ICON Rogue 1xAA Review: RUNTIMES, ANALYSIS, BEAMSHOTS and more!

T45

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Sep 23, 2010
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Wichita KS
Just bought an Icon Rogue 1 from LA Police Gear at a great price, and so far, I like this light! Good length for my hands, momentary on/off tail cap switch, the high and low are well spaced apart and the beam is free from artifacts, donuts, or rings.
 

jagpad

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Oct 2, 2011
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Awesome review, I vote for the non kitchen paring Fenix though


:nana:
 
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virginia
The 14500 pushes the ICON Rogue 1 hard but then you're not using 14500 batteries because you want to play it safe in the slow lane.

I put a 14500 in the light i just got today and it is CONSIDERABLY brighter than the standard AA. Is the light designed for the 14500 like my tenergy? I do not want to damage it. I just wonder how LONG term use of 14500 will do.
 
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just got an email from Icon, it says :

Hi Andrew,

We do not recommend using these batteries with the lights. Please stick with the AA's.

Thanks,
Heidi

so this means it is not designed for 14500s.
 

Roood

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A friends Rogue 1 and Rogue 2 lights were having some issues with Flickering in the LED. Since no one ever got to post pics of the tail switch or stated it cannot be accessed. Move the rubber boot, you should be able to find a retaining ring with the standard two holes for the tool to open it (unscrew counter clockwise). Was able to disassemble the Tail Switch Assembly. Here are some pics:

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DM51

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Interesting to see the disassembly - I don't think it has been done before. I assumed they were glued solid, and impossible to disassemble. I dare say many others assumed the same.

Good work! It proves that sooner or later, even the most stubborn and intractable item will succumb to the fiendish ingenuity of a dedicated CPFer! :clap:
 

Roood

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Lol. Thanks. I was not able to open the encased LED and Switch though, I am assuming that the switch might be mechanical because of the amount of lube that it was soaking with.
 

T45

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Interesting to see the disassembly - I don't think it has been done before. I assumed they were glued solid, and impossible to disassemble. I dare say many others assumed the same.

Good work! It proves that sooner or later, even the most stubborn and intractable item will succumb to the fiendish ingenuity of a dedicated CPFer! :clap:

VESTUREOFBLOOD does some Mod work on these lights. Gave me a good price to replace the plastic lense. Just haven't sent it to him yet.
 

Roood

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Can you please ask him to share how he removed the lens? I was able to remove mine by breaking it as it needed replacing it anyway. The reflector is amazing and kinda flexible for some reason..
 

Bimmerboy

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Long Island, NY
Good work, Roood. And thank you for the pics! :thumbsup:

Looks like there was very little, to no threadlocker on your parts. Did they come off relatively easy without boiling, extreme wrenching, etc.?

The switch appears to be locked into that metal housing. In your estimation, is there any way of getting it out without destroying the housing, and can you take a pic of the button side?
 
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oranges

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May 13, 2008
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Hi everyone. I am a light noob, but really like this flashlight. I was curious though... anyone else have it automatically dim after only a few seconds of being on?
 

selfbuilt

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Canada
Hi everyone. I am a light noob, but really like this flashlight. I was curious though... anyone else have it automatically dim after only a few seconds of being on?
As you'll see in the main review, it is normal for the light to dim after several mins (and so gradually, that you can't notice it for awhile).

But if it is dimming visibly in the first few secs, that sounds like your battery is nearly fully drained. Try a fresh cell and see what happens.
 

Roood

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Good work, Roood. And thank you for the pics! :thumbsup:

Looks like there was very little, to no threadlocker on your parts. Did they come off relatively easy without boiling, extreme wrenching, etc.?

The switch appears to be locked into that metal housing. In your estimation, is there any way of getting it out without destroying the housing, and can you take a pic of the button side?

nope, just a small plier, no boiling etc. the thread locks seem to be "brittle", same goes with my friends rogue 2. the other side of the switch is the click button, no way to get through that side. i was planning to pry open the sides of the spring area but i might damage it. maybe one day i will once i get a p1. hehehe
 
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