Re: CAUTION !! When a battery label becomes meaningless
I know it seems like splitting hairs, but indeed a 12% increase is all you get with the new XM-L2 and that was enough to release an entire new series of light for some manufacturers. The big deal seems like to me it is just in the fact that people want to be able to say that they have the newest and brightest light regardless of its useful functions. I have never over-driven a light, but I do have a plan to build a handheld light that is smaller than the SR-90 and has a force-cooled Cree model emitter and I would simply calculate my turbo mode based on the maximum amount that I could cool the led to maintain temperature less than 100C. I think that people always want to get the best out of what is available at the current time. I have a modified TN-31 that I got during the Christmas deal, and I wouldn't have gotten one otherwise, that stock did not even compare to a very cheap $30 DX light that I got and modified. First the thermal properties are terrible, they actually mounted the copper heat sink to the anodized finish. This is completely unacceptable as it basically acts as a thermal barrier between the copper of the heat-sink and the body of the light. I do not understand over-driven lights that take things past the point of possible heat dissipation, because when researching all of the thermal properties of the led you will notice that the higher the temperature the less efficient the led becomes and the lower the efficiency the higher the temperature will be. This is going to cause 2 things first the high current will need higher Vf and that will most likely cause you to need a Boost driver or a higher V by placing more batteries in series, and using a buck driver to get to the lower, normal operating modes. This would cause some issues, the higher the supply voltage is greater than Vf for the led the lower the driver efficiency will be and that kind of defeats the purpose of the lower more efficient modes. There are a couple of options, you could design a light that has the sole purpose of being an over-driven single mode light. The other things you could do is to use 2 separate drivers and switch, or you could use PWM and a capacitor that would allow you to compensate for the poor PF that you would have. Most people don't care though, every time I see a new SST-90 light my engineering spirit weeps for our community. The constant reminder that it is capable of almost 3000lm if over-driven is obscene. These are driven at 9.0A and a total of 34W with a current density of 1A/mm2 and at 25C they can get 2750lm. How hard would that be for 34W of led power and 22C/W of resistance between the emitter and the case? Therefore you can say that unless your ambient temperature is 3C you will never be able to achieve these numbers, regardless of your build design. The spread sheet has some stuff that would say that you can if you were able to achieve some seriously amazing thermal efficiency, but I have my doubts, as well as the SR-90 not being anywhere near those numbers. I guess I am just bitter, but the only way I would over-drive an emitter is if I had somehow improved the thermal efficiency of the light to compensate for the extra waist heat that was being formed.
argleargle: I should be pretty good at therm o-dynamics as I got my training from the US Navy while training to be a nuclear operator, and I don't really like to participate in discussions that are just simple one line answers I like to think about the answers I give.