dedomed a xm-l with success

[saabluster]

SaabLuster, could you tell if the phosphor was suspended in silicone too, or if it might have been a different material? Perhaps a solvent or digester ought to be researched. The Nichia (not a cree, but I don't think I've seen this type of info on a cree DS) datasheet I have actually tells what the different parts' substrate materials are, generically, i.e. dome is silicone (doesn't say what it's doped with, or if it even HAS any additives), phosphor layer is phosphor suspended in silicone.

Yes Cree uses silicone as a binder for the phosphor. This means that any attempts to dissolve the dome away also dissolve the phosphor layer.

I had promised to do the beamshots but i didn't , i am planning to go out tomorrow for this.
If i understood well, you need two beamshots, from a dedomed xm-l led and a normal xm-l , facing a white wall to see the difference?From what angle?
I clearly measured 20-30% lumen drop output. I think that, as current increases, the difference gets higher. It is logical up to one point, i believe that the energy from the lost lumens is converted into heat, so we get higher temperatures on the core and a another performance drop. I am waiting for saablaster to confirm this statement.

It does increase heat but it hasn't affected the maximum drive levels as much as I had anticipated.

Im curious if dedoming helps as much in say a p60/D26 sized reflector as much
as it does with an Aspheric. Maybe Vinh or Dave would start offering this as an option?

thanks for posting your results!!

Yes it makes a big difference with reflectors as well. I am about to begin offering just this. Hang tight

 

[psychbeat]

Yes it makes a big difference with reflectors as well. I am about to begin offering just this. Hang tight

Keep us posted!

 

[mvyrmnd]

I realise this thread is quite old, but I'm about to replace the emitter in a light, and decided to de-dome the old one for giggles.

I was very, very careful, and picked apart the dome with a very, very sharp knife and a pair of tweezers. The last part of the dome broke off, and still remains covering the bond wires, and I'm not game to try and get it off, so there's a minor artifact in the beam because of it, but I'd call it a 99% success. I sliced straight through the top of the dome, leaving about 1mm of (now flat) silicon covering the die. Then I used the knife to lift the silicon on 3 sides (I didn't want to break the bond wires) then picked it off with the tweezers. It came off in one chunk, minus the bit still covering the wires.

Some pics

I have no means of measuring the output or lux increase or whatnot, but the spot is now half the size it used to be on my office wall, and it hurts even more to look at.

I'm pretty sure this scraggy Ultrafire HD2010 will now keep up with some of the big boys for lux, if nor sheer output.