How to Kroll your Pelican M6 2320

[yazkaz]

@rrego

The light silver M6 (2320) is a rarity. It comes in HAII ano only and possibly with a twisty switch mechanism. It also comes with a focusable incan bulb design, as well as additional inner threads on the frontal battery tube side. I'd say, you may wish to consider this for collection.

BTW I also have original silver clicky tailcap spares available, should you want to swap out the entire twisty tailcap. I've personally checked (and reconditioned) every one of them, down to the stock clicky chassis, to ensure it works without issue. PM me for more info.

Meanwhile, you may want to consider the post-2014 M6 as regular user. As mentioned before, any host with the battery indicator etching on the tailcap should point to the post-2014 spec, which comes with a completely different stock clicky mecha design that I find it not as durable. In this case, replacing that clicky mecha with my type B Kroll assy is highly recommended.

AFAIK the M3 (3370) only comes in matt (thus the "chalky" feel) HAIII anodize in Hard Black (more towards charcoal grey IMO) and OD Green. All these are pre-2014 models.

Thje Kroll clicky assy's spring is likely to scratch the battery's -ve pad, but NOT enough to crush it.

As far as dropins are concerned, the M3/M6 requires a modified D26 module setup with longer +ve center spring. The LF module is one such example, having modified the entire lower skirt (heatsink and spring) just for this Peli application.

The other aftermarket module reported to work in this setup is the Malkoff. But that's pretty much it -- YMMV. For me I only stick to the LF ones. One will appreciate the LF design only after the module is installed and the entire light screwed back together.

 

[bykfixer]

Rrego, great score. Especially the silver one. Mine arrived with a 1 piece bulb assembly and busted clicky. It would fire, not not stay on.

It's been a while but if I recall correctly, when using a P60 you just twist the head farther down the body and with a Malkoff you stretch the center spring a bit. No outter spring required. Screw the head back on with no batteries in the body and it should go farther on the barrel than with the factory module.

Like yaz said, that bulb module in the silver one is super early and it's easier to find an honest politician than a replacement. So your options are Lumens Factory stuff, a Pentagon B-x2 replacement or you can find some Pelican bulb modules if you want to stay incan.

I will take mine apart this evening and see how I did it.

 

[rrego]

Awesome info guys! Thanks so much.

Dang, so maybe I will use the black one and save the sliver one.

Yazkaz - the silver one is a twisty switch. When I first got it, I swapped the black clicky internals with the silver internals, but I didn't realize at first that there was a difference. I didn't know the info that is in this thread. When I was done, the click did not work in the silver tailcap, so I switched them back. When I switched them back, the black worked as normal, but then the silver twist mechanism is now finicky and not 100% reliable (have to mess with it a little). From what I've read here, the brass ring inside might need to be adjusted? I might make some time to poke around in it again. I run the silver one on a 16650 at reduced brightness around the house, but I wanted to use that one, since I just like the sliver look, more than the standard black M6.

Yazkaz - your type b switch, is this a straight swap? Take out original psot 2014 clicky mechanism and install Kroll kit (only reusing the stock rubber boot? That easy?

Bykfixer - I'll have to check my black M6 as I don't remember if the head twists down further as you describe. I know the silver one does, so I might try the 3.7V incan drop in with the sliver head turned down.

 

[bykfixer]

rrego, it was a Pentagon eX2 that will twist down farther. Not the Peli. A spring stretch got the Malkoff module going. But a thick plumbing type o'ring between the lens and module can also work. It forces the module to press against the battery more and makes it so you don't have to take a chance on damaging the module.

I prefer the silver one as well. Hope you get the clicky working in it.

 

[rrego]

thank you bykfixer! :thumbsup:

 

[yazkaz]

Yazkaz - the silver one is a twisty switch. When I first got it, I swapped the black clicky internals with the silver internals, but I didn't realize at first that there was a difference. I didn't know the info that is in this thread. When I was done, the click did not work in the silver tailcap, so I switched them back. When I switched them back, the black worked as normal, but then the silver twist mechanism is now finicky and not 100% reliable (have to mess with it a little). From what I've read here, the brass ring inside might need to be adjusted? I might make some time to poke around in it again. I run the silver one on a 16650 at reduced brightness around the house, but I wanted to use that one, since I just like the sliver look, more than the standard black M6.

Yazkaz - your type b switch, is this a straight swap? Take out original psot 2014 clicky mechanism and install Kroll kit (only reusing the stock rubber boot? That easy?

The silver twisty tail host should work with the pre-2014 stock clicky internals. Well, almost...
I later found out there's some small difference between a stock twisty tailcap host and the stock clicky variant, in that certain components from the latter chassis may NOT fit into the former. But OTOH, once your remove the twisty internals I don't see why you should re-use them. Regardless of bulb type IMO you might just consider the upgrade -- in this case the type A Kroll assy for your silver tail host.

Meanwhile your post-2014 tailcap's clicky mecha will NOT work on a tail host that comes with full internal threads. Again, I find that the po-st2014 clicky mehanism is no reliable either: not only it gives you a weird deep clicky actuation feel, but also the main clicky plunger part may break apart after prolonged use, due to the plastic plunger casing being weakened, this detaching itself from the base PCB.

Last year I was maintaining some other customer's M6 (post-2014) during which the entire clicky plunger part just broke apart inside the chassis, causing the clicky to fail. In the end I had to sacrifice (ie. I didn't charge him) one type B Kroll assy to take care of the problem.

And YES, the type B Kroll assy is a straight swap after you remove everything from the tailcap host. Make sure you have your needle nose pliers ready.
Retention of the stock boot is OK, but again, I recommend getting silicone spares from me and keep the stock boot on reserve.

 

[rrego]

Thanks Yazkaz...I thought I had posted this comment, but I guess I forgot to click "post"... :thinking: