Introducing the Milkyspit L1cx2 "Legolas"

Blindasabat

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Crenshaw, are you still enjoying this light?:D
...
Oddly, fully tightened, it isnt one tight hotspot, its still a smaller hotspot with spill..etc...unlike what you typically find in Surefire LED TIR lights.

Crenshaw
I have a KX1 that came to me unglued from the factory, so I have played with the focus too. Fully tightened mine is just past tightest focus & has some spill. Just short of tightened it has the most throw. This is is likely what SF was going for because they appear to have the 'room' in the threads to focus it before the epoxy dries, then let it dry and stay focused.

Milky stated in another Creemator thread that he could change the optic height for best focus when fully tightened.

I tried to search for the pictures, but I can't view photo host site pictures from this computer (work) so I can't identify them.
 

milkyspit

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Crenshaw, are you still enjoying this light?:D
I have a KX1 that came to me unglued from the factory, so I have played with the focus too. Fully tightened mine is just past tightest focus & has some spill. Just short of tightened it has the most throw. This is is likely what SF was going for because they appear to have the 'room' in the threads to focus it before the epoxy dries, then let it dry and stay focused.

Milky stated in another Creemator thread that he could change the optic height for best focus when fully tightened.

I tried to search for the pictures, but I can't view photo host site pictures from this computer (work) so I can't identify them.


I don't recall which thread had those photos, either! :ohgeez: But I can say the focus isn't full flood to full throw, but rather allows for fine tuning of what is basically a throwy beam. It can be focused down to a narrow, mostly spot beam... or defocused enough to make a more classical beam consisting of a moderate hotspot plus modest amount of sidespill... can even be defocused right to the brink of losing an excessive amount of photons, where (right on that edge of things) the beam becomes a much larger but proportionally less intense spot. The fine tuning also allows focus to be optimized for a particular distance, so the beam converges at the desired range; and/or to tune out various artifacts for overall a cleaner beam. The top part of the head can also be unscrewed completely for temporary use of the light as a pure, mule-style flooder. IMHO the range of functionality, while not perfect, is still pretty handy.
 

Crenshaw

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I don't recall which thread had those photos, either! :ohgeez: But I can say the focus isn't full flood to full throw, but rather allows for fine tuning of what is basically a throwy beam. It can be focused down to a narrow, mostly spot beam... or defocused enough to make a more classical beam consisting of a moderate hotspot plus modest amount of sidespill... can even be defocused right to the brink of losing an excessive amount of photons, where (right on that edge of things) the beam becomes a much larger but proportionally less intense spot. The fine tuning also allows focus to be optimized for a particular distance, so the beam converges at the desired range; and/or to tune out various artifacts for overall a cleaner beam. The top part of the head can also be unscrewed completely for temporary use of the light as a pure, mule-style flooder. IMHO the range of functionality, while not perfect, is still pretty handy.

+1
yup, im still enjoying it, its still in my bag everyday, and in my pocket when im not carying a bag. The ease of a Low mode with a soft press, and a higher mode just a harder press away.....its really its really why People buy the L series in the first place, coupled with the lower low, and powerful high, its still a great light that i think will only become outdated when Emitters jump in efficiency. Or else, in terms of aesthetics, perhaps when the new LX1 comes out, i may look into geting one of those done up..

Crenshaw
 

xcel730

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Hey Crenshaw ... long time no talk :wave:

Is this your second ML1, or did you mod your old one?

I've disappeared from CPF ever since I got my Milky modded L1 8 months ago, and it's still one of my favorite lights. I called Milky today and blamed him for my disappearance from CPF because he built such a great light for me. I also spoke with him to discuss about a unique Milky build :devil:. My ML1 is going to have a sibling .... well, more like a cousin. :party:
 

Crenshaw

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Hey Crenshaw ... long time no talk :wave:

Is this your second ML1, or did you mod your old one?

I've disappeared from CPF ever since I got my Milky modded L1 8 months ago, and it's still one of my favorite lights. I called Milky today and blamed him for my disappearance from CPF because he built such a great light for me. I also spoke with him to discuss about a unique Milky build :devil:. My ML1 is going to have a sibling .... well, more like a cousin. :party:

hey, yeah its been awhile....well this was my second L1..i bought it on bst and had it shipped directly to milky. i actually sold my ML1 after getting the legolas, i couldnt justify keeping both financially. cant wait to see what your new build will be. give us a peek? whats the host?

black06, email is usually the best way..:) you gotta be patient though..he is a busy man..
you can also try to pm him over at market place..

Crenshaw
 

milkyspit

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Milky, how do I contact you to discuss making one of these?

My PM inbox is often full lately, though you can try that. Or you could send me PM on CPF Marketplace. Or (maybe the best way) send me an email...

img-email-milky-quarryrun-com.gif


If you put "CPF" and your username somewhere in the subject line, it makes things much easier on my end. TIA! :eek:
 

black06

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Scott, please give me an estimate of when you will be able to talk/work on this light.

I have a base L1 already.

Thanks
 

milkyspit

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Scott, please give me an estimate of when you will be able to talk/work on this light.

I have a base L1 already.

Thanks


Black06, I tried to contact you at the phone number you provided but there was no answer. Please contact me at your convenience.

Crenshaw, I'm curious after you've had some time to use the light.. how is the firmware working for you?
 

Crenshaw

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Hi Scott, Sorry i didnt see the question earlier....

Its still one of my easiest to use lights...the firmare works fine, I hardly use the Miser mode actually as most of the time i have access to power, and am more in need to of a very bright light. I think the simplicity of the modes work very well for me.

The one thing i am wondering about though, is why the optimum (meaning most hotspot, less spill) beam isnt when the optic is screwed all the way down? its not a problem, although i do remember Surefire optics being that way when thier locktited.

Crenshaw
 

milkyspit

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Hi Scott, Sorry i didnt see the question earlier....

Its still one of my easiest to use lights...the firmare works fine, I hardly use the Miser mode actually as most of the time i have access to power, and am more in need to of a very bright light. I think the simplicity of the modes work very well for me.

The one thing i am wondering about though, is why the optimum (meaning most hotspot, less spill) beam isnt when the optic is screwed all the way down? its not a problem, although i do remember Surefire optics being that way when thier locktited.

Crenshaw

Crenshaw, as far as I've been able to tell, SureFire designed their TIR optic and the head itself so tightest focus would happen somewhere close to, but not quite at the bottom of the threaded range. I suspect they did that so each head could be adjusted in the factory to optimal focus before the Loktite dried. Taking this approach allows for some variability from piece to piece without adversely impacting the beam.
 

Crenshaw

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Crenshaw, as far as I've been able to tell, SureFire designed their TIR optic and the head itself so tightest focus would happen somewhere close to, but not quite at the bottom of the threaded range. I suspect they did that so each head could be adjusted in the factory to optimal focus before the Loktite dried. Taking this approach allows for some variability from piece to piece without adversely impacting the beam.

I see..okay that makes sense..thanks!

EDIT:

Scott! i just did somehting relaly stupid to the light....the LEDs dome came off, i sent you a pm about it....GAH :ohgeez: :ohgeez:

Crenshaw
 
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Buck-O

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I see..okay that makes sense..thanks!

EDIT:

Scott! i just did somehting relaly stupid to the light....the LEDs dome came off, i sent you a pm about it....GAH :ohgeez: :ohgeez:

Crenshaw
Crenshaw--
Just wondering what the fix was for the dome.
 

milkyspit

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Crenshaw--
Just wondering what the fix was for the dome.


I don't believe Crenshaw has fixed it yet, and his light has not reached me as of yet, though it is en route at the moment. When a Cree XR-E dome gets sheared off the emitter, in most cases there is no acceptable fix... could try epoxy and gently reattach but in most cases the output won't be the same as with a stock emitter... in many cases the emitter will no longer light at all!
:ohgeez:
 

Crenshaw

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The Legolas head has been shipped back to milky. Looking into fixing AND doing some small upgrades. watch this space!

:D

Crenshaw
 

Crenshaw

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Its BACK :devil:
DSC05344.jpg



Its the same formula, but now with Q3 5A tint!

DSC05345.jpg


DSC05347.jpg


beamshots to come!

Crenshaw
 
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