Curious little $3 1xAA at AutoZone

flatline

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AutoZone had a display full of 1xAA flashlights that claimed 50L with 3h runtime. I was in a hurry, so I grabbed 2 out of curiosity without really looking at them. When I got home, I realized they're far more interesting than I had anticipated.

The head is wide for a AA light, perhaps 1.25". Has shallow crenelations, a deep looking reflector, and a single off-center LED. The body is translucent plastic with a metal tube running down the middle for the battery. The tail has 8 flats for anti-roll and the bottom is flat with three magnets in it and a recessed reverse clicky switch. It tailstands perfectly and is moderately anti-roll. The magnets are strong enough to hold the light to a flat metal surface in any orientation, but only if all 3 magnets can connect.

The light has 4 modes. Every time you interrupt power or turn it on, it advances to the next mode (annoying...but not unexpected from a $3 light).

Mode 1: regular flashlight. Probably not the advertised 50L, but at least 30L. The beam is ugly. Lots of rings, and while the hot spot and spill are both white, the corona is really, REALLY yellow. Clearly noticeable on any surface, not just white wall hunting.

Mode 2: white LEDs on the bottom inside edge of the head cause the plastic body to light up as a lantern. It isn't a good lantern, but it'll light up a card table.

Mode 3: like mode 2, but this time the LEDs are red. Too dim to be used as a lantern, but the light itself would be visible for some distance on a dark night.

Mode 4: like mode 3, but this time it's flashing 2 or 3 times a second. Clearly another beacon mode.

The light feels pretty solid. I haven't had any flickering issues in any modes, even when I shake it or smack it against my palm (I'm not going to do drop tests on a $3 light). The switch works well. I don't know anything about the driver, but it's clearly not direct drive since it runs on 1xAA and has multiple modes.

I'm sure it's a piece of junk, but it works. It would be better without the extra modes, but perhaps they add value for someone stranded on the side of the road.

--flatline
 

FLfrk

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Pics? Brand? The constant mode cycling is usually a big turn off for me, but for $3 that's hard to complain about.
 

flatline

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The light has no identifying marks on it and I did not have time to look at the display beyond noticing the 50L for 3h claim.

If I have time tonight, I'll see if I can figure out how to post pics.

--flatline
 

RetroTechie

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The constant mode cycling is usually a big turn off for me, but for $3 that's hard to complain about.
Next-mode memory is annoying enough to complain about at ANY price. :sick2: Have 2 of such lights. One was a purchase where (iirc) light had a different mode setting than advertised. The other was found between a bunch of items dumped next to a recycling bin.

Personally: if one gets tossed in my lap, okay. But I will never, ever again pay for a light that has it. Only exception would be if I know what driver board is in it, know that it's easy to replace, and the purchase is still worthwhile with cost (+ effort) of a replacement driver included.
 

Lynx_Arc

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Next mode memory can be "fixed" if you want to tear the light apart and get to the driver and tinker with it. There are plenty of decent Ebay lights that cost under $5 that don't have NMM I have 3 lights that don't have it from the start one is a single mode lipstick looking light and the other 2 are COB/LED lights.
 

flatline

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If I had had time to play with these lights before purchasing, I probably wouldn't have bought them due to the next mode memory. However, I don't regret the purchase. It's informative to play with a light that is, presumably, representative of what the non-flashaholic crowd is buying. After all, the display at AutoZone was mostly empty.

Anyways, I'll use the light until the battery it came with is consumed (as is my convention any time I buy a new light) and then it'll probably go into the bucket of loaners unless one of the kids wants it.

--flatline
 

flatline

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I just discovered that the light does eventually reset to the flashlight mode, but it has to be off for at least a minute, maybe more.
 

flatline

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Some experimentation this morning shows that it takes roughly 30 minutes to reset back to the first mode (aka flashlight). There's probably a capacitor that is powering the mode memory and when the capacitor leaks down to nothing, the light reverts back to the flashlight mode.

If this is true, then if I could put a resistor across the capacitor, I could shorten the reset time. If I shorted the capacitor, I might even be disabling the modes that I don't want making the flashlight a single-mode flashlight.

Probably not worth the effort...
 

Lynx_Arc

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Or you could just do the pencil trick. Get to the circuit board and rub a pencil over the capacitors and the lead will act as a resistor to help drain off the charge faster.. I've done several NMM lights with the pencil trick.
 

flatline

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I can't get the head open...but if I do, I'll give the pencil trick a try. Thanks for the tip!
 

bykfixer

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Capacitor, aye? Hmmm.
All this time I had figured lights like this one had a rotary device where each click advanced a tip of some sort that at it's next spot pushed against something that then made a circuit. Push button again it rotates to the next position.
But then again I just installed a microwave last year.
 

Lynx_Arc

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NMM or Next Mode Memory is a problem with poorly designed digital switching circuitry that doesn't differentiate a change of mode when the light is shut off completely so when it is turned back on it assumes it is just another mode bump at the same time. The only way to change this behavior is to bleed off the charge on the capacitor when the light is shut off. The pencil trick puts a resistance on top of the capacitor by bridging it with graphite. It is a trial and error fix if you don't get enough it won't work and too much will have it not switching right. It is easily reversible just wipe off the graphite. I've dropped a light hard that had the pencil trick done and it must have knocked some of it off as it started taking several minutes to forget the mode after I shut the light off.
 

RetroTechie

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All this time I had figured lights like this one had a rotary device where each click advanced a tip of some sort that at it's next spot pushed against something that then made a circuit. Push button again it rotates to the next position.
Wasn't sure if you're kidding... :) But for example with an aluminium, tail switch equipped light you can see it doesn't work that way: there's only a return path for the current (flashlight body), battery + switch complete the circuit. So there's no way to encode different modes mechanically as it would require more wiring. This limitation does not apply to lights with a side switch as in that case switch & electronics are in the same place so numerous wires could be running in between. In practice that's an on/off switch too, driver circuit determines how that is used.

These days there's a small CPU in (almost) everything, and flashlights are no exception. In general it's more reliable, mechanically simpler (for some definitions of "simple" ;) ), and most importantly: cheaper. For example those CR2032 candle LEDs: I've read the flickering effect is actually done using a digital processor of some kind. Imagine a long list of values written in a table, with each value representing the LED's brightness at a given point in time. A position counter steps through the list of values, and 'applies' brightness value to the LED. List length is short enough to not take much memory, but long enough so that humans can't discern a repeating pattern unless measuring + recording equipment is thrown at it (side note: some kind of random number generator would do as well). I'm not sure if that digital logic is a simple counter, or a small general-purpose CPU with program in ROM. But you get the idea. In this case it's all integrated with the LED.

In high enough volume (think 100k+), such IC's can become dirt cheap. For some background, see for example: The 3 cent microcontroller!. In this case the program is in ROM, read: buyer uses some sort of development kit to produce the firmware, factory puts it in & that's it. Starting around the $0.10 mark, you'll have options to enter your own firmware @ home, possibly re-writeable (flash) rather than just write-once (One Time Programmable). This kind of thing seems to be a popular hobby for the folks over on BLF. :cool:
 

Lynx_Arc

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Wasn't sure if you're kidding... :) But for example with an aluminium, tail switch equipped light you can see it doesn't work that way: there's only a return path for the current (flashlight body), battery + switch complete the circuit. So there's no way to encode different modes mechanically as it would require more wiring.

Actually they do make a mechanical switch that is a SPDT or 2 position switch that I've seen in tailcaps or side switched in lights at times that is a clicky (push button). You could get 2 modes out of it using a resistor on one mode and without one on another for low/high.
 
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