Driver FET/magnetic sensor retrofit

[m.pille.led]

Good afternoon,
I am triyng to repair a couple of chinese torches, where water came inside due to bad design.
I am planing to buy a new driver, the leds are ok!
I will glue the front glass lens in ( the place the water comes in).
This is the king of torch
http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/...-XM-L-T6-LED-Waterproof-Diver/1606131821.html#


The problem I have is the switch, it is a magnetic slide switch, I do not need the dimm efect.
All I want a switch for ON and OFF

Is there a FET to retrofit on any driver?
Or any other idea on how to switch?

Thanks guys!
Regards

PS: I am not handy when it comes to circuit board design and assembly.

 

[Str8stroke]

Probably not gonna be easy. Personally, I would buy another light.

Assuming you get it working...and don't give up. lol

Perhaps look to see if you can find a tail cap with a switch that will work.

OR this rig may work, slide the switch to the on position, then super glue it to the max on, then cut it off and seal it up with silicon in the on position. Basically, figure out what way to lock it on and seal it up.

Then, turn the light on and off by screwing and unscrewing the tail cap.

 

[m.pille.led]

I`ll take that as an option and try it out tomorrow,
The thing is I have something like 4 or 5 at least wich could work again

Buying a new one would be the easyest way for sure
But where is the thrill? Thats why we all are here at CPF to learn and and have fun (sometimes blowing up drivers......not so much of a fun....)

 

[Str8stroke]

I forgot to mention you could run the LED direct drive. Meaning straight off the battery. I wouldn't run it extended time periods. I say this as a option only because you have plenty of spares. Lol

 

[herculino]

Hi, to prevent future leaks, I suggest you to change all the o-rings with new ones from an hydraulic o-rings provider.

Using the tail cap as a switcher may be not an option, I have one quite similar and is you unscrew the tail cap for an one-off use, most probably it will leak.

 

[lucca brassi]

direct drive it is probably not the best idea according double battery inside torch ...2 x 3,7V =7,2 V at the moment ( works with 1x Li or classic 3x C ZnMn 4,5V max )

you can bypass driver , and reconfigure battery from 2S on 2P ( cheap and easy )

For switch .....I think first you have to disassemble it and check all options ( simple fet switch magnet , tailcap push button switch ,twist tailcap switch ....)

 

[m.pille.led]

Running the led directly isn`t an option, It will eventualy burn after a short time. The Xm-l isn`t made for running at 7,4v open circuit.
There are people wich run them at 7v, but controlling the Amps to not exeed more than 12 or 13w (of course with a decent cooling)

Also using the tail cap as switch isn`t the best option.
It might work for a while, but eventualy one day it will defenetly leak!

About driving I was thinking how about to keep the design, and place a magnetic read contact on the magnet full position as a switch?
So when I slide the magnet to the full position it goes on. ( won`t have the dimming steps, and have only ON/OFF )
A normal 2A or 3A read contact should be fine.
( Xm-l runs at 3.3v @ 3A so at 2 18650 cells (7.4v) the drain won`t be higher than 1,5A )

Another option would be an "clickie clickie" switch at the tail.

Does anyone know a good shop who sells them with the right boots?

Thanks for the ideas so far!
Cheers

 

[DIWdiver]

Taskled sells the HallSW and HallTG boards which might work.

A hall sensor and FET would work.

A low current reed switch and FET would also work.