Coleman rocks a new WARM lantern!

Poppy

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I didn't find a 6.0v power supply with folding plug, but I did find a 5.0v, a 6.5v, and a 7.0v.

I think the 6.5v is totally the way to go.

If I would up buying three of the lanterns and getting them modded for DC...
if we figure each one uses three watts, three of them would be nine watts.

I could leave them running, on high, 24/7 and never walk into a dark room at only a negligible
increase in household energy consumption and electrical cost.

EDIT: Does anyone think a 6.5v power supply would hurt the driver? I wouldn't think 0.5v extra would harm it, I would think it might just draw a little less current. But I really am not sure.

I don't know which is better 6.5 or 5.0 volts. I would say that 5.0 is certainly within the specs. because the batteries will drop down to that. I did a run-time test on the Ozark Trail 300 lumen lantern that runs on 3D cells, and tracked the ma and voltage. Even though the batteries were a little over 1.5 volts at start, when under-load, they produced or delivered less than 1.5 volts each.
On one of those energizer lanterns with light fusion technology, I connected a USB cable to the battery box, and ran it on a 5V usb output power pack, and it ran fine. It is a 6V lantern.
 

LEDAdd1ct

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I am not the most knowledgeable guy, by a long shot, on LED drivers.

Here is my guesswork:

I am assuming the lantern uses only one LED.

If it only uses one LED, then at the specified 175 lumens, the forward voltage of the LED can't be very high at all.

Is this is true, here are my guesses.

1) If the lantern uses a linear regulator, then it just burns off any excess voltage. So, a 5.0v supply would be better than a 6.5v supply, because there would be less to "get rid of."

2) The thing is, the lantern uses a knob to hard switch between modes. That doesn't suggest very intelligent circuitry or regulation, just resistors.

3) If this is true, would these be current limiting resistors? Would that mean 5.0v would be better, as it would "burn" less current...?

I am waiting to hear back from my contact "Down Under" about getting one of these...
 
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Phaserburn

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I suspect it is resistored. I would think 6.5v would push more current than 5v, not less.

Resistored doesn't = bad in a light like this. Get away from CPF where a user might be in serious need of reliability and long term use with AC chargers or hookup, or even battery changes, and it's the winner vs a regulated light.
 

kaichu dento

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This is still the only store-shelf lantern I'd care to own aside from the Favourlight/40426. Warm tint really should be the default for a lantern.
Warm should be the default for many other applications as well, lanterns especially so.

In my friend's motor home the other night I kept thinking this while he showed off all the LED lights and his proudest item, the cold, harsh bluish tinted lantern. :(
 

Richwouldnt

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Remember guys that any 6V lantern (four alkaline cells) can also run on four NiMH batteries and their voltage will be a lot closer to 5V, or even a bit lower, than the no load 6V of fresh alkalines. Once under maximum load the alkalines will drop to as low or lower voltage than the NiMH batteries if the current draw is substantial.

Amazon has a seller now offering a small 110 Lumens warm white 3AA lantern listed for $19.99. Per one review it looks like a rebadged Favourlight LTC-1613AA-W. Being sold as the "CREE 40426 110 Lumens Bright Light CREE XLamp Warm White Camping LED Lantern".
 

LEDAdd1ct

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Does anyone have pictures of the bottom of the lantern?

Is it all plastic, or partly metal?

I am thinking about where a hole could be drilled for the DC jack...
 

angerdan

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Who would like to create some comparison images of the coleman and an Fenix CL Lantern?
 

LEDAdd1ct

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I took receipt of two of these today, fresh off the boat (plane?) from Australia.

My thoughts:

Most of the modern Coleman LED lanterns fail to impress me. The build quality is very shoddy and one model I checked out in the store, I think it was a "Rugged" model, felt so cheap I thought the battery compartment/lid might fall apart in my hand. This lantern is built better than that, but, not night and day better.

The output selector switch on the "Rugged" model felt exceedingly flimsy. The output selector switch on this model is better, but, again, not by a tremendous amount. I firmly believe low should have been placed next to the "OFF" position so that the user would go to low first to conserve battery life rather than jump straight to high.

The difference between low and high is noticeable, but, not huge.

Now, for the important part, the beam quality and tint!

The tint is simply outstanding. I wouldn't quite call it warm but I wouldn't quite call it neutral; if all my flashlights had this tint, I think I would be quite pleased! It (the one out of the two I tested) has absolutely no blue or green, but, I wouldn't quite call it yellow either, maybe 80% white with a "just right" hint of yellow.

As far as glare goes, the outside diffuser does a pretty good job of cutting back the glare, but, it isn't perfect.
I remember one CPF'er stating that he/she preferred ceiling bounce because inevitably, with lanterns, your eye gets drawn to the light,
and *POOF*, there goes any night vision you might have acquired.

I have to say that the 5mm(?) yellow LEDs in the special nightlight mode are simply outstanding. They are absolutely yellow/amber, no doubt about it. It takes maybe five to eight minutes for your eyes to adjust, and then, you can navigate a dark room using just those yellow/amber LEDs. Waking up in the middle of the night to use the restroom/shower, you could definitely get around with them.

Additional Musings:

The battery compartment strikes me as being needlessly complicated, though that is the tradeoff for being able to use their rechargeable battery pack, which gets largely panned in online reviews. I fear the outer plastic globe will get easily scratched unless the lantern is babied. I wish it had an external jack for a separate battery.

Was it worth importing from Australia? I would say "Yes." While not the definition of rock solid build quality, the mechanical, rotary selector switch doesn't have parasitic drain like an electronic switch does. With only resistors at play, there are no complicated electronics or drivers to fail. Given how hard it was to obtain this lantern (well, I mean, not especially "hard"...just pricey), I would hesitate to use it outside. I think I will probably get one modded to use a 6V/12V power source from outside the lantern, and keep one stock for "D" cell alkaline use. However, given that I just found a 6D Maglite with a special Malkoff ruined by leaking alkalines (my fault as I should have removed and discarded the cells years ago), I am hesitant to put/run alkalines in these lanterns.

Are there newer/more efficient LEDs/LED lanterns out there? Yes. Is it nice to get something and not have to mess with it? Absolutely! I still need to try the Bushnell lantern, and see how it compares with respect to tint, output, and glare, with tint/glare (or lack thereof) being more important to me than absolute output.

The final (and most important) question to me is

"How do I feel when sitting down in the living room bathed in the light from this lantern?"

And the answer is "Pretty darn good!" :)
 
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Jamessoync

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Coleman rocks a new WARM lantern

Ive given up on getting a set of a lantern and stove from the fall of 1961 there are rabid Collectors out there, you know. So I am getting the same lantern as shown here, to match the new dual-fuel stove I bought last month. Forget the old memories- make new ones However, that said, the hiss of the Coleman at night, and the smell of the naptha are memories that I dont wish to part with.
 

LEDAdd1ct

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Re: Coleman rocks a new WARM lantern

I loved these lanterns while I owned them. The tint is just so, so nice.

I sold them at a major loss because alkalines have no place in my lights. :-(
 
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