The dealer might have them and may be fairly champing at the bit for a customer to pay their dealer prices for such a bulb.
I doubt they even go that far and probably only have just some cheap run-of-the-mill 9005 lightbulb. Although I do wish I would've kept the original lightbulbs just to have something to look at but since they were so bad and yes, whatever, those Sylvania ZXE's were worlds better over factory bulbs that I just tossed them in the trash. I had no need to keep them because they were that lousy and I even use that as argument on other Ram-based web forums for Facebook posts were somebody complains and says that the premium projector headlights in those fourth GEN ram trucks aren't worth a crap and I'll just simply ask is have you replaced the bulbs yet?… Lol. That's more than likely why you don't like them and before I bought my first bulb upgrade, I actually considered looking for a much better aftermarket pair of headlights. Kind of glad I didn't go that route.
Yep, if the LED in such a headlamp fails, it will require an entirely new lamp assembly. I won't say they're 'overengineered' but the lens of the lamp itself will degrade and ruin the lamp performance long before the LED(s) fail. Since the LED headlamps should not be considered a wear item, they may have a longer warranty and you'll at least have more leverage with the dealer ("One of the selling points of LEDs is that they never need replacement!").
Well that just makes even more of a reason to get some kind of a very extended or lifetime warranty whenever you buy one of these new vehicle's if all the sudden replacing a headlight bulb involves replacing the whole entire headlamp assembly.
For a given intensity of white light, white light that tends toward blue is more glaring than neutral white and even more so than white light tending toward yellow. And it's easy to equate the glaring effect of that blue-tinged light with "more light".
I'm pretty sure those Silverstar ultra's that I bought for my fog lights only have the blue tinge on the very end of the headlight bulb and at the base of the bulb but I cannot remember if the Silverstars that I had on an old 2004 dodge Dakota I once had and the Silverstar ultra's that I had in an old 2005 dodge stratus were clear, clear in the middle or if the whole bulb had blue tinge.
But we did not "pretty much say the same thing":
The myth is that "yellow light penetrates fog better than yellow light" or "breaks through fog". The myth is that it "doesn't reflect off fog light like the white light does". Light will reflect off fog regardless of the color.
The words pretty much are the operative words here. You said I
pretty much said the same thing but we did
not say the
same thing. Again, you went into depth- I did not, even if I did say yellow lights actually penetrate the fog, I only said that, I guess out of ignorance, because all the times when I've used yellow lights during foggy conditions, it really did seem like I could see through the fog instead of having that super bright white reflecting off the fog right back in my face making it worse Which is why you also don't want to use your highbeams. I just said that yellow lights are better for fog and on one perspective, it doesn't really matter why they're better, it just matters that they are better. That's all I was saying.
And with a halogen bulb there's never ever EVER a need to "loosen set screws" to adjust the position of the filament relative to the base because it always ends up in the correct position every time.
Of course there's not. Even though this isn't the correct reason, it's kind of the same thing as the HIDs because you have light coming out all the way around the circumference of the bulb. On most of the LED upgrades I've seen, you only have light coming out of the top or the bottom or one side of the other.
HID capsules also lock into place in the lamp assembly by means of a notch on the edge of the base and a pin in the lamp socket, and so cannot rotate. The return wire is in the right place and stays in the right place.
No need to comment here as I've pretty much already covered it in the above quote.
Right, the diameter of the bulb *base*. The envelope (the glass part)) diameter isn't issue, it's the plastic base with the tabs and the O-ring. The "20" and "22" in P20d and P22d is the diameter in millimeters (the "P" stands for "prefocus", which means that the bulb will be at the correct focus without any adjustments necessary when correctly installed).
Gotcha.