Can super bulbs run on AA alkalines?

[_mike_]

Like the subject line says. Can super bulbs like the WA1318 or WA1185, or any of the other ones people are special ordering be run on AA alkalines?

In other words, instead of running (for example) the WA1318 on 9 AA nimh's, can you use AA alkalines?

 

[Lynx_Arc]

From what I have read about the alkaline vs nimh/nicd debate,
alkalines are good for lower drain applications, perhaps 1A or less if that high depending on cell size. I would guess if you put more than that on a AA alkaline the voltage would sag noticeably perhaps even to the point you may have to add 1-3 extra cells to compensate. Also the run time at higher current drains would give you perhaps less than half the run time of rechargeables and you may experience the *spring* effect where you turn off the light for awhile and the batteries recover some giving you a brighter light again.

After thinking about it.. adding extra batteries to make up for the sag of alkalines may end up being a bad idea. Some incans here people tend to overdrive them for brighter output and perhaps a higher starting voltage could pop the bulbs, I am not sure of this perhaps someone else knows for sure about alkalines. I know most flashlights overdrive on alkalines 6v lights use 4.8v bulbs but these uber bulbs may already be pushing that hard and may be even more sensitive to overvoltage.

 

[legtu]

Yes but don't expect full performance from the bulbs though. Alkalines don't perform well on high-drain applications.

In order to maximize performance, you'll have to parallel multiple batts.

 

[270winchester]

The power-curve is not ideal from the alkalines...just think what happens to a mag 3-d's brightness after, say, 30 minutes......

Also the internal resistance and not-so-pretty high drain situation behaior from them sure don't help

Nick

 

[_mike_]

Thanks for the information guys. I kind of thought alkalines wouldn't be a very good choice and you just confirmed it. Oh darn, guess I'll just have to get into rechargeables now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'm pretty much all set, all need are the nimh's and some "super" bulbs. I already have the borofloat lens, battery adapters, aluminum reflector and of course 3D mag host.

Thanks again for the input.

 

[TheBeam]

Which would be better, NiMH or NiCD????????? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Lynx_Arc]

Nimh would probably be best Nicd only has advantages in super high current drain applications probably beyond the needed specs of bulbs you would consider, plue nimh has more capacity sometimes up to 2-3 times as much.

 

[Ginseng]

1. Alkies, no. Above 1.5A, definitely no.
2. For maximum power density (longest runtime in the smallest space), nimh.
3. For maximum resistance to trickle-overcharging and deep discharging, nicad.

Wilkey

 

[TheBeam]

Thank you and thank you. I thought that nimh would be best up to "x" number of nimh, then nicd would be able to handle the load better. I guess I thought wrong. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

 

[Lynx_Arc]

for extremely heavy loads nicads and then lower rated nimh are better (1400mah-1800mah nimh). But I am guessing you probably are not going to the extreme and some of the 2000+mah ones probably work well. From what I have seen Ginseng is the master blaster of the super duper bulbaholics, so you may want to do some searches over some mods he has done to soak up some knowledge. I had someone say mag1185 or magmod would be good to search for in CPF, but I am sure there are others.

 

[cheesehead]

I think NiMH, especially the 15 minute rechargeable ones will give you the best result. Those are the ones with low internal resistance and will keep up with NiCD for any reasonable current output. I used a 3 cell bulb with 4 of the low resitance (15 minute rechargeables) and the bulb blows in 45 minutes or so. Then I used the standard NiMH (a little higher internal resitance) and I actually can use the light for several hours. With alkalines, the bulb seems to never blow, but then it's never that bright either.

 

[Ginseng]

Hey Cheesy! Good to see you buddy. How'd that aircraft landing light ever turn out?

Lynx,
I've done my fair share. Guys like Sway, FninjaP90 and Bwaites among a bunch of others carry on the cause. I'd say we have a great hotwire team.

Wilkey

 

[cheesehead]

Hey Ginseng!

Landing light is still on the drawing board (I got sidetracked with HIDs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif). But, now I'm trying to convince Newbie to make me a 24 volt, 30 amp board, so er, um, well, it CAN BE OVERDRIVEN!

cheese

 

[Ginseng]

Nice. I can't wait to see htat one bust the dark /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Wilkey

 

[Lynx_Arc]

Ginseng I am eyeing some of these mods myself. I thought I had a decent light to mod but found out the reflector is plastic, but the lens is glass... go figure. Is the plastic screw in spring holders for pr2 bulbs a problem with these hotter bulbs? (do they melt when too hot?)

 

[Ginseng]

I'm not sure what piece or part you're referring to, Lynx.

wilkey

 

[Lynx_Arc]

most pr2 bulb lights you have to unscrew a plastic holder that pushes the bulb up against the reflector and has a contact and/or spring inside it to touch to the battery nipple. I was curious to if some of these high current bulbs got hot enough to turn the plastic holder to mush.

 

[cheesehead]

Yes, especially with cheaper lights, and it doesn't take much, even an over-driven 3 cell bulb will melt plastic. The better Princeton Tec lights withstand the heat and do better, also the larger plastic reflectors seem to hold up better.