Eagletac now with XHP35 HD, XHP35 HI, and Nichia 219 C hi CRI

[Tachead]

I'm not sure if I have been hiding under a rock, but is there 2 switches on the heads of these lights and is that new? I would prefer something like this over the head twist high medium low of the past. Can someone please explain the UI on these new units or is that yet to be known?

They have been using the duel switch on some models for a while. If you go to their site, then to the model you are interested in, then to specifications, it tells you how the UI works in detail:thumbsup:

 

[noboneshotdog]

They have been using the duel switch on some models for a while. If you go to their site, then to the model you are interested in, then to specifications, it tells you how the UI works in detail:thumbsup:

Thank you

 

[Tachead]

Thank you

Your welcome

 

[noboneshotdog]

Your welcome

I took a look at the website. Not the biggest fan of 2 switches to control UI, but it is definitely a step forward from the twisty UI. The twisty flickers if the threads etc are not spotless. I would definitely give one of these new offerings a try.

 

[markr6]

I said I was done buying lights for a long time...and I haven't. But this has my attention.

MX30L4-C = sill a stupid, flush switch! Same with the MX30L3. I would be interested, but that is a deal breaker for me.
SX30A4 = nice easy to find/press raised switch!

 

[Jauno]

I am Eagletac user from 2012 and i´m glad they didn´t reject twisty interface.
This new two button UI is as worse as many other manufacturer´s "cycle through modes to get what you want" -method.
With the twisty you can get directly what you want and stay it. Try use second brightest level with two button system. Turn the light off and cycle again. And again and again...

EDIT: Just like you need to change car´s gears in order: 1-2-3-4-5. And you can´t change from 5 to 4 without getting whole round. Terrible :thumbsdow

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

I don't think you have the UI down right with the two buttons. When the light is off you can go directly to low with the white button, directly to high with the black button, or directly to any other setting with the white button by pressing it 1, 2, 3 or 4 times in a row from off. When you have the light on you can use the black button for a momentary burst to high.

IMO - it's a great interface and actually having a MX30L3 for about a year with that interface I can tell you it works very well.

Their twisty interface was a unique one and did have a nice benefit of just being able to twist up and down as you desire, but I don't see the new one as a fail.

 

[markr6]

I am Eagletac user from 2012 and i´m glad they didn´t reject twisty interface.
This new two button UI is as worse as many other manufacturer´s "cycle through modes to get what you want" -method.
With the twisty you can get directly what you want and stay it. Try use second brightest level with two button system. Turn the light off and cycle again. And again and again...

EDIT: Just like you need to change car´s gears in order: 1-2-3-4-5. And you can´t change from 5 to 4 without getting whole round. Terrible :thumbsdow

I agree. That's half the reason I sold my MX30L4XC.

 

[Tachead]

I said I was done buying lights for a long time...and I haven't. But this has my attention.

MX30L4-C = sill a stupid, flush switch! Same with the MX30L3. I would be interested, but that is a deal breaker for me.
SX30A4 = nice easy to find/press raised switch!

They do have brail on the switches so they should be easy to feel in the dark and less chance for accidental activation to boot.

 

[markr6]

They do have brail on the switches so they should be easy to feel in the dark and less chance for accidental activation to boot.

Yeah I noticed that. But it's the actual clicking that's a bit difficult to do. The switch on my MX25L3C is raised a lot but nowhere close to being accidentally activated. Total fail on these flat switches IMO.

 

[fpbear]

I am Eagletac user from 2012 and i´m glad they didn´t reject twisty interface.

I guess there are varied opinions on this -- I hate the old twisty interface, and I love the new Eagletac two button interface. That's because the twisty interface made the head come loose and fall off sometimes when I left it in that mode. Twisting the head should be for removing batteries only. I'm glad that I don't have to twist loose the gas cap on my car to make it start. The new two button interface is the best flashlight interface (and I own many flashlights of many different brands).

 

[scs]

I might be in the minority, I dislike both the head-twisting and two-button UI; I like one button, either rear clicky, or side e-switch, rear clicky preferred. I also dislike external screws.
The new lights with rear clicky look quite long.

 

[AB8XL]

I'm a little bummed, I was hoping the TX30C2 would utilize the NV4W144 Nichia, I have a T25C2 with a Triple Nichia 219B drop in and I think the only difference I would see with the new TX30C2 is more spot than flood. Same great Nichia quality light though.

 

[chillinn]

Happy to hear there are now more options beyond the ReyLight Brass for HiCRI 4000K Nichia 219C. This emitter produces a light that is very beautiful, very natural. I was pretty surprised the ReyLight was HiCRI. Initially, unlike most that have previously been anticipating the 219C, I was not expecting it to be HiCRI. The very first 219C offerings were not HiCRI, but also could accept more current, resulting in higher top lumen output.

So this is great news that EagleTac has some HiCRI 219C options for their P, T, S, and M Series flashlights.

Will EagleTac deny the HiCRI 219C love for the M-Series, or especially the D-Series? Do you think they are ramping up, and another anouncement may follow for the unmentioned M- & D-Series?

 

[Mr. Tone]

Happy to hear there are now more options beyond the ReyLight Brass for HiCRI 4000K Nichia 219C. This emitter produces a light that is very beautiful, very natural. I was pretty surprised the ReyLight was HiCRI. Initially, unlike most that have previously been anticipating the 219C, I was not expecting it to be HiCRI. The very first 219C offerings were not HiCRI, but also could accept more current, resulting in higher top lumen output.

So this is great news that EagleTac has some HiCRI 219C options for their P, T, S, and M Series flashlights.

Will EagleTac deny the HiCRI 219C love for the M-Series, or especially the D-Series? Do you think they are ramping up, and another anouncement may follow for the unmentioned M- & D-Series?

I really hope they offer it in more models, too. A triple drop-in would be nice They are getting over 700 OTF of neutral white hi CRI goodness out of the 219C.

 

[Tac Gunner]

So I was doing a little more reading on the TX30C2 and noticed this under the UI section,

• "Programmable startup level - Define the white button startup level by cycling to the desired output level and keep holding the white button for more than five seconds until the blue led indicator turns on."

I'm ok with being able to start in either min or max but it sounds like some of ya'll might like this.

 

[Tachead]

.....

 

[Tachead]

Happy to hear there are now more options beyond the ReyLight Brass for HiCRI 4000K Nichia 219C. This emitter produces a light that is very beautiful, very natural. I was pretty surprised the ReyLight was HiCRI. Initially, unlike most that have previously been anticipating the 219C, I was not expecting it to be HiCRI. The very first 219C offerings were not HiCRI, but also could accept more current, resulting in higher top lumen output.

So this is great news that EagleTac has some HiCRI 219C options for their P, T, S, and M Series flashlights.

Will EagleTac deny the HiCRI 219C love for the M-Series, or especially the D-Series? Do you think they are ramping up, and another anouncement may follow for the unmentioned M- & D-Series?

I agree, I would like to see this 4000K high CRI 219C in the D series.

 

[Tachead]

I'm a little bummed, I was hoping the TX30C2 would utilize the NV4W144 Nichia, I have a T25C2 with a Triple Nichia 219B drop in and I think the only difference I would see with the new TX30C2 is more spot than flood. Same great Nichia quality light though.

You would notice its warmer output as it is at least 500K warmer and you would also notice its much better efficiency. The 219C is more efficient then the 219B to start with but, this is also a single emitter vs. a triple so, your battery would likely last considerably longer at all outputs.

 

[Mr. Tone]

So I was doing a little more reading on the TX30C2 and noticed this under the UI section,

• "Programmable startup level - Define the white button startup level by cycling to the desired output level and keep holding the white button for more than five seconds until the blue led indicator turns on."

I'm ok with being able to start in either min or max but it sounds like some of ya'll might like this.

Nice find, some people will really like that ability.