EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!

[Zdenek]

Thank you, selfbuilt.

 

[Zdenek]

Thank you.

 

[mac1987]

I received my T20C2 II a couple of weeks ago. I love the beam pattern and UI. Still I have two problems with the light:

1. Using a totally 'objective' ceiling bounce test, it doesn't light up the room more than my old Fenix TK11 XR-E Q5 that has 225 lumens. Shouldn't a 75 lumen increase be noticeable? The hotspot of the TK11 is brighter (more focused but known difference between XR-E and XP-G), the spill is larger but the T20C2 has a slightly brighter area around the spot.
2. After a while the light seems to lose contact during turning the head. E.g. when switching from turbo to medium the light goes off and on again and therefore thinks you have twisted the light (turbo-->medium) and it switches to low (without doing turbo-->medium-->turbo) . Cleaning the contacts and taking the parts apart and together again helps for maybe a day, sometimes only a couple of minutes.

Are other people experiencing this kind of behaviour and might the not-perceived increase in lumens have something to do with it losing contact?

 

[Proflash]

I received my T20C2 II a couple of weeks ago. I love the beam pattern and UI. Still I have two problems with the light:

1. Using a totally 'objective' ceiling bounce test, it doesn't light up the room more than my old Fenix TK11 XR-E Q5 that has 225 lumens. Shouldn't a 75 lumen increase be noticeable? The hotspot of the TK11 is brighter (more focused but known difference between XR-E and XP-G), the spill is larger but the T20C2 has a slightly brighter area around the spot.
2. After a while the light seems to lose contact during turning the head. E.g. when switching from turbo to medium the light goes off and on again and therefore thinks you have twisted the light (turbo-->medium) and it switches to low (without doing turbo-->medium-->turbo) . Cleaning the contacts and taking the parts apart and together again helps for maybe a day, sometimes only a couple of minutes.

Are other people experiencing this kind of behaviour and might the not-perceived increase in lumens have something to do with it losing contact?

Just the other night my T20C2 MKII started flickering when changing modes. I tried switching tailcaps, cleaning contacts, etc. but to no avail. There was also a 'gritty' feel when twisting the head.

After unscrewing the head completely and rubbing a q-tip around the threads on the body, I removed some of the blue grease/lubricant that was on there. After replacing the head, the flickering disappeared. I think there may have been some dust or other material on the threads which was interfering with the contact. The funny thing is, that I had never actually removed the head from the light before, and it had always been more of a "drawer king" up until then. I have no idea how anything could have gotten in there...

I can't speak for brightness, but last night was the first time I used it outdoors after the threads were cleaned, and the light seemed to shine both brighter and farther than before .

 

[mac1987]

Thanks for the advice, I have cleaned the threads before but tomorrow i'll clean them again. Hopefully this will work for me as well as it did for you

Update: didn't work unfortunately

 

[Kevin1322]

I have the Olight M20 Warrior Premium R2 and think I have finally decided on pulling the trigger on the T20C2 Mark II. Before I get the RGB kit or the extra tail standing tailcap, I was wondering if anyone can answer these questions: Do the filters for the M20 fit the T20?

Well I did pull the trigger and I did get the light, so I'll answer my own question in case it helps someone else. The filters for the M20 will fit over the head, but they fit very loose and would fall off quite easily.

Man, I really love this light. :twothumbs Just got it today but I am really impressed with, well, pretty much all of it. I know the question was asked earlier about where to attach the lanyard. I took the hook and ring off of the lanyard and just looped it under the belt clip. By pulling it between the back of the clip and the cigar grip it stays in place and should work pretty well. One criticism though, I do like the holster for the M20 better. It would be great if they developed that holster, but instead of two battery holders, have one on one side and have a place for the filters on the other side so you could always have them with you. That would be perfect IMO.

 

[selfbuilt]

Written by mac1987 on 11-02-2010 07:00 AM GMT

@Kevin1322:

Those are two amazing lights (M20 and T20C2 II)! I find it funny btw how much they look alike. They even have the same screw-in bezel.

How do you find the Eagletac compared to the Olight regarding build-quality and light output ?

Written by selfbuilt on 11-02-2010 07:21 AM GMT

Well I did pull the trigger and I did get the light, so I'll answer my own question in case it helps someone else. The filters for the M20 will fit over the head, but they fit very loose and would fall off quite easily.

Confirmed, just tried in on mine as well. The T20C2-II Mark II head is just a little too small for the Olight M20 filers. Confirmed, just tried in on mine as well. The T20C2-II Mark II head is just a little too small for the Olight M20 filers.

Written by Kevin1322 on 11-02-2010 03:49 PM GMT

@Kevin1322:

Those are two amazing lights (M20 and T20C2 II)! I find it funny btw how much they look alike. They even have the same screw-in bezel.

How do you find the Eagletac compared to the Olight regarding build-quality and light output ?

I was kind of upset when I first saw the EagleTac T20C2 as I felt, IMO, they "stole" the design of the M20. However, after talking with Olight reps, offering suggestions to them (as I know others did), and them not making changes, I have changed my mind. Maybe EagleTac did take the design (I don't know that they did or didn't), but they obviously have been listening to their buyers/customers and have been making changes. IMO, they have taken the design of the M20 and greatly improved on it. To me, overall it is a superior light and a better buy, though I'm sure others might disagree. Don't get me wrong, my M20 isn't going anywhere; it's definetly a premium light and I love it! I was kind of upset when I first saw the EagleTac T20C2 as I felt, IMO, they "stole" the design of the M20. However, after talking with Olight reps, offering suggestions to them (as I know others did), and them not making changes, I have changed my mind. Maybe EagleTac did take the design (I don't know that they did or didn't), but they obviously have been listening to their buyers/customers and have been making changes. IMO, they have taken the design of the M20 and greatly improved on it. To me, overall it is a superior light and a better buy, though I'm sure others might disagree. Don't get me wrong, my M20 isn't going anywhere; it's definetly a premium light and I love it!

As far as bezels, the bezel in my ET will not thread in the M20, but the M20 will thread into the ET. :thinking: Bummer, as I would have liked to use the ET filters in the M20.

Build quality? I like the M20 better. Better fit and finish IMO. I've had it for a year and very few marks on it. The ET I've only had for 24 hrs and it already has little pinhead marks on it where you can see silver. Maybe it came that way, but even if it did, my M20 didn't. I really like the olive color better too, but that has nothing to do with the quality haha.

Light Output? No surprise the ET XR-E is brighter than the M20 XR-E as the ET is pushing the LED harder (and obviously the XP-G is too). However, because of this the M20 will last longer on a set of batteries, so it's a give and take. I personally like the cool white vs. the neutral coloring in LEDs better (as many have expressed, many of the M20s have a slight greenish tint to them, or at least they used to a year ago) so I definitly like the ET tints better. The ET XR-E does have a tighter hotspot and clearly throws farther than the M20 XR-E (this is just using my eye going off of walls and trees in my neighborhood in Phoenix with lots of ambient light). Surprisingly to me, the throw of the ET XP-G will send light to the farthest tree (barely) at about 265 feet away, but of course lights up the back yard much better. The M20 XR-E will hit the farthest tree better, but not by much. The ET XR-E puts enough light on it that you can see the definition of the palm leaves (that's right, I'm in a desert, we have palm trees, haha).

That's probably more info than you wanted haha, but I thought it better to do too much than not enough. Besides, someone might benefit from it, right?

Written by mac1987 on 11-03-2010 06:49 AM GMT

Thanks for the info! You can never have too much of it IMO

Written by selfbuilt on 11-03-2010 08:32 AM GMT

Thanks for the info! You can never have too much of it IMO

True enough - and I encourage people to share the experiences and perspectives in these review threads. True enough - and I encourage people to share the experiences and perspectives in these review threads.

One point for clarification - both the M20 and Eagletac T20C2-II come in XR-E R2 and XP-G R5 versions. It's difficult to compare across emitter types, but there are beamshots in my 100-yard round-up of all the lights I have on hand. Note that the lights I've reviewed have come in at different times, and there may be update/upgrades to specific models over time.

I haven't tested the Olight M20 XP-G R5 version yet, so cannot comment on how it compares. However,in practice, I doubt you would find any noticeable difference in output between the Eagletac and Olight models of the same emitter. I think the choice really comes down to the user interface, build preference, and extras.

Written by Kevin1322 on 11-03-2010 02:54 PM GMT

One point for clarification - both the M20 and Eagletac T20C2-II come in XR-E R2 and XP-G R5 versions. It's difficult to compare across emitter types, but there are beamshots in my 100-yard round-up of all the lights I have on hand. Note that the lights I've reviewed have come in at different times, and there may be update/upgrades to specific models over time.

Well, IMHO, I think they can be compared, but with the understanding that they are designed for different things. I was trying to be careful to make it understood which emitters I was talking about in the prior thread so people understood that I might be talking about different emitters, but as I re-read it I realized I did not actually clarify emitter types (and you are of course right that some M20s do have the XP-G R5 now). So I did add that in to clarify as well as some other points. Thanks for pointing that out. Well, IMHO, I think they can be compared, but with the understanding that they are designed for different things. I was trying to be careful to make it understood which emitters I was talking about in the prior thread so people understood that I might be talking about different emitters, but as I re-read it I realized I did not actually clarify emitter types (and you are of course right that some M20s do have the XP-G R5 now). So I did add that in to clarify as well as some other points. Thanks for pointing that out. :thumbsup:

Written by wwp1 on 11-04-2010 01:21 AM GMT

I love my eagletac t20c2 only problem I have is finish is not sturdy

Written by Kevin1322 on 11-04-2010 12:19 PM GMT

For those that have (if any) the rubber addapter tail standing piece and the actual optional tail standing tailcap, which do you prefer?

I think I'll answer this one too now. I didn't get the optional tail standing tailcap, but I think I can still say that I prefer the rubber adapter better for these reasons: 1. I have short, stubby fingers. So non-tailstanding clicky switches are easier for me than the ones that are. While I have the rubber adapter on now while at the house, it's nice that it can come on and off easily for when I don't want to use it (say camping...the sky doesn't give much "bounce" haha). Granted, I could do the same with the two switches, but this is smaller to carry. 2. The rubber adapter makes it much easier on my teeth when holding the light with my mouth. I think I'll answer this one too now. I didn't get the optional tail standing tailcap, but I think I can still say that I prefer the rubber adapter better for these reasons: 1. I have short, stubby fingers. So non-tailstanding clicky switches are easier for me than the ones that are. While I have the rubber adapter on now while at the house, it's nice that it can come on and off easily for when I don't want to use it (say camping...the sky doesn't give much "bounce" haha). Granted, I could do the same with the two switches, but this is smaller to carry. 2. The rubber adapter makes it much easier on my teeth when holding the light with my mouth. :thumbsup: 3. It's free, comes with the light and I don't have to pay extra. :naughty: Just my thoughts in case anybody else has this question.

Written by speedster on 11-04-2010 12:54 PM GMT

Im sorry if this has been asked before but has anyone ever noticed the red lights in the outdoor pictures? What are they?

Written by Kevin1322 on 11-04-2010 01:57 PM GMT

Im sorry if this has been asked before but has anyone ever noticed the red lights in the outdoor pictures? What are they?

I'm guessing it's a radio/transmiting tower. Red lights are on them so helicopters and planes don't run into them at night. I'm guessing it's a radio/transmiting tower. Red lights are on them so helicopters and planes don't run into them at night.

Written by selfbuilt on 11-04-2010 03:05 PM GMT

I didn't get the optional tail standing tailcap, but I think I can still say that I prefer the rubber adapter better for these reasons:

I agree, the rubber tailstanding is quite versatile. If you plan to do a lot of tailstanding, then the solid metal one is probably better. But for occasional use, it's actually quite a clever idea (and it is included!) I agree, the rubber tailstanding is quite versatile. If you plan to do a lot of tailstanding, then the solid metal one is probably better. But for occasional use, it's actually quite a clever idea (and it is included!)

I'm guessing it's a radio/transmiting tower. Red lights are on them so helicopters and planes don't run into them at night.

Yes indeed, that's it exactly. I explained it in the preamble to the my Yes indeed, that's it exactly. I explained it in the preamble to the my 100-yard round-up thread.

That's what I get for scoping out the location in daylight - I couldn't see the towers! But the long shutter on the night shots really show the red warning lights clearly. :laughing:

Written by buwuve on 11-17-2010 04:49 PM GMT

I have a small question about the 18650 batteries and the max. lenght of them, which can be used. I want to use the flame (black and red) trustfire 2400 mAh*link removed by Greta*

Has anyone tested them in the EagleTac T20C2 Mark II?

Written by Richwouldnt on 12-17-2010 07:57 PM GMT

It looks like an interesting light. Has anyone tried the red or green LED modules that are available for it? Light Junction lists them as available. The red version should be good for night adaptation preservation purposes.

Written by Kevin1322 on 01-02-2011 06:08 PM GMT

Illumination Gear appears to be selling the light with the new XM-L, and the site says the replacement module with the XM-L is coming soon. Does anyone have one or have more information on it? I was waiting for them to offer a SST-50 module, but I've heard the XM-L is pretty comparable, offering similar output but a less defined hotspot.

 

[selfbuilt]

Written by Richwouldnt on 01-06-2011 01:59 AM GMT

Illumination Gear appears to be selling the light with the new XM-L, and the site says the replacement module with the XM-L is coming soon. Does anyone have one or have more information on it? I was waiting for them to offer a SST-50 module, but I've heard the XM-L is pretty comparable, offering similar output but a less defined hotspot.

Looking at their site it indicates the XM-L module is still not available and I did not see a actual listing for the light with the XM-L module installed. Once the new module is available I hope that Selfbuilt will test it and update this review with the results. Looking at their site it indicates the XM-L module is still not available and I did not see a actual listing for the light with the XM-L module installed. Once the new module is available I hope that Selfbuilt will test it and update this review with the results.

Written by Nico_LED on 01-06-2011 02:11 AM GMT

With the XM-L you'll have a little more throw than the SST-50 and with better runtime.

Anyway I don't know what it's going to be in a small reflector, I found the XP-G R5 very floody and I can't imagine how the XM-L will be !

Written by Kevin1322 on 01-10-2011 07:13 PM GMT

Illumination Gear now has the XM-L module up for sale, though they have a note on the page that says modules will ship mid to end January. I ordered one, as everyone seems to be so impressed with this new LED, so it seems like it would be hard to go wrong with it. I received an immediate email confirming my purchase. Never in the ordering process did anything indicate that shipping would be delayed as they don't have them in yet (other than the note on the T20C2 page itself), so maybe l will have it soon and be able to give everyone my thoughts here. Hopefully, also, it will arrive with some information on it as well!

Written by mac1987 on 01-29-2011 08:09 PM GMT

I Just received my Neutral White XP-E Q4 LED module. It has a nice tint and beam pattern. I was playing a bit with it when I discovered that the beam pattern is almost 100% identical to the Cool White XP-G R5 module. When I look at the LED itself, it has 4 yellow 'lanes' like the XP-G and not 3 like the XP-E. However, it says XP-E Q4 on the module itself. When comparing the beam pattern and the LED itself with other lights with XP-G and XP-E LED's, it looks identical to the XP-G and not the XP-E. Also, the light output using sealing bounce seems identical to a Fenix TA21 with 225 Lumens. The XP-E Q4 NW reportedly has 190 Lumens. Has anyone else noticed this?

Written by Phaserburn on 01-30-2011 08:54 AM GMT

First I've heard, but if it could be confirmed that you have a NW XP-G R4 or R5, I'd be the first in line to grab the next one! Perhaps a note to the seller? If you post a pic, it would be easy for us to tell you if it's an XPE or XPG.

Written by mac1987 on 01-30-2011 05:03 PM GMT

I will try to make some decent pictures of the LED's tomorrow. In the meanwhile, I'm interested in knowing if the other people with NW LED's in their T20C2 MK.II's see 3 or 4 yellow 'lanes' ?

Would Eagletac be so stupid as to put the wrong (cheaper) LED type on their website?

Edit: some pics. Sorry for the quality but couldn't get them any better...

Written by psdx on 01-30-2011 07:30 PM GMT

I see several comparisons between the Tc20C2 and the TK12. I compare them as well. I like the UI and the "look" of the ET but I can't seem to get past the fact that the Fenix has regulation that is so much better than that of the EagleTac. I can't imagine the driver to provide better regulation would cost that much more. AM I wrong - and it does in fact cost a lot more to manufacture a light with full regulation than one that's got a output curve that looks the the EagleTac? Are all EagleTac lights regulated similar to this one? I'm just surprised that a relatively new offering would not be regulated better. Any thoughts or other things I should be aware of?

Written by selfbuilt on 01-31-2011 07:19 AM GMT

I like the UI and the "look" of the ET but I can't seem to get past the fact that the Fenix has regulation that is so much better than that of the EagleTac. I can't imagine the driver to provide better regulation would cost that much more.

Eagletac actually has fine current-controlled regulation, consistent with other makers in this category. It is just that Fenix is a special case - for some reason, it usually has the most efficient driver. The difference is not necessarily huge though. In this case, my TK11 seems to be stand-out performer - but that may not be indicative of the model as a whole (i.e. it is only n=1 sample, after all). Eagletac actually has fine current-controlled regulation, consistent with other makers in this category. It is just that Fenix is a special case - for some reason, it usually has the most efficient driver. The difference is not necessarily huge though. In this case, my TK11 seems to be stand-out performer - but that may not be indicative of the model as a whole (i.e. it is only n=1 sample, after all).

Written by psdx on 01-31-2011 08:48 AM GMT

In this case, my TK11 seems to be stand-out performer - but that may not be indicative of the model as a whole (i.e. it is only n=1 sample, after all).

Thanks for the insight. The TC20C2 vs. TK11 curves are just wildly different. The net-net of what you're saying is that I shouldn't necessarily use this as a primary decision driver by itself. Got it - thanks again. Thanks for the insight. The TC20C2 vs. TK11 curves are just wildly different. The net-net of what you're saying is that I shouldn't necessarily use this as a primary decision driver by itself. Got it - thanks again.

Written by jhc37013 on 01-31-2011 08:58 PM GMT

Anyone heard when the XM-L drop-ins for the T20 will ship?

Written by psdx on 02-01-2011 04:11 AM GMT

Anyone heard when the XM-L drop-ins for the T20 will ship?

The website for Illumination Gear says they expect to have them 2/3/11 - can't imagine they'll wait too long to start shipping. The website for Illumination Gear says they expect to have them 2/3/11 - can't imagine they'll wait too long to start shipping.

Written by mac1987 on 02-01-2011 05:34 PM GMT

If I show you this picture, which LED do you think it is?

It says XP-E NW Q4 on the side of the module but looks identical to a XP-G

Written by dwminer on 02-01-2011 07:28 PM GMT

The website for Illumination Gear says they expect to have them 2/3/11 - can't imagine they'll wait too long to start shipping.

Mine shipped today from Kwai Chung, Hong Kong. Should arrive Thursday, 02/03/2011, By End of Day. Mine shipped today from Kwai Chung, Hong Kong. Should arrive Thursday, 02/03/2011, By End of Day.

Dave

Written by jhc37013 on 02-02-2011 06:33 PM GMT

I hope those that want the XM-L have pre-ordered it, I think it's going to be a really bright module and could get really popular. It could be another new beginning for the T20C2 MKII as well, being as how small of a XM-L light it really will be.

Written by psdx on 02-02-2011 07:14 PM GMT

The Lumintop TD-15x has more output and is slightly shorter, though it has a slightly larger bezel. I think the best selling point is the dropin capability. I have the TD-15x - waiting for the new R5 version of the T20C2.

Written by recDNA on 02-03-2011 11:33 AM GMT

The drop in won't work in the old original T20C2 right?

Written by jhc37013 on 02-03-2011 06:16 PM GMT

The drop in won't work in the old original T20C2 right?

No only the MKII. No only the MKII.

Written by tights24 on 02-04-2011 07:17 AM GMT

Probably a stupid question and i may have missed the answer, but is there that much of a difference between the P20C2 II model and the "tactical" model? I.e, can all of the drop ins available for the T be used as well in the P? Sorry for the ignorant question.

 

[selfbuilt]

Written by lebox97 on 02-04-2011 07:24 AM GMT

• P20A2 modules only fit the P20A2 MKII
• P20C2 modules only fit the P20C2 MKII
  
  (P20A2 and P20C2 are same size head, threads and module - and would "fit" - but voltage requirements and output is different)
• T20C2 modules only fit the T20C2 MKII

Cheers

Tod

Probably a stupid question and i may have missed the answer, but is there that much of a difference between the P20C2 II model and the "tactical" model? I.e, can all of the drop ins available for the T be used as well in the P? Sorry for the ignorant question.

Written by German Max on 02-05-2011 12:04 PM GMT

http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/ea...20c2-xm-l.htmlhey, here first review from T20 XM-L!

Written by jhc37013 on 02-06-2011 03:26 AM GMT

Today I got my XM-L drop-in for my T20C2 MKII from illuminationgear and I'm very satisfied. It came packaged in a plastic container with no dust or fingerprints to be seen and I was pleased to see it was a LOP texture instead of smooth. Install is easy and certain with the T20 just remember the threads are reverse and if you find it to tough to loosen by hand it does have the knurled textured on the outside of the module to put a wrench to if needed.

So I do the prayer to the flashlight gods like always before turning it on for the first time asking for a tint that isn't green or to cool, and this time it payed off with a very nice soft white with no sign of green, so far so good. Next even with a LOP reflector could it have a donut hole, nope not even a little.

It is obviously much brighter now and even beats my Maelstrom G5 S2 in a ceiling bounce showdown but the T20C2 XM-L is mostly a flood light as you would expect, I need to take it out some more to get a better idea of throw but hopefully someone with a lux meter can measure more accurately.

Oh yes and one more thing when you change modes especially to low gone is the slow transition the drop in output is now sudden without that fading down, those with the previous model no what I'm talking about.

The only thing negative I see thus far is every now and then it will not cut on when I click the switch more time is needed to figure out why, maybe it's a timing thing because it only happens when I'm playing around with it turning it off and on quickly and never when I set it down and come back to it later.

Written by psdx on 02-06-2011 05:55 AM GMT

http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/ea...20c2-xm-l.htmlhey, here first review from T20 XM-L!

The pictures in this article show the T20C2 Mark II XPG and the XM-L version side-by-side. If they are both Mark II versions, why are they different? I am also wondering if the new Mark II XPG version coming out (493 lumens, 380 OTF) will be like the XM-L version shown here. The things I see the most are differences in the tailcap (shorter) and the knurling in the body up against the tailcap. The pictures in this article show the T20C2 Mark II XPG and the XM-L version side-by-side. If they are both Mark II versions, why are they different? I am also wondering if the new Mark II XPG version coming out (493 lumens, 380 OTF) will be like the XM-L version shown here. The things I see the most are differences in the tailcap (shorter) and the knurling in the body up against the tailcap.

Does anyone know what the difference is????

Written by offthetrail on 02-06-2011 08:15 AM GMT

There is an Eagletac youtube video showing the changes. They updated the clip design to add a locking ring since so many people complained about the old design with the clip falling off.

The pictures in this article show the T20C2 Mark II XPG and the XM-L version side-by-side. If they are both Mark II versions, why are they different? I am also wondering if the new Mark II XPG version coming out (493 lumens, 380 OTF) will be like the XM-L version shown here. The things I see the most are differences in the tailcap (shorter) and the knurling in the body up against the tailcap.

Does anyone know what the difference is????

Written by Nico_LED on 02-06-2011 12:33 PM GMT

I don't know why they made a shorter tailcap ??

Written by jhc37013 on 02-06-2011 05:08 PM GMT

The only thing negative I see thus far is every now and then it will not cut on when I click the switch more time is needed to figure out why, maybe it's a timing thing because it only happens when I'm playing around with it turning it off and on quickly and never when I set it down and come back to it later.

I'm going to quote myself here so I can clear this up if anyone read this original post. I changed switch's first and that did not help and I then remembered when I did the drop-in swap to XM-L I put just the ever so smallest amount of lube on the threads inside the head that hold in the drop-in. I'm going to quote myself here so I can clear this up if anyone read this original post. I changed switch's first and that did not help and I then remembered when I did the drop-in swap to XM-L I put just the ever so smallest amount of lube on the threads inside the head that hold in the drop-in. So I removed every bit of lube and now it works just perfect, lesson learned don't put even the tiniest amount of lube on the module threads it caused problems for me.

Other than that I have been messing around with the XM-L drop-in inside and outside over the past 24hrs and I'm still very impressed with the output and tint. If you own a T20C2 MKII get this drop in, it will only cost you ~$25 and it's well worth it.

Written by infinus on 02-06-2011 06:13 PM GMT

I put no lube on my threads and I get this same thing from time to time. I also find that if I pulse the light at just the right frequency that it'll actually activate the tactical modes. If I let it turn off for more then about 2 seconds though it always works right.

Also, there are UI changes. The tactical modes only work in the unscrewed position now. Previously you could turn on moonlight mode from either high or medium. Now it only will work from medium for me.

Other than that it's a pretty nice addition to this light.

Written by offthetrail on 02-06-2011 06:27 PM GMT

I put no lube on my threads and I get this same thing from time to time. I also find that if I pulse the light at just the right frequency that it'll actually activate the tactical modes.

Same for me too. No lube and I get no turn on from time to time. Also I have to rotate the bezel further to get mode changes than I do with the XP-G module. I noticed the UI changes too. Same for me too. No lube and I get no turn on from time to time. Also I have to rotate the bezel further to get mode changes than I do with the XP-G module. I noticed the UI changes too.

Written by jhc37013 on 02-06-2011 10:35 PM GMT

Same for me too. No lube and I get no turn on from time to time. Also I have to rotate the bezel further to get mode changes than I do with the XP-G module. I noticed the UI changes too.

Well I though I fixed it by cleaning the threads off inside the head and on the module but it's acting up again. I first changed the T20 switch to be certain it wasn't that (it was not) and then I put my XP-G module back in and it works fine so I guess I need to send the XM-L drop-in back, bummer it was a great tint and lean beam. Well I though I fixed it by cleaning the threads off inside the head and on the module but it's acting up again. I first changed the T20 switch to be certain it wasn't that (it was not) and then I put my XP-G module back in and it works fine so I guess I need to send the XM-L drop-in back, bummer it was a great tint and lean beam.

To be clear some of you other members are having trouble with your XM-L drop-in as well?

Written by infinus on 02-06-2011 10:42 PM GMT

Yeah, it sounds like this behavior must be expected if so many of us are seeing it.

Written by Phaserburn on 02-07-2011 06:19 AM GMT

Anyone have these issues with the XP-G module? I never have.

 

[selfbuilt]

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by Nico_LED on 02-07-2011 06:21 AM GMT

Not any problem for me !

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by infinus on 02-07-2011 07:50 AM GMT

Nico Led,

If you try to switch the light on temporarily (not a full click on)
repeatedly you don't see it switch to strobe mode or not come on?

Try pulsing the light repeatedly if you could as a test for us.
Sometimes it takes awhile to figure out the right timing to make it
happen.

edit: I'm assuming we are talking the XM-L module here..... I've never had an issue with the other modules.

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by Nico_LED on 02-07-2011 08:19 AM GMT

Nico Led,

If you try to switch the light on temporarily (not a full click on)
repeatedly you don't see it switch to strobe mode or not come on?

Try pulsing the light repeatedly if you could as a test for us.
Sometimes it takes awhile to figure out the right timing to make it
happen.

edit: I'm assuming we are talking the XM-L module here..... I've never had an issue with the other modules.

I though the fist question was for xp-g models, to be sure this was not the case for those models. I though the fist question was for xp-g models, to be sure this was not the case for those models.

Anyway, I performded the test as you explained on my XP-G sample : If I
half swith rapidly within about a second it switch to strobe mode but it
always come on... is it the behaviour explianed by jhc37013 ?

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by infinus on 02-07-2011 09:38 AM GMT

Oh, gotcha, yes, I don't ever see this on my XP-G. I got confused,
sorry. On the XML we are seeing this behavior though (the not activating
thing that is). Ugh.... Mondays....

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by Nico_LED on 02-07-2011 02:31 PM GMT

You're welcome

An interesting thing would be to know if this only occur with the
drop-in or also in the T20C2 mkII already aquiped whith the XM-L ??

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by Nico_LED on 02-07-2011 02:34 PM GMT

You're welcome

An interesting thing would be to know if this only occur with the
drop-in or also in the T20C2 mkII already equiped whith the XM-L ??

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by psdx on 02-07-2011 03:05 PM GMT

You're welcome

An interesting thing would be to know if this only occur with the
drop-in or also in the T20C2 mkII already equiped whith the XM-L ??

As mentioned earlier in this thread, the T20C2 MK II body shipped
with the XM-L is slightly different than the prior version with the
XP-G emitter. The new T20C2 Mk II with the 373 OTF XP-G emitter will be
shipping soon. I would guess that it will share the new body/tailcap
with the XM-L version. As mentioned earlier in this thread, the T20C2 MK II body shipped
with the XM-L is slightly different than the prior version with the
XP-G emitter. The new T20C2 Mk II with the 373 OTF XP-G emitter will be
shipping soon. I would guess that it will share the new body/tailcap
with the XM-L version.

Why did I say all that? I am wondering if the problem is with the
compatibility between the "old" Mk II version and the new drop-in. The
definitive answer might come when people start putting the XM-L dropin
into the new MK II with the XP-G that ships soon. ...therefore maybe
the new dropins will have issues unless they are used in the new MK II
bodies???

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by Nico_LED on 02-07-2011 03:12 PM GMT

Why did I say all that? I am wondering if the problem is with the
compatibility between the "old" Mk II version and the new drop-in. The
definitive answer might come when people start putting the XM-L dropin
into the new MK II with the XP-G that ships soon. ...therefore maybe
the new dropins will have issues unless they are used in the new MK II
bodies???

Interesting idea but I don't know why this would be a
compatibility problem since the body, tail cap included is only
mecanical with no electronic ? Or I missed something ? Interesting idea but I don't know why this would be a
compatibility problem since the body, tail cap included is only
mecanical with no electronic ? Or I missed something ?

I was suspecting a different construction between the drop-in for add-on and the modul wich is included into the new MKII

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by psdx on 02-07-2011 03:45 PM GMT

It's possible that while we've commented about differences that are
readily apparent, there may be other differences that are less
apparent, and yet to be discovered. I wouldn't even classify this as a
theory - just a possibility.

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by jcalvert on 02-07-2011 05:48 PM GMT

I have the 2011 updated MKII host that came with the XM-L and
although I have never pressed the momentary on-off like that on any
light before, I tried it to just see if I could replicate the
affect...and I'll be darned, it does exactly what you guys are saying.
It's kind of a grin that something like that was found. Otherwise, it
doesn't affect its performance as intended.

All the best,

John

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by jhc37013 on 02-07-2011 08:52 PM GMT

I have the 2011 updated MKII host that came
with the XM-L and although I have never pressed the momentary on-off
like that on any light before, I tried it to just see if I could
replicate the affect...and I'll be darned, it does exactly what you guys
are saying. It's kind of a grin that something like that was found.
Otherwise, it doesn't affect its performance as intended.

All the best,

John

So you have the new body and new Xm-L and you are having this activation problem to? So you have the new body and new Xm-L and you are having this activation problem to?

I have never had the XPG module fail to light up, not even once as far as I can remember.

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by jcalvert on 02-07-2011 09:39 PM GMT

Hi jhc,

I'm sorry if I mispoke, it doesn't fail to activate, it just does those
strange things when I continually and quickly press the tail switch with
a momentary 1/2 push action, which in reality, I would have no reason
to do. So otherwise, the light functions perfectly fine. I figure it's
just something to do with the light being set up to disable/enable the
strobe feature.

All the best,

John

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by Kevin1322 on 02-08-2011 09:14 PM GMT

Got my XM-L drop in today and thought I would share my thoughts. It
actually is not as floody as I thought it would be. I have a SST-50
pushing 550 lumens from Nailbender (not direct drive) and the XM-L drop
actually has a smaller hot spot and throws better, but still has a lot
of bright spill too like that of an XP-G R5. As I compare it to other
lights and drops, there is no question to me it is pushing the 550
emitter lumens stated. As I've read, it does not throw as far as the
XP-G drop though. Also, a little quirk, but not a biggy to me, to get to
the low mode, you cannot go from high to medium to high again. It will
only work by going medium - high -medium, unlike the other drops which
will do either.

I like it, but if the new XP-G really is getting 373 OTF lumens and the
XM-L is getting 400 OTF lumens, for only 27 lumens difference (which my
eyes will not be able to notice anyway) and the better throw of the XP-G
I might ask them if they would exchange it for me. I still have not
found official info on the new XP-G though. Where are you guys getting
this information?

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by offthetrail on 02-09-2011 04:39 AM GMT

I like it, but if the new XP-G really is
getting 373 OTF lumens and the XM-L is getting 400 OTF lumens, for only
27 lumens difference (which my eyes will not be able to notice anyway)
and the better throw of the XP-G I might ask them if they would exchange
it for me. I still have not found official info on the new XP-G
though. Where are you guys getting this information?

It is in the 2011 Eagletac catalog. The lights aren't released
yet, I would imagine it will be several months. I keep hearing rumors
that they are driving the XP-G in the new light to approx. 1.5 amps for
3.5 minutes to meet the ANSI lumen measurement test and then it steps
back down to the 1.2 amps or whatever it is after that. So essentially
its the same XP-G module with 3.5 minutes of boost mode. Only time will
tell. It is in the 2011 Eagletac catalog. The lights aren't released
yet, I would imagine it will be several months. I keep hearing rumors
that they are driving the XP-G in the new light to approx. 1.5 amps for
3.5 minutes to meet the ANSI lumen measurement test and then it steps
back down to the 1.2 amps or whatever it is after that. So essentially
its the same XP-G module with 3.5 minutes of boost mode. Only time will
tell.

Re: EagleTac T20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES and more!
Written by Kevin1322 on 02-09-2011 08:15 AM GMT

It is in the 2011 Eagletac catalog. The lights
aren't released yet, I would imagine it will be several months. I keep
hearing rumors that they are driving the XP-G in the new light to
approx. 1.5 amps for 3.5 minutes to meet the ANSI lumen measurement test
and then it steps back down to the 1.2 amps or whatever it is after
that. So essentially its the same XP-G module with 3.5 minutes of boost
mode. Only time will tell.

Got it. Thanks for the info. Got it. Thanks for the info.

Written by recDNA on 02-09-2011 08:25 AM GMT

It is in the 2011 Eagletac catalog. The lights
aren't released yet, I would imagine it will be several months. I keep
hearing rumors that they are driving the XP-G in the new light to
approx. 1.5 amps for 3.5 minutes to meet the ANSI lumen measurement test
and then it steps back down to the 1.2 amps or whatever it is after
that. So essentially its the same XP-G module with 3.5 minutes of boost
mode. Only time will tell.

If so many will praise it as thermal regulation. I may be jaded
but I see it as a cynical means of getting around ansi to inflate output
numbers. If so many will praise it as thermal regulation. I may be jaded
but I see it as a cynical means of getting around ansi to inflate output
numbers.

I wonder how hard it would be to replace the driver with one that runs at 2 amps?

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

 

[selfbuilt]

The thread discussions for the last few months have been fully restored from the search engine cache data (thank you tandem!).

Please carry on!

 

[mac1987]

Hey guys,

just receiver my XM-L T6 drop-in. It has a nice beam, very large hotspot with a bright spill. The hotspot seems about as bright as the XP-G R5 drop-in, only about twice the size. At the outer edges of the spill it shows a "double edge". It's nothing like the old CREE-rings, but it's not totally smooth either. This only shows up when white-wall hunting and disappears when using the light in real-life situations. The transition from spot to spill is pretty smooth. Overall I'm very satisfied with the beam-pattern and output, especially considering the price I paid for the module vs. buying a complete new XM-L light.
The only disappointment is in the color of the beam. It's very cold and with a slight tint of purple. although I have to admit I'm used to the XP-G Neutral White module now. But it's definitely a bit more purplish than the XP-G Cool White R5 that I also have.

Edit: After playing with the light for a while I came across the same problem as the one others have reported: sometimes the light doesn't switch 'hidden' modes and sometimes it won't turn on. However, I found out that it won't change 'hidden' modes when starting from the High position (tightened). After quick loosening-tightening it won't change to low/strobe/beacon/sos without turning the light off first. Sometimes, when turning the light on again immediately, it won't turn on at all. When changing to hidden modes from the loosened position and tightening-loosening quickly, it will work without a problem.
It seems there is a bug in the driver when changing to hidden modes and starting from the tightened position. Luckily so far it does seem to work correctly when starting from the loosened position, so using the flashlight in the correct way seems to cause no problems.
I find this a bit of a disappointment from a QC perspective (don't tell me nobody tested this?), but considering the small price I paid for the module, the quality and quantity of the light it produces and the price a new XM-L flashlight from e.g. Fenix (no drop-in modules so forced to buy a complete flashlight when switching to a newer LED type) would cost me, it seems a small price to pay.
I'm really amazed that they keep updating the modules. I now have a XP-G R5 Cool White, XP-G (R4?) Neutral White and XM-L T6 Cool White for the price of not even 1,5 other (complete) flashlights. Usually companies make 1 update to satisfy the customers who bought the light for upgrade-ability. This light already has seen 4 (XR-E R2, XP-E Q4 NW, XP-G NW and XM-L T6).

 

[kreisler]

Any chance to add the measurements and graphs for the XML version? There are 2 XML versions, the original release and the current "720 lumens" release:

EagleTac T20C2 MK II XM-L T6

Dimensions:
Length: 5.5 inch (14cm)
Body Diameter: 1.0 inch (2.54cm)
Head Diameter: 1.3 inch (3.3cm)
Body Weight (excluding batteries): 4.25 ounces (120grams)

Battery:

Two CR123A lithium batteries or one 18650 Li-ion (button-top cells only)
Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V to 9V

Runtimes:
Low/General/Turbo: 100+/10/1.5 hours(3.5mins)
Strobe (9.5 Hz)/Slow-Blink (2 Hz)/SOS: 2.5/2.4/5.8 hours

XM-L T6 Lumen Output: Low/General/Turbo (Turbo Boost)
LED Lumen: 12/105/460(580)
ANSI FL-1: 10/90/370(465)

(All AUX modes are operating at turbo boost brightness)

Lux @ 1meter: 7700lux

EagleTac T20C2 MKII High OutPut XM-L

Runtimes:
Low/General/Turbo: 100+/10/1.2 hours(3.5mins)

XM-L T6 Lumen Output: Low/General/Turbo (Turbo Boost)
LED Lumen: 12/105/490(720)
ANSI FL-1: 10/90/395(580)

Dimensions:
Length: 5.5 inch (14cm)
Body Diameter: 1.0 inch (2.54cm)
Head Diameter: 1.3 inch (3.3cm)
Body Weight (excluding batteries): 4.25 ounces (120grams)

Battery:

Two CR123A lithium batteries or one 18650 Li-ion (button-top cells only)
Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V to 9V

That would be a great update to this thread! And thanks for the review!!

 

[selfbuilt]

Sorry, haven't heard from eagletac. I typically leave it up to manufacturers to suggest lights for review.

Sent from my handheld device

 

[kreisler]

i managed to separate the drop-in module (720 lumens!!) and divide it into its 2 parts. you only have to apply some good force and that's it

hope you enjoy my scans:

best wishes
kreisler (the :banned

 

[madecov]

I received the XML-T6 updated version of this light. It works great on primary 123's but will not light up with AW or Redilast 2900 mah 18650's.

Any recommendations as to a decent quality cell ?

 

[kreisler]

with AW or Redilast 2900 mah 18650's

the AW and Redilast are afaik flat-top cells. you could remedy this situation by removing the white plastic ring of the drop in module. or you do buy new cells with button-top. personally i use the 18700 XTAR 2600 mah cells. they fit. decent quality? i dunno for sure.

there are not very many button-top cells available .. so you dont have much of a choice anyway. please may others suggest their cells in use, thanks!

 

[Spartacus001]

Thanks for that very informative review.
My ECD is a EagleTac P20A2.
An excellent light but its kinda long so I have been pondering on a single 18650 light.
This might be what I'm looking for

 

[kreisl]

wanted to share dis.. have been using the Eagletac aluminum weapon mount on the original plastic rail of my vacuum cleaner's tube. to fit the plastic rail and the aluminum mount perfectly, there was too much play, i had to create an adapter shoe made out of plastic. well i filled in hot glue in the space where the play was and done was the shoe, perfect fit.



i'll upload 2 more documentational pics later..

now cleaning the corners of the ceiling, vacuuming spider webs indoors, spiders, or even hunting mosquitos in a dark room is highly enjoyable work. cleaning the house, the basement is phun?? now yes. you betcha :huh:

i don't own any weapon, gun or rifle, so this is mine now

 

[bshanahan14rulz]

Wanted to add my experiences so far with this light.

Mode change instability. As others have said in the past, keep your connections clean!!! The aluminum spring-loaded ring makes contact with a shelf in teh body of the flashlight, so don't forget to clean that shelf too, not just the aluminum contacts on the drop-in. If you are having trouble changing modes, or if modes change by themselves if you look at the flashlight wrong, clean up the contacts.

Greatly reduced output. I had a hair or something that was keeping the aluminum spring-loaded ring from touching the body completely. Result was normal operation, but at greatly reduced output (think on Turbo mode, you could look directly at the emitter from point blank and it looks so dimly lit that you can see all the surface details). This should be noted that this isn't at all a flaw of teh flashlight. Just a symptom that threw me off.

Re: Mac1987's problem from 2011: only two modes available if you turn on while in turbo mode. I do believe this UI feature was by design.

flat top cells do not work by default. You can remove the plastic ring around the + contact on the spring on the drop-in. I tried to solder a blob to it. I'd recommend just snipping the plastic. The solder melted the plastic, but it resolidified alright. Just would look neater if I had just removed the ring.

Thanks for the pic of drop-in disassembled. Figured it HAD to be two pieces, but couldn't get it to budge. Time to drop the kitten mittens and put on some big cat paws!

Oh, and sorry for bumping old thread. Light is new to me ;-)