Dissecting an MC-E

65535

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Remote phosphor placement. Normally the phosphor is on the die pretty much, what if you used fiber optics or something to take the light the die produces and shine it on the phosphor but in a way that the phosphor could be closer to the focus area than an entire die.
 

LEDmodMan

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Reminds me of some of the destroyed Luxeon V's many years back. Heh heh. There were even a few of us who blew up "X" binned ones (the rarest of the rare). :green: Great pics BTW.

How sure are you guys that the Cree domes are made of glass? I can't find anything in the literature to support this. I know the domes on Luxeons were plastic of some sort. Just curious. TIA.
 

LEDmodMan

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Wow, that's pretty sure then. Interesting. Glass should certainly pass more light than plastic in general. Thanks!

PS - Garland huh? I was in Saginaw for 5 1/2 years till summer '07. Too bad I never got to meet you!
 

Nemozoli

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Hey saa,

A thought; would a thin strong adhesive applied around the dome to glue it to the plastic base hold the dome on enough to grind and man handle the led?

Hi!

I would say: it would hold the glass dome in place, because that is just what I had to do with my MC-E's. I was trying to put two LED's side by side each other, so that they would have a "mixed" throw beneath an aspherical glass lens. Whilst glueing the aspherical lens in place I noted that the solvent of the glue used (presumably the ethyl-acetate part) acted upon the silicone gel, separating it from the chips... :( this was unpleasant news, never before has this glue done this before with any kind of LED I met...

So I got some "bubbles" in the LED with reflective (air-silicone) surfaces.
I cleaned some of the gel and tried to add a transparent epoxy to fix the glass domes, but it wouldn't tolerate the heat and soon became yellow-tinted, just like the light it let through. :shakehead

My next try was more successful: I peeled the tinted epoxy from the silicone gel and fixed the domes on their "perimeters" with a very strong two-component epoxy (this one seems to tolerate heat a lot better than the other one), while applying pressure (using a vise :grin2: ) to the domes to eliminate bubbles beneath them.

Now the glass domes are concrete-like set in place, I could even sand down part of one side of the domes to put them closer to each other. I wouldn't sand/polish down the glass dome, because it would prove to be quite a bit of a challenge to polish a perfectly smooth, flat lens-like surface on such a small piece of glass...

Keep up the good work!

Nemo
 

R33E8

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Not yet sorry.. I'm supposed to be meeting with them to get involved in some research projects and the person organizing it is trying to find a time we are both free.. Hopefully soon though :)
 

R33E8

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Well I have some bad news..

The bad news is the professor I talked to has no experience with applying quantum dots to things, only making them for medical purposes.. He doesn't seem to know too much about LEDs general but he does know the different parts when explained like the phosphor, semiconductor die, etc..

Some interesting news is the quantum dots they make emit a wide range of wavelengths that are like 100nm wide.. I think that would be good for LEDs...

Some cool news for me is that I may join his research team (currently only one other person on it) to help develop a way to use the quantum dots with LEDs... So maybe in the future I could help out a bit more once I understand them better..
:)

Sorry I couldn't get any info that could help you for now...
 

Ryanrpm

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bezel041.jpg


Very interesting! I plan to try and take the good die out of this package and mount it directly to a piece of solid silver with my special epoxy. More will come when I can find the time.


Just wondering of you've found the 'time'??:wave::poke:
 

R33E8

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I'm waiting on some quantum dots before I do any more on this.

:whistle:

If you are waiting on mine, I'm just trying to figure out a simple way to measure CRI from spectrometer readings before I continue fine tuning them.. Hopefully I should have a lot more time to do so over the summer ..
 

saabluster

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:whistle:

If you are waiting on mine, I'm just trying to figure out a simple way to measure CRI from spectrometer readings before I continue fine tuning them.. Hopefully I should have a lot more time to do so over the summer ..
I am indeed waiting on yours. I even bought some special encapsulating silicone made for LEDs for this very project. No rush though as I am very busy at the moment.:thumbsup:
 

Illum

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well...this certainly has stuffed the chip weevils in the can hasn't it...

you better clean up after yourself! those domes are semipermeable and its only a matter of time before the eggs gets attracted to those LEDs you have lying about:eek::shrug:
 

HarryN

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A good method to place the dots is similar to what PL does - make it into a ceramic, them adhesive it on.

The other method, modeled after LEDEngin, is to put on a clear ceramic window, then put the phos / dots on that. Much easier.

The mixing of the dots (or phos) is really challenging, but it has been done before. In addition to clumping, they like to settle out. It is almost as if they will not wet. Perhaps if you find a silicone that is designed to adhere stongly to glass it would help.
 

saabluster

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Not that the MC-E is of much interest to anyone anymore but I just thought I'd add a couple pictures to this old thread. I have been harvesting LEDs and took this picture just to show how the MC-E is constructed a little better. The four dies are placed on a very thin ceramic chip that is metalized and then soldered down to the main copper heatsink. I also notice the use of multiple layers of silicone of varying index to improve light extraction. Nothing new there.

leds047-2.jpg


leds049-1.jpg
 
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