Lumintop Worm (1xAAA, XP-E R2) SS & Aluminum Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS and more!

[shelm]

Re: Lumintop Worm (1xAAA, XP-E R2) SS & Aluminum Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS and more

Fantastic picture, never seen such a thing before, thanks so much!!
And also the quality of the photo is great (big picture, sharp shot).

i dont see anything wrong with the original XP-G R5 LED (the stainless worm). it is bright and tint is good too
Ah you prefer High CRI.

okay that's a totally different story :devil:
on led star + is red cable, - is white cable

 

[jorn]

Re: Lumintop Worm (1xAAA, XP-E R2) SS & Aluminum Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS and more

The original led was a white tinted xp-e, nothing wrong with the led. I always swap a led or something if i get bored. Modding lights is more fun than using them The few stock lights i have left , is mostly rare, or really expensive ones. Might end up testing the new XB-D led for fun (to see if it can throw) when they got the diferent tints out on the marked.

 

[cave dave]

Re: Lumintop Worm (1xAAA, XP-E R2) SS & Aluminum Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS and more

I can't find anyplace but ebay and a CPF German dealer to find the aluminum version. Do we have a USA based CPF dealer stocking these? PM me if you know of one.

 

[shelm]

Re: Lumintop Worm (1xAAA, XP-E R2) SS & Aluminum Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS and more

Someone asked to see the worm's driverboard in another thread, posting it here so we can keep all the worm info in one thread. sandwitch is "potted" with a thick layer of epoxy. (the led is not original, a neutral xp-g from cutter) waiting for a hi cri xp-g:devil:

Thanks for sharing these photos. I could post my own lol! Here my story:

i finally got my Worm SS too, great light! what happened:

argh, i didnt know that the driver disc was supposed to screw out/turn the aluminum pill by the help of the 2 aluminum grooves. with my new tweezers i tried to turn the driver disc (without heating) and then the driver disc slid out off its hold at the edges (the 2 grooves!) of the aluminum pill.

i didnt know what i was doing so i continued to "screw off" the PCB (because i couldnt get it back in place (because i didnt know what the PCB, driver disc and aluminum were all about)) and i noticed that the PCB didnt want to come off because of the 2 wires. yet i continued (because i didnt know what i was doing) to screw off the driver disc and eventually the PCB came off! consequence: 2 torn wires and a stuck aluminum pill, yikes!

Next problem was to screw out the aluminum pill itself. Its threads were glued (as i knew), and i didnt want to heat up anything. So i stuck my fine tweezer tips thru the 2 deck wire holes of the aluminum pill and slowly applied some force (torque). No problem, the "silicone grease"-like glue let the threads go -- was really easy to screw off the aluminum pill. Finally!

Now i am realizing how tiny everything is, very fine (and no, my PCB sandwich is *not* potted or epoxied!). So how i do i fix the broken wires? I am guessing i need to get fine wires (silicone insulation), solder off the 4(four!) torn wire parts, then first solder the 2 wires onto the PCB, then insert the PCB sandwich into the aluminum pill (with the wires thru the 2 holes), apply some thermal paste on the aluminum deck, put the LED star (XP-g R5) back in place, cut the wires, and finally solder them back onto the LED star. Is the order of steps correct? How difficult is this procedure? ( i mean... these wires and solder points are super tiny!! )

( i am thinking: if Lumintop hadnt glued the pill threads, i wouldnt have torn the wires. it's all their fault!! :shakehead )

btw, my PCB sandwich looks a little different than yours (PCB design).