First flashlight help! Budget XML

[flush6ga]

Hey everyone,
I'm new here but have been doing some *basic* searching (I didn't realize how much stuff there was to learn about flashlights…) and have decided on going with a budget light.

With that in mind, I am looking at this light in particular:
KD ProductId=11129

I like it because it uses the new xml emitter. I don't really get the difference between it and all the other lights listed in the same category as it- they all have roughly the same specs (1000-1300 lumens, though I realize that number is vastly exaggerated). Are they all pretty much the same just with different shaped bodies? I only chose that particular light because I liked the way it looked .

I also noticed that some say "XML T6" while others say "XML U2", I'm assuming this just refers to the bin of the emitter- does anyone know which is better? I couldn't find any information regarding this.

Any help would be great
Thanks!

 

[CarpentryHero]

I don't know which bin is better, T6 is the most popular, from what I've noticed.
As for buying from there, it's very important to read the reviews if there are any, so that if most are positive than it'd be alright to buy.
I've had pretty good luck with, ultrafire, uniquefire and Romisen for budget lights.
Shiningbeam is another great site to look at, I like bargain hunting for price comparisons

 

[CarpentryHero]

I see your looking at the Ultrafire C1, that's a pretty good light from what I've read.
It's a P60 host and it's a clone of the popular SurefireC2.

Me thinks you've done some homework already

 

[DM51]

Moving to Budget Lights...

 

[Outdoorsman5]

I believe the "U2" bin is slightly brighter than the "T6" bin.

flush6ga, I hate to point out the obvious, but wanted to make sure you were aware of this. The light that you referenced on the link above says that the battery type is "1*18650" and does not list the voltage range on this light (like they do on some of their other lights.) This suggests that the light is built for a single 18650 rechargeable Li-ion which produces 4.2v max. If you were planning on using an 18650 then you're fine, but if you were wanting to use 2 CR123 batteries (which produces 6 volts total) then you better contact the dealer to make sure that will work.

Also, inexpensive lights can be great, but if your budget improves then you may want to consider these quaility lights in the future:

Fenix TK21 - XM-L ClickHere
Lumintop TD15x - XM-L ClickHere
EagleTac T20C2 - XM-L ClickHere

 

[qwertyydude]

I would personally get a better host. The P60 host is a very good place to start but really you should get a Solarforce from lighthound.com, who is also a supporter of this site, to start with. It is much higher quality than anything Ultrafire. Believe me I own both. With that being said then you can go to DX or KD and get your drop in. You may be a little disappointed in the XM-L because in the P60 format it is severely limited in output because of thermal limitations, they put a lower current driver that doesn't drive the led to its max of 3 amps. Also the XM-L won't have very good throw so it may not seem as bright to you. I would suggest also buying a XP-G module to try out too. These are quite bright in and of themselves and tend to have better more uniform color than the XM-L which tends to have a really yellow hotspot with a blueish spill.

 

[CarpentryHero]

+1 on the solarforce, my favorite is the L2M.

 

[flush6ga]

Thanks guys.

So iv'e been doing alot of research, and am a bit confused on two more things I was hoping you guys could answer.

First, I understand that the xml will not be being driven at the full 3 amps it's capable of. I noticed on the DX p60 dropin lights, they put out 510 lumens (claimed) while being driven at ~1.4 amps. However, the lights on kaidomain do not give the amperage, but claim 1000-1300 lumens. I was under the assumption that they were the exact same light but being sold by a different seller...is it possible they are actually different and being driven at a higher amperage hence the higher lumen claim?

And second, after seeing the high praise of the solarforce L2's, what do you guys think of this?
[link removed - DM51]
It's an L2 that comes with an xml. However, I noticed that the bodies of some of the ultrafire lights look identical- are the solarforce's really that much better and not just rebranded?

Thanks for the help! Iv'e been trying to do my research, so hopefully I didn't ask anything too lame

 

[lundeholm]

I read somewhere that KD are selling fake solarforces. If you want to buy from hong kong there are other sources with better reputation. I got my L2P from a place called solarforce-sales.

 

[Knives&Lights]

I like my SolarForce hosts much better than any other budget light. Their L2 host is good but the L2P is a bit higher quality and it tailstands. In the past year I have purchased several "budget" P60 drop in modules 4 XP-Gs and a 1 XM-L and they have all failed except one. Both of the Solarforce XP-G drop ins failed just after the 30 warranty expired. One Ultrafire XM-L and one of two Ultrafire XP-Gs failed just after the 30 days also. I put new driver boards on them and they work fine now but that added $7 to the original $20 I paid.
So if I could start over I would buy a SolarForce host or complete light and then purchase a higher quality drop in from Nailbenderor other CPF member. A nailbender XM-L drop in module is about $40 and is much better than a standard budget china drop in. Nailbender offers "plotting" for $5 more. "Potting is an option of filling the electronics cavity with thermal epoxy for heat dissipation and for shock." What good are two $20 budget drop-ins that fail after about 30 days? Wish i would have just started with a Nailbender.

 

[flush6ga]

Thanks. Lundeholm, did a quick search and indeed the solarforces at KD are fake...didn't even think of it so thanks for bringing that up

Any idea if KD and DX lights use the same drivers?

 

[stoli67]

I know that it is a bit more but I would start by buying a surefire 6P host .... bored out so you can use CR123s or 186500s.... I wish someone had ointed me here first!

I bought every Fenix light and a fair few other chinese ones and they are good but as someone once wrote .... they would rather have one great light than 10 so so ones... that is good advice....

With a good host you can change the drop in when ever you like... XPG, XML.... I dought a very cheap drop in from DX and it is great.... just don't believe the specs from the cheaper vendors...

If a recongised vendor says 200 lumens then it will be at least 200....if someone else says 850 lumens then it is probably 2/3 of the OTF (out the front) and probably only till it heats up!

Anyway that is my 2 Cents worth.

I did see a thread of basic recommendations somewhere when I finally found this forum.... not sure if the thread still exxits post crash .... It would have saved me a lot of money (initiallly at least)... most of those early lights have been given away or are now relegated to car emergency lights....

Good luck

 

[Brian10962001]

U2 is the newer bin for the XML, it will be more efficient (= brighter). It will also cost you a few dollars more. XML's are awesome, but you have to invest in the batteries to drive them (LiIons). I recommend almost every Solarforce light EXCEPT the regular L2. For less money you can get an L2i (my personal favorite) that will let you use 18650, or AAA's. For a bit more you can get the L2P with an better finish etc. L2m has a better feel than the L2 I have, and can be taken down for use as smaller flashlight.