doesn't Solarforce anodize after threading?

 

[PCC]

That changes things. Twisty switches like the Z41 lock out by unscrewing the cap far enough that electrical contact can't be made. To do this they isolate the aluminum contact piece from the cap itself by holding it in place with a plastic retaining ring. The retaining ring prevents you from pressing the contact piece far enough to make contact so it's locked out. To install a Zero-Rez into a stock reverse-clicky Solarforce L2 tail would entail some custom work due to the fact that there's a shoulder in there that's missing on the Surefire equivalent. the retaining ring from a Surefire won't screw in far enough.

 

[psychbeat]

Ahh - I see said the blind man

I thought it was the anoed threads that kept it from making contact.

It's funny how wanting something so simple as a twisty end cap for an L2M
can be so complicated - flashaholics blues!


A plastic end cap w a copper disc at the end would work even hahha

Oh well looks like I need to order a black z44 then. I'll test fit the grey one I have n see how it looks on the l2m.

The sanded down solarforce head I made w Dremel sandpaper n toothpaste came out cool at least!

 

[will]

I think that anything that would be applied to the threads will eventually break down. Plumbers tape tends to tear apart as the two items are screwed together. Any paint will wear down as well. The only permanent solution ( for the threads ) would be to cut off the original threads, put on some kind of non-conductive material, and thread that. Certainly not an easy task.

 

[psychbeat]

Or I suppose I can just isolate the zero-res switch or whatever from the cap.

I think I was going about this the wrong way...gotta learn somewhere tho!

 

[psychbeat]

Ok so the threads on the zero-res don't dig the solarforce cap but I'm sure I
coax it tho there's no way to isolate it without a buncha tape n glue or something.

So I used the Surefire z41 from my C2 and it fits GREAT!

I now have room for an 18500!
I need some GITD o-rings or something to make the gap look nicer.