Introducing: Cree XR-E Turbo LED Module - updated!

[Tritium]

All of the Turbo Modules I have are made to focus with a Luxeon. I haven`t seen a SSC P4 except for pictures. I`ll play with focusing when I get mine but I feel 99.99% sure McGizmo is dead on with removing .030" to focus. Yup, just can`t trust that McGizmo guy 100%. :shrug: His flashlights are awesome but I found out the batteries go dead in his lights just like the el cheapo lights so he lost the .01% for that let down. Hehe! Anyway, I`m not opposed to removing .030" off the reflector in my KT4 to get the SSC P4 to focus better but I believe I will start with the Mcr series reflectors first. If I mess one up, they are el cheapo reflectors compared to the KT4. Ooops! I mean they cost less! :rock: Great value!:thumbsup: Bang for your buck! ..... I like`m a lot.:sweat:

Ken:laughing:

Why adjust the reflector? Just remove .030 from the post of the module then mount the led or if the McGizmo removal of .030 was intended for the reflector then add a .030 shim to the top of the post then mount the led.

Thurmond

 

[wquiles]

Why adjust the reflector? Just remove .030 from the post of the module then mount the led or if the McGizmo removal of .030 was intended for the reflector then add a .030 shim to the top of the post then mount the led.

Thurmond

I agree, better not to modify the reflector.

I have not build my new Turbo LED HS for the Seoul yet (project for this weekend), but if I understood McGizmo properly, and based on my own experience now with the Cree XR-E, the LED has to be "deeper" inside the reflector, so removing .030 from the module makes it worst. Same for putting shims between the module and the reflector - that also moves the LED in the wrong direction. You either cut the reflector from the bulb side (which then puts the LED deeper), or you create a new, taller HS . Adding a shim to the top "would" work to push the LED in the right direction, but now you have an extra layer/partition between the LED and the heat sink - it works, but it is not as efficient as having the LED thermal epoxied directly to the heat sink (HS).

Just like I did with the Cree XR-E reflector above, I will build my prototype a tad taller than what it should, so that I can then (using thin shims) find the optimal focus - once I have this new height, we are in business to make more for sale if folks are interested :naughty:

Will

 

[IsaacHayes]

Kenster: They shoppe has .03" copper shims to use with the SSC P4. Just use one of those and leave the reflector alone!! It's only 50cents for the shim, I know you can afford that!!

wquiles: I think they mean take some material off the base of the module that sits on the reflector, not the actual post. That way the post sits up further in the reflector after the top base is thinned down. Also those .03" copper shims from the SS can be soldered to the P4 LED slug if you are worried about another thermal interface. Then you still just have one layer of AA epoxy.

 

[wquiles]

wquiles: I think they mean take some material off the base of the module that sits on the reflector, not the actual post. That way the post sits up further in the reflector after the top base is thinned down. Also those .03" copper shims from the SS can be soldered to the P4 LED slug if you are worried about another thermal interface. Then you still just have one layer of AA epoxy.

Ahhh - yes, that would also work - thanks for clarifying that for me

Will

 

[kenster]

Best way to do the SSC P4 in a KT4 is a new .030" taller module like will has already figured out. The KT4 with the shock deal in it already has heat issues(I have read) so adding a shim under a P4 might not be the best idea. I did order some of those .030" copper shims from the Shoppe so I might just drop a SSC P4 in that way for a spedy way to check out what P4 can do as far as throw. :thinking: I forgot about another thrower I have that a Cree could fit through the reflector hole without having to trim down to the ring like Will did. The head is a little smaller than a KT4. Emitter is a K2 mounted on a tower that screws into the head instead of just sliding in. I stuck a Surefire 3P battery tube and switch on it. Looks funny and kind of like a shruken version of my M4. It throws a tighter spot than my M4 and reads 4680 Lux at 3 feet which is higher than my M4 with WX0T reads. Well, now I made myself want to shove a Cree in that light so I guess it`s time to heat up the soldering iron.

Ken

Ken

 

[nemul]

good job