Elektro Lumens MT-I and MT-III Maglite Drop In

[SEMIJim]

The MT-III got lower readings than my original MT-III, 180 lux lower. Wayne was thinking it maybe too much solder creating more resistance. The newer MT-III looks like it has more solder so maybe that is why I got lower readings.

Well, solder is a worse conductor than copper, gold or silver, it's true. But stainless steel is absolutely horrible. Even nickel has a resistivity of only micro-ohms/meter. But stainless is up in the hundreds-of-ohms/meter. (The exact resistivity of stainless steel depends on the exact formulation and heat treat,.)

Solder's resistivity depends greatly on a variety of factors, but, as I understand it, common electrical solder, properly applied, is only a few times worse than copper.

Jim

 

[Derek Dean]

This maybe a silly question, but has anybody tried running the MT-III in a 1D Maglite with a 3xAA-1D adapter using AA NiMh batteries? I know the runtime would be MUCH shorter, but I think it might be a super-fun little light..... and then if you wanted longer run times you could always put it into a 3D Mag.

Of course, I also think it might be neat to power it with a single 18650 lithium ion...... or am I just way off base here?

 

[ernsanada]

This maybe a silly question, but has anybody tried running the MT-III in a 1D Maglite with a 3xAA-1D adapter using AA NiMh batteries? I know the runtime would be MUCH shorter, but I think it might be a super-fun little light..... and then if you wanted longer run times you could always put it into a 3D Mag.

Of course, I also think it might be neat to power it with a single 18650 lithium ion...... or am I just way off base here?

It should work. Same voltage but shorter run time.

 

[Derek Dean]

Thanks ernsanada. Since you've had some experience with this drop-in (MT-III), do think it would benefit much from having a finned head, or does it not seem to get that hot with extended runtime?

I was considering getting one of these:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=170027

and was debating whether to go with a finned or un-finned head. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

[ElektroLumens]

SWEET. This thread makes me happy i went ahead and bought an MT-III.

Wayne, i was kinda wondering, I bought it on Thursday Nov 29th, when should I be gettin it? thanks.

Orders placed before Dec 10 will ship by Dec 14th. Orders placed after that will ship on Dec 21.

I do usually put that information on the shopping cart, normally, so you can know it, when you place the order. Right now it says new orders placed will ship by Dec 21.

Wayne

 

[ElektroLumens]

Thanks ernsanada. Since you've had some experience with this drop-in (MT-III), do think it would benefit much from having a finned head, or does it not seem to get that hot with extended runtime?

I was considering getting one of these:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=170027

and was debating whether to go with a finned or un-finned head. Any insight would be appreciated.

The SSC P4 does not generat much heat, especially compared to Luxeon K2 LEDs. The stock Maglite is totally sufficient sinking. I've put up to six SSC P4 LEDs in a Mag, with absolutely no overheating problems whatsoever. But, a finned head does look cool. Although I've used the finned head in many designs, I've been told they actually do not do much cooling, as the air is static around the fins. Unless you wave it around and get some air circulation, that is. There has to be a certain distance between fins, before air will actually convect around them and add cooling effect.

Wayne

 

[ElektroLumens]

This maybe a silly question, but has anybody tried running the MT-III in a 1D Maglite with a 3xAA-1D adapter using AA NiMh batteries? I know the runtime would be MUCH shorter, but I think it might be a super-fun little light..... and then if you wanted longer run times you could always put it into a 3D Mag.

Of course, I also think it might be neat to power it with a single 18650 lithium ion...... or am I just way off base here?

Either 3AA, or a single 18650, will work perfectly fine. I'm sure somebody has already done it, but, a good mod would be to chop a Maglite to be shorter, and then run the MT-3 in a Mag powered from the 18650, or from 3AA in a 1D settup.


Wayne

 

[Derek Dean]

Thanks for all the information Wayne. I really like what I've been hearing about the beam pattern of the MT-III, so this definitely looks like a project worth considering.

 

[ernsanada]

Thanks ernsanada. Since you've had some experience with this drop-in (MT-III), do think it would benefit much from having a finned head, or does it not seem to get that hot with extended runtime?

I was considering getting one of these:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=170027

and was debating whether to go with a finned or un-finned head. Any insight would be appreciated.

I ran my Maglite 3D with freshly charged Nimh batteries for 37 minutes. The head got warm but not hot. You can hold the light with your hand no problem.

Fins are not needed but if you had the fins the light would look awesome!

 

[Alan B]

It might be interesting to put this 3-led model in a 4D, and put a regulator in the tailcap to control the current, and make it regulated...

I do like to see lights with more flood/spill output. Very nice. Might even be nice to have an option for wider angle reflectors/optics for an even wider beam / less hotspot. Would be a portable battery floodlight, good for outdoor work, sports, etc.

-- Alan

 

[Zenster]

It might be interesting to put this 3-led model in a 4D, and put a regulator in the tailcap to control the current, and make it regulated...

I do like to see lights with more flood/spill output. Very nice. Might even be nice to have an option for wider angle reflectors/optics for an even wider beam / less hotspot. Would be a portable battery floodlight, good for outdoor work, sports, etc.

-- Alan

Having used mine a bit, I wouldn't want regulation. You get lot's more runtime without regulation and a very nice long period where you can decide when to change the depleting batteries at YOUR convenience, and not dictated by a dead light when you need it the most.
Plus, I'd personally prefer not to lug around any more battery weight than the three I do now. A Maglite 3-D is NOT a "light" light.

Also having used mine (MT-III) quite a bit, I feel confident to say that once you have your own, you won't want to change the beam one bit either way.
It throws a nice, bright, and wide center beam just fine, out to any practical distance you'll need, and the transition from the center beam to the spill is gradual which is really nice on the eyes. Plus, the very bright spill makes this light just right for outdoor use when you aren't really looking for something in particular, but just want to see well. It's already a nice light for working outdoors etc.

 

[garence]

Given the MT-III drop-in and the purchase of the 3D Mag, you're looking at around $120 with shipping/tax. For an "area light" of this power, that seems like a good deal, especially with the fact that the casing is cheaply replaced if damaged. But if you were going to consider a substitute, what lights come closest to this performance?

 

[Zenster]

Given the MT-III drop-in and the purchase of the 3D Mag, you're looking at around $120 with shipping/tax. For an "area light" of this power, that seems like a good deal, especially with the fact that the casing is cheaply replaced if damaged. But if you were going to consider a substitute, what lights come closest to this performance?

That's why I'm so tickled with the MT-III; one may exist, but I haven't found another light that fits into this "category" of what the MT-III is.

I don't know how you could beat a light that uses the commonly available D cell batteries (with option of using both Alkaline or NimH rechargeable), a runtime of around 5 hours to 50%, and then hours more (to dead) if need be, and puts out such a useful "useable" beam that this does.
Plus, if you forget it in your trunk for too long and the Alkalines leak and ruin the Mag, all you do is toss the old Mag in the trash and get a brand new one for under $20, put the MT-III in the new Mag, and be on your way with a "brand new" light.

It may have been accidental on Wayne's part, but what he did with the MT-III was to build a drop-in that's in a niche all by itself. It will be interesting to see how the new Terralux 3-LED unit compares to the MT-III, and if similar, what we may be seeing is a brand new niche of flashlights that other companies have ignored because of their limited vision of wanting to out-do each other and compete with "throw".

As a comedian once said: "It may be lonely at the top, but it sure is crowded at the bottom".
At the moment, the MT-III is at the top, and we'll see how many other manufacturers now want to enter this niche of "Bright, Wide Centerbeam (but not a flood), Great Throw (but not the longest), and Overall Bright Spill (almost as good as a dedicated flood... hell, maybe as good or better than a lot of floodlights).

This is what night time illumination should be, not the pencil thin "throwers" with little spill that litter the landscape of the market.

 

[flashy bazook]

First, just wanted to agree with the many positive reviews and opinions of the MT-III. I've been playing with mine for some time now, and am very happy to have ordered it!

One point I wanted to make I haven't seen made elsewhere: there seem to exist 3xD Maglites that CANNOT be fit with the MT-III drop in!

I found this out when I tried to install the MT-III in one of three 3xD Maglites I already had. Two I had already altered with a K2-luxeon based drop in, and I wanted to mod the last of the three. Imagine my surprise when the MT-III drop-in didn't fit!! For a moment I was in a bit of a shock, and thought there was something wrong with what I received.

But, within a few seconds, my brain started working again, and I remembered that I had in the past some trouble fitting an Opalec-based LED module into some 2xAA Maglites, and basically realized there was an older and a newer version of these. So I figured there may be older and newer versions of the 3xD Maglites as well.

So I got one of the already K2'd 3xD Maglites out and tried the MT-III with that one, but it didn't work! I was now down to my last chance.

And, I guess you know that it DID work with the last one, so I just switched the K2 for the to-date unaltered 3xD Maglite, and Bob was indeed my uncle.

Anyway, I guess there must be other people other there with some older vintage 3xD Maglites running around, so don't worry about the MT-III, it will fit fine, but on the current vintage.

For the record, the way in which the older 3xD Maglites don't fit the MT-III is that the length of the seating is too short so you'll find out that you can't put in the lens back on top of the not-fully-seated MT-III. Also, the threads won't screw all the way in. Finally, even if you manage to partially thread the bezel, you'll find that there won't be electricity flowing in to the plastic connector sent to you together with the MT-III and no light will come out in that case.

 

[CodeOfLight]

Will this fit in a 3C maglite head?

I already have a P4 Stunner from Wayne, I am looking at a 3C form factor for another WPI (Wayne Perfectamundo Invention).

 

[SEMIJim]

Anyway, I guess there must be other people other there with some older vintage 3xD Maglites running around, so don't worry about the MT-III, it will fit fine, but on the current vintage.

Define "current vintage," please? Can one tell by the serial number? Something (obvious?) in the difference(s) in construction between "current vintage" and "not current vintage?"

Jim

 

[JB]

One point I wanted to make I haven't seen made elsewhere: there seem to exist 3xD Maglites that CANNOT be fit with the MT-III drop in!

...

Anyway, I guess there must be other people other there with some older vintage 3xD Maglites running around, so don't worry about the MT-III, it will fit fine, but on the current vintage.

For the record, the way in which the older 3xD Maglites don't fit the MT-III is that the length of the seating is too short so you'll find out that you can't put in the lens back on top of the not-fully-seated MT-III. Also, the threads won't screw all the way in. Finally, even if you manage to partially thread the bezel, you'll find that there won't be electricity flowing in to the plastic connector sent to you together with the MT-III and no light will come out in that case.

Thanks for bringing up this point. I have an older Mag 3D (serial 34165111) and was thinking about getting the MT III, now you've got me thinking about compatibility issues.

Of course, I could always get a new Mag 3D host if mine doesn't work but unfortunately where I am Mag's aren't cheap at all.

 

[ElektroLumens]

Will this fit in a 3C maglite head?

I already have a P4 Stunner from Wayne, I am looking at a 3C form factor for another WPI (Wayne Perfectamundo Invention).

No, will not work in a C Mag, unless some extra spacers are made. I am not making the spacers now.

Also, as some have observed, may not work with vintage 3D Maglites.

Wayne

 

[ernsanada]

This is the Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin. Uses 3 RCR123's.

Uses 3 SSC U Bin.

MT-III

3D maglite with MT-III, 3D Nimh Batteries - 5900 lux @ 1 meter

Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin, 3 RCR123's - 2410 lux @ 1 meter.


MT-III @ 32'

Solar Force L603, 3 SSC U Bin, 3 RCR123's High @ 32'

 

[Swedpat]

I have read through this very interesting thread. I actually prefer a regulated flashlight so I have a constant (or nearly) brightness during such a time. I am bored of flashlights who are impressive with fresh batteries but much dimmer already after an hour or so. If the total runtime of a flashlight is several hours I don't want to change the batteries after 1 hour because of a large light loss. I rather prefer a flat output curve with the output very fast falling down so I instantly know when to change batteries.
Exception from that is flashlights especially for survival use or for bicycle flashlights. But when using a flashlight in a situation when I can bring with me extra batteries I prefer a constant output and a fast drop than a gradually dropping output during the complete runtime.

The Monster throw III is stated to have 50% of the output after 5 hours. Is this with alkaline or NimH rechargeable cells? If I recall correct the output of the rechargeable batteries is more flat than with alkalines.
I would like to see the curve for the first hours comparing different batteries. When is the light-output falling below 90, 80, 70% etc. of the maximum output? Is there such a comparison?
For example: if the brightness after 2hours is 90%, after 3 hours 85% and after 4 hours 80%, I have no problem to accept a halvening after 5 hours, I consider that as a practically constant brightness untill 4 hours, hardly noticable.

Many regards, Patric