Looking for Ideas on Plastic Canoe Re-Enforcement & Repair.

[TigerhawkT3]

:wave: :laughing:

Yeah, the Duracoat is sprayed on, so it would probably be too thin, although Lauer says that Duracoat is great because of its elasticity, so I don't know how much "give" it would or wouldn't have. :shrug:

How about this: apply a sort of mosaic-tile pattern of JB Stik in small hexagonal (or octagon and square, or any other repeating pattern) patches around 2" across, with very thin gaps in between, like a tortoise shell. This could give some protection against bumps while still letting the plastic body flex on impact. Plus, it would add some "tacticool bling" to your canoe!

 

[Diesel_Bomber]

If your canoe IS polyethylene you're going to have a devil of a time finding something that'll stick. Superglue bottles are made out of polyethylene for a reason. You might try something like Plasti-Dip (they have several products) or some some sort of RTV silicone. You might have to brush or spray whatever you choose on and let it cure to form a pad, then use duct tape to actually hold the form-fitted pad in place. The Plasti-Dip is available at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware and the like; the silicone at any auto parts store. Good luck, and please post pics of whatever you wind up with.

:buddies:

Edit: There's also lots of stuff similar to the RTV silicone in the caulking section of the big box stores for much less $$ than the automotive grade stuff. Not like yours will need to stand up to 250 degrees F and oil or fuel. Good luck.

 

[bfg9000]

The rubberized truck undercoating I tried doesnt seem to want to dry for some reason, and is not sticking very well at all.

In my experience that stuff never does dry. I don't think it's supposed to.

Spray/roll-on bedliner on the other hand is some pretty tough stuff, or you could consider Gorilla Glue mounted angle-iron on the bow if you needed something really tough (icebreaker style).

 

[BIGIRON]

I was wondering about that "classic" motor. If it uses a pressurized tank it's from the '50's or so????? Very nice.

edit - if your canoe is polyethelene, I'll bet a repair kit for an RV holding/water tank would work. Any RV dealer should have one.

One of the downsides of the RamX is that it will "hold" on rocks instead of sliding as will aluminum or hard gelcoat.

 

[jtice]

Yep, you guessed right.

It is a Johnson CD-14 5.5 HP made in 1957
Amazing, they just dont makem like they used to
More about it here, http://www.jtice.com/blogs/boat_3-19-07/index.htm

~John

 

[BIGIRON]

Great blog post. You were indeed fortunate to find that engine in that condition. It's too nice to use!

Helpful hint #1 - if you haven't laid in a supply of the proper size shear pins and cotter pins, do so. You obviously play around rocky rivers, so you will shear a pin sooner or later. You might want to stash pliers (or, this being CPF, a multitool) permanently to the boat or motor.

#2 We use 5 or 7 gallon plastic buckets (standard paint type) with screw-on sealing tops (from Sportsmans Guide) for our canoe/boat camping. Holds backpacking stuff just fine. Lash them to the boat just in case, but they will float. You can use them for seats at camp, carry water, firewood, etc. (Also use them to store our dry dogfood at home. Keeps food fresh and varmints out)

 

[jtice]

Yea I know, we just love the motor, and I am usually not into the older stuff, I am a new tech junky
Its funny, the motor is 50 years old, and we know its gonna out last the boat LOL

We did get a couple pins with it, and to tell you the truth, we have no damn idea where they go LOL
Are they for the drive shaft?
The motor mount tilts, and has a lock, we keep it UNlocked,
so that if the motor hits something, it can just swing out, instead of being LOCKED to the boats stern.

Great idea with the paint buckets !!!!!
Closet thing I can find to what you described are these.
http://shop.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=328956

But I dont think that is what you are talking about, I dont think its water tight.

~John

 

[jtice]

ahhh wait, were you referring to these?

http://shop.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=266012

 

[BIGIRON]

Yes, the second ones.

The shear pins go through the prop hub and the prop shaft. When you hit a rock or something, they break instead of the prop. They do fatigue and get weaker with use. Running with the tilt unlocked will help protect the lower unit, but really won't protect the prop.

NOW is the time to practice replacing one, not on the river. At night. In the rain.

 

[jtice]

Thanks alot for the tips.
I will check out those sheer pins for sure.

~John

 

[CNC Dan]

you need to learn how to weld plastic.

Get a container of simmilar plastic to practice on.

You will need a sliver or rod of filler plastic. Use a big soldering gun as your heat source. You will need to heat the area you want to build up, as well as the filler rod. You will need to push the rod into the irons tip as you drag the hot tip allong your target area. Don't worry how it looks at first, you can smothe it out later.

there is a special tool just for welding plastics, but I bet it's expensive.

If you can't find the filler rod that matches your boat, see if you can cut a strip from an edge of one of the sections.

 

[jtice]

CNC Dan,

I have done stuff sorta like that in the past, but more for reshaping, not repairing a crack or hole.
I saw one site that had alittle info on this, and it showed the same techique you mentioned.
I will have to test this would also, that could be a great alternative.

~John

 

[raggie33]

jtice is realy going to try to go over niagra falls i bet

 

[BIGIRON]

Another thought. After you dry out from the Niagra Falls adventure, you might check with an auto body shop. They weld plastic all the time and might add reinforcement for a few bucks.