CFL Ballast Fire

[PhotonWrangler]

Hmm, using appliance switches should not be a problem. I believe these switches use a relay to switch the load on and off, not a triac as a regular lamp module uses.

And the presence of the X10 carrier is negligible IMO in terms of potential effects on an electronically ballasted lamp.

It seems that one of the emerging patterns here is that solid state devices and high voltage don't mix well, especially when component choices are made without consideration for thermal effects and breakdown voltage. File this under "why LEDs will eventually beat out CFLs." LEDs remove the need for a high striking voltage.

 

[LED_Thrift]

...I actually followed up and sent it back to Phillips for a replacement (which they provided) but they also said it died because I must have dimming switches, three way switches, or illuminated neon switches in my house...

Was Phillips saying that using three-way switches to switch CFL's is detrimental to their life? Or are they saying that just having them [or illuminated switches or dimmers] on the same circuit is not good for them. It's hard for me to see why switching them with three-way switches would be bad for them. Even though there may be potential to them all the time, if it has no where to go I wouldn't think that would harm them.

 

[jrmcferren]

I think they mean three way switches that do not take three way bulbs, such as those used in touch lamps. Those use a dimmer instead.

 

[Timothybil]

I have been using CFLs for close to ten years now. For the most part, I have been very happy with them, especially when they switched to electronic ballasts and actually started right away and at almost full brightness. The only premature failures I have had have been Lights of Americas, which is why I will never buy another of those. Nothing catastrophic, just quit after a couple of months.

Right now a large majority of the lights in the house are CFLs. except in a couple of places where the lights are not used very often/are in a place it is a real pain to get to (and reason one usually applies to them as well). I am even having good results with several enclosed fixtures down here in the basement. They are the 12" x 12" by 8" ones with the socket on the side of the box and a white glass cover. When I was using the usual 50 cent incans in them, they would last about 3 months of light usage and blow. Some of the CFLs have been in for over a year with no problems.

 

[nisshin]

I had a desk lamp CFL burn up right in front of me. Switched it on and tiny sparks were emanating like a Van de Graaff generator. Quickly switched it off; the plastic around the ballast was cracked and smoking. Had the lamp about five years.

 

[jrmcferren]

My household has never had any trouble with GE CFLs, in fact we have three that are on 24/7 as we can't get photocell sensors to work in the lights with incandescent lamps. We have them on as an always on light. One we have had on for a few years and we changed the CFL a few times, the other two we switched over today. The other major CFL use we have in the house is a lamp on a Mechanical timer, again using GE bulbs we have never had any problem, not even a black mark on the CFL. I personally have used CFLs on and off since 1997. I still have the one from 1997 as I the light is not used that frequently, this one however is a Sylvania.

 

[dieselducy]

I just had one burn out and one side of it is somewhat melted...

 

[ponygt65]

I'd say 75%+ of the time 'burned' out CFLs are a result of using a CFL in a way that is not advised. Like mentioned above (back in MAY. LOL) they are used in BU applications, when they shouldn't be or in enclosed fixtures. MOST cfls (from the cheaper brands) are not rated for BU applications. BUt how many people look at the fine print? Consumers want to buy a CFL and screw it in and be fine (rightfully so) but the lower cost brands are cheaper for a reason. They cut corners where they can and minimize the applications.

PLEASE double check the application script before installing.

EOLP is pretty much industry standard now.

And I NEVER buy LOA products.

 

[Beamhead]

Update:

Well, I found out the bulb he had which caught fire turned out to be a Lights of America.

I avoid those at all costs. Philips and Feit are my choice.

 

[ponygt65]

I avoid those at all costs. Philips and Feit are my choice.

every one has a right to their opinion, but you couldn't pay me to buy a Feit lamp. Not even an Incand.

 

[Troubleshooter]

That's odd. I find the Feit lamps to be the most reliable.

But I have had the burnt smell with every lamp that failed, regardless of brand.

I think the barn light exploded like that due to condensation inside the ballast.

The three-way switch to avoid is the kind for a three-way light bulb socket, not the three-way switches on the wall for controlling a light from two places in the room. The contact ring for the second filament interferes with cooling the lamp ballast through the screw shell.

A fluorescent lamp, CFL or regular, is good for about 6500 starts. That is, it will last until you turn it on about 6500 times. But power line sags count as starts. Those life ratings on the packages are totally bogus, because the amount of time you leave a fluorescent lamp on has very little to do with how long it lasts.

One way the CFLs burn out fast is when they are controlled by motion detectors. A motion detector in a high traffic area will start the lamp many times a day. I find I have to change them once every 1.5 years, but that is still better (in terms of the number of times I have to get out a ladder and climb up to them) than incandescents.

 

[ponygt65]

That's odd. I find the Feit lamps to be the most reliable.

But I have had the burnt smell with every lamp that failed, regardless of brand.

I think the barn light exploded like that due to condensation inside the ballast.

The three-way switch to avoid is the kind for a three-way light bulb socket, not the three-way switches on the wall for controlling a light from two places in the room. The contact ring for the second filament interferes with cooling the lamp ballast through the screw shell.

A fluorescent lamp, CFL or regular, is good for about 6500 starts. That is, it will last until you turn it on about 6500 times. But power line sags count as starts. Those life ratings on the packages are totally bogus, because the amount of time you leave a fluorescent lamp on has very little to do with how long it lasts.

One way the CFLs burn out fast is when they are controlled by motion detectors. A motion detector in a high traffic area will start the lamp many times a day. I find I have to change them once every 1.5 years, but that is still better (in terms of the number of times I have to get out a ladder and climb up to them) than incandescents.

I agree...(well except the Feit part obviously LOL). Alot of 'brand name' mnfg's are going to hour per start ratings of fluorescents for that very reason.

and yes..Motion sensors are not good...pending setup. Bathrooms and offices though, I'd use. (pending traffic flow of the bathroom and office space/room obviously).

 

[RODALCO]

I haven taken some failed CFL lamps apart and these appear to have a 10 ohm resistor in series with the supply.
This will act as a in-line fuse and will go open circuit when the lamp current increases during a fault.

In above cases the 10 ohm R was still ok but other parts on the board failed. Electrolytic 85°C rated.
No burnmarks though.

Our mains is 230 Volts 50 Hertz.

 

[bhvm]

I am using Phillips PL series (India) for all of my house. I have'nt seen an Incandescent bulb since my birth (i am 20 now)

These PL series have a replaceable tube and a seperate Choke/ballast. As the ballast is designed to be re-used, Its very well made and efficient too.

I am yet to see one burn up like that!

 

[bevhoward]

Found this forum while researching reports of CFL failure related fires.

Related issue... I have wanted to, but been unable to make the switch to CFL's for the most part since they were first released.

The main reason for not being able to use more than a few CFLs is that our entire house is wired almost entirely with remote controlled dimmer switches.

If I put a CFL in any of these circuits, even if I assure that the dimmer function of the controlling switch is not used, the CFL's circuit board fails explosively within a couple of days of use.

The two brands that I can document failing are Feit and GE... both which have UL listings.

Beverly Howard

 

[PhotonWrangler]

Hi Beverly,

Philips makes a version of CFL bulbs that are made specifically for dimmer circuits. I've seen them at one of the large home improvement stores. You might want to try one of those out.

pw

 

[bevhoward]

>> phillips dimmable <<

Thanks for the prompt... From your prompt, I searched and found this which seems to indicated that dimmables are now more widely available.

The $40 price of one 10 pack I tracked down from this page also indicates that the price is falling although I have not seen any reasonably priced dimmables on local shelves.

Thanks again,
Beverly Howard

 

[PhotonWrangler]

MAke sure you try out one of them before buying a case of them. My early experience with a dimmable CFL was not good - it didn't burn out but it didn't dim either. That was several years ago and I believe they've got this all figured out now, but it doesn't hurt to dip your toes in and test the waters first.

Good luck and let us know how it works out!

 

[bevhoward]

>> some don't dim <<

Good suggestion... thanks.

In my case, the light not dimming is not that important since what I am looking for is a CFL that will simply "survive" when powered by a dimmer switch.

Beverly Howard

 

[aruzinsky]

I avoid those at all costs. Philips and Feit are my choice.

Feit and Buyer's Choice bulbs are made in China. I looked at a Lights of America bulb, model 2725, and box and couldn't find any statement of where the bulb was manufactured. Isn't not providing such information on the label against the law? Anyway, according to,

http://www.lightsofamerica.com/Products/2725.aspx

it is made in China. For all you know, they are all from the same manufacturer.

I had one Feit bulb blow a fuse. The bulb itself had no visible damage.

Although there are some major brand CFL bulbs that are cheap because the cost is subsidized by my local electric power company, all are warm white whereas I want daylight. Thus, I buy Feit or Buyer's Choice daylight bulbs.