Ebay hid lights vs branded led's

[rambo180]

I think we are all asking the wrong questions. I think the real question is, do any of us need a light that is brighter than 1000lm really? I have several XML-T6 led lights with different reflectors and bodies, all of which serve their purpose very well; but I almost never use their full output unless I am clearly just trying to impress someone. It is pretty useless to have the power of the sun in your hand, I believe the point behind all of these is to just be rediculous. The only question really is do you want to throw or flood? I like both, but something I don't like is to pay large amounts of money for something that will just be outdated in a few months. I have seen videos comparing the SR-90 to the 50W HID lights and all they want to talk about is how the SR-90 blows the 50W HID away at 200m+. Have any of you ever needed useable light in less than a 10m wide area >200m away from you? I pearsonally believe the HID would be better just due to the fact that it is half price and close up it is actually useable rather than the obviously devoted thrower that will cost almost $400.00. It is up to the consumer though, because no matter what I say or do I really want a Polarion PH-50.:shrug:

Your logic is not welcome here...

Just kidding. Good thread. Brings in new perspectives.

 

[jais]

the 1000lumens bought from ebay is not as bright as branded unit.

 

[langham]

It all depends on the emitter, reflector and driver. If you get an eBay light that is not name brand that has an XML-T6 or U2 and is being driven at 3A it will put out the same amount of light as a brand name light. The real differences come in reflector design, optics, durability, and in heat sinking. The reason no name brand light is coming out with an XML in a P-60 module is due to the fact that the heat is not getting away from the LED. Sure it is ok to run that light until the battery runs out, but it will cause detriment to the emitter, which in the name brand lights means that you have to buy a new one (for those who don't know how to replace them). The generic or off brand lights don't care about safety margins or designs. They will simply put the emitter at its maximum rated capacity and let it go, who cares if it dies in a week, and they also sell emitters and drivers for you to replace it with for only a fraction of the cost of a new light. I have an ultra-fire flashlight that puts close to 800lm out the front with an XML-U2 being driven at around 3A, but it took quite a bit of tweaking and a little patience. If you buy a surefire that says 800lm it will be at least 800lm when the batteries are dead not just for the first 10 sec that it is operating. It all depends on what you want; I bet you will not pay as much per lm for any 2 off brand flashlights as you will for 1 good quality name brand light. It is all about the appeal, and the dependability. I say if you know what you are doing and don't mind tweaking the light go ahead and buy a cheap light, if you don't have the time or patience and you do have the money then don't waste your time on a cheap light buy the nice branded light that you know you will never have any problems with and you know that when it says 1000lm it really means it.

 

[jais]

It all depends on the emitter, reflector and driver. If you get an eBay light that is not name brand that has an XML-T6 or U2 and is being driven at 3A it will put out the same amount of light as a brand name light. The real differences come in reflector design, optics, durability, and in heat sinking. The reason no name brand light is coming out with an XML in a P-60 module is due to the fact that the heat is not getting away from the LED. Sure it is ok to run that light until the battery runs out, but it will cause detriment to the emitter, which in the name brand lights means that you have to buy a new one (for those who don't know how to replace them). The generic or off brand lights don't care about safety margins or designs. They will simply put the emitter at its maximum rated capacity and let it go, who cares if it dies in a week, and they also sell emitters and drivers for you to replace it with for only a fraction of the cost of a new light. I have an ultra-fire flashlight that puts close to 800lm out the front with an XML-U2 being driven at around 3A, but it took quite a bit of tweaking and a little patience. If you buy a surefire that says 800lm it will be at least 800lm when the batteries are dead not just for the first 10 sec that it is operating. It all depends on what you want; I bet you will not pay as much per lm for any 2 off brand flashlights as you will for 1 good quality name brand light. It is all about the appeal, and the dependability. I say if you know what you are doing and don't mind tweaking the light go ahead and buy a cheap light, if you don't have the time or patience and you do have the money then don't waste your time on a cheap light buy the nice branded light that you know you will never have any problems with and you know that when it says 1000lm it really means it.

got your points here, thanks for your advise.