Looking to to buy a Surefire (or equivalent reliability) incan.

[BirdofPrey]

So long as I get to bug-in, not concerned with cold and lithium ion not dealing well with it. I'm currently putting together my plans for an underground home.
As for lithium ion not doing well in the cold, I spent many a twelve hour shift working outside in the winter time with my light on my duty belt. Still worked every time I needed it. I would still only charge once a week or two depending on how often it got used.

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

 

[ampdude]

As for lithium ion not doing well in the cold, I spent many a twelve hour shift working outside in the winter time with my light on my duty belt. Still worked every time I needed it..

Same. Only used AW cells and tried to keep them near my body temperature while away from the car or a building. I feel that they are not a reliable long term chemistry for extended outdoor use though in extreme conditions. I think it is about on par with NiMh, maybe a little better overall in chemistry, but gets an extra minus for the pretty much required circuit protection.

 

[riccardo]

I don't believe that an EMP will be able to affect a well built led flashlight, it is simply completely shielded. Only two small holes are left, one in correspondence of the led and one in the tailcap.

Store them in a metal box and you can be 100% sure. If still not convincing, prepare a few direct-driven P60 and you're done. Limit current with resistors ... not the best efficiency but bomb-proof.

 

[BirdofPrey]

I don't believe that an EMP will be able to affect a well built led flashlight, it is simply completely shielded. Only two small holes are left, one in correspondence of the led and one in the tailcap.

EMP would follow the wires down into the driver and pop it. Regardless of how well built it is, the LED is a perfect "antenna" for the EMP signal.


Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

 

[gravelmonkey]

I wouldn't describe you as a 'mild prepper', you've waded up to your neck in it!

Streamlight and Underwater Kinetics still make some nice incan lights in a variety of cell formats (and some with ATEX cert. if that appeals to you...)

Though, I still don't get why an incan bulb would survive when an LED wouldn't :thinking:. But hey, you asked for lights not criticism, I enjoy my LED's and you want incans. Horses for courses.

 

[BirdofPrey]

Though, I still don't get why an incan bulb would survive when an LED wouldn't :thinking:.

Trying to think of an easy way to explain.

Incans are essentially analog. LEDs are digital (overly simplified) and therefore have long long rows of wire. Long wires are antennas for the wavelengths that EMPs produce.
Hopefully that helps a little. In the end I resort to sending you to Google.


Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

 

[riccardo]

The length of wires that are inside the cage (the flashlight's body) are shielded and doesn't count as antenna. The few mm just behind the reflector opening are not enough to pick up any pulse strong enough to fry the LED or the driver.
Especially if the driver is one of the simplest, single mode, current limited without dc-dc switching tech.

 

[BirdofPrey]

The length of wires that are inside the cage (the flashlight's body) are shielded and doesn't count as antenna. The few mm just behind the reflector opening are not enough to pick up any pulse strong enough to fry the LED or the driver.
Especially if the driver is one of the simplest, single mode, current limited without dc-dc switching tech.

The LED itself has quite a bit of wire in it.

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

 

[ampdude]

I guess when the next EMP hits we'll find out how truly reliable the electronics in LED's are. :tinfoil:

 

[gravelmonkey]

I guess when the next EMP hits we'll find out how truly reliable the electronics in LED's are. :tinfoil:

I suppose if you were really paranoid, you could go with a D cell cheapish PR host, fit an 'aftermarket' PR style LED 'bulb' and have a box of PR incan bulbs incase your LED gets fried and some 2AA>D cell adaptors to scavenge cells.

Edit: Whoops, forgot to recommend Pelican lights.

 

[ampdude]

I suppose if you were really paranoid, you could go with a D cell cheapish PR host, fit an 'aftermarket' PR style LED 'bulb' and have a box of PR incan bulbs incase your LED gets fried and some 2AA>D cell adaptors to scavenge cells.

Edit: Whoops, forgot to recommend Pelican lights.

Already done...