Macs EDC XM-L has landed

shado

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Thanks for the beamshots. Did you mean to say 18350 or 16340 for the sst-50?

Looks like the xm-l has a brighter hotspot than the sst-50 but the beam profile is actually very similar. If anything, maybe the xm-l has a slightly tighter hotspot, but not as much as I would have thought.

Late night typing error :tired: it was a AW IMR16340 in the SST-50 :thumbsup:
 

JHCANDLEPOWER

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Aug 3, 2008
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Tri vs XM-L

Appreciate the photo to compare the two. I was leaning towards the XM-L and awaiting beam shot comparisons. I was surprised that the XM-L is a bit longer than the Tri. Beam performance aside, which one balances and holds better? Between the Tri and XML, does one heat more when run on high for more than short bursts?

By the way, the copper on the Tri still looks great. Do you routinely clean it? I got a maratac copper AAA and it tarnishes shortly in time (even with no usage). I would be very pleased if this is how it ages.

Best Regards
 

shado

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Re: Tri vs XM-L

Appreciate the photo to compare the two. I was leaning towards the XM-L and awaiting beam shot comparisons. I was surprised that the XM-L is a bit longer than the Tri. Beam performance aside, which one balances and holds better? Between the Tri and XML, does one heat more when run on high for more than short bursts?

By the way, the copper on the Tri still looks great. Do you routinely clean it? I got a maratac copper AAA and it tarnishes shortly in time (even with no usage). I would be very pleased if this is how it ages.

Best Regards

They both feel good in hand and I don't notice a difference in balance. The Tri-EDC heats up a little quicker than the XM-L, but it's not an issue with either in Copper! Most of my lights sit under Glass or in Pelican Cases and don't need regular cleaning. I do carry a Brass Hinderer pen and posted my results Here. Mac makes great lights and I don't think you will be disappointed with whatever you choose!

Thanks
Todd
 

easilyled

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Jun 25, 2004
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Re: Tri vs XM-L

Both are Cool 2.8, but the Tri-EDC is closer to neutral. The Tri-EDC is a little brighter on a ceiling bounce.

Thanks. That implies therefore that the Tri-EDC is still pushing out more overall lumens then although the XM-L has more throw.
 

calflash

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Jun 13, 2010
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Re: Tri vs XM-L

You know, Mac's website says that he measured 575 lumens from the EDC XM-L and 490 lumens from the TRI-EDC. Could the perceived difference in the ceiling bounce be because the xm-l produces a tighter spot? I've read that floody beams look brighter than tight beams in ceiling bounce tests even when the output is close on both lights. I think because of the flooded light is hitting a broader reflective surface on the ceiling?
 

easilyled

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Re: Tri vs XM-L

You know, Mac's website says that he measured 575 lumens from the EDC XM-L and 490 lumens from the TRI-EDC. Could the perceived difference in the ceiling bounce be because the xm-l produces a tighter spot? I've read that floody beams look brighter than tight beams in ceiling bounce tests even when the output is close on both lights. I think because of the flooded light is hitting a broader reflective surface on the ceiling?

Very difficult to say. One possiblility might be that Mac measured them with freshly charged cells. Perhaps shado did his ceiling bounce a little while later and by this time the XM-L may have dropped more than the TRI-EDC. I do know that any small battery supplying 2.8A will drop the amount of current it can supply extremely quickly.
 

monkeyboy

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Re: Tri vs XM-L

How easy is it to disassemble the XM-L EDC? I was thinking I could get one in copper and take it apart to gold or nickel plate, then reassemble it. This would prevent it from tarnishing.
 

fyrstormer

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Re: Tri vs XM-L

How easy is it to disassemble the XM-L EDC? I was thinking I could get one in copper and take it apart to gold or nickel plate, then reassemble it. This would prevent it from tarnishing.
Nickel-plating copper should be a crime. If you're going to nickel-plate something, at least make the base metal something uninteresting to look at. Perhaps a bare aluminum light would be better if you really want to nickel-plate it.
 

edumacated

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Jan 6, 2007
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Vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: Tri vs XM-L

You could get an aluminum one and cerakote it (many colours available) or get the copper and have it powdercoated clear.

And no, not hard to disassemble at all, need a micro-allen for the clip screws though.
 
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