My Search for a compact, high CRI, 18650 Flashlight (Newest from Zebralight)

[Keletic]

I currently have an Eagle Tactical D25C Ti with a XM-L2 T6 Neutral White LED. I love this flashlight for the accurate color rendering, size, and UI. Unfortunately, I need something with higher output in a similar sized package. After much research (ask me about my findings if you'd like), I've narrowed it down to two of Zebralight's latest flashlights,the SC600Fc Mk IV Plus (4000k) and the SC600Fd Mk IV Plus (5000k). Each ofthese lights have a CRI of around 93-95 and around 1,800 lumens. Does anyone havesome comparisons between the two tint colors? What are your opinions of these lights? Are there any other high CRIcompacts you might recommend? Thanks in advance!

http://www.zebralight.com/SC600Fc-Mk-IV-Plus-18650-XHP50-Floody-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_228.html

http://www.zebralight.com/SC600Fd-Mk-IV-Plus-18650-XHP50-Floody-5000K-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_227.html

 

[eh4]

I'm waiting for the complaints and the glitches to subside and for the second run, but the MK IV lights look to be excellent... the 35 and 70 die leds seem like they'll always be optimal for the floody or pure flood variants due to die size,
I'm not going to bother with a clear lens of the reflector version if they're offered.

I'm also not in a hurry to get another pure flood Zebralight, though the MK II 602W that I have is a very nice work light, and realistically it gets the most use, and provides the most weekly hours of service,
doing work at arms length, definitely not a general purpose light though. And it's already better than it needs to be as a headlamp, no incremental upgrade is needed.

To me, after all the bugs are worked out, and the MK V is on the comparison spreadsheet before pre-order, the H600Fc MK IV is the light to get.

-So I only care about the H model lights, but aside from the 90 degree angle and smaller reflector size, I believe they're directly comparable to the SC models, and your question.

 

[eh4]

To your question about tint, everything I've learned about color temperature ends up backing up the theory (hypothesis?) of Kruithof's curve: that the brighter the light is, the cooler we're going to want it to be, and the dimmer it is, the warmer we'll want it to be... to see best.
This really seems to be correct in my experience so far, not only that, but the brighter the light is, the more unbearable warmer light is, while cooler and cooler lights are better tolerated at higher and higher intensities...
So 1000-2000 lumens is a lot of light, but you don't look at your hand at that level, but use it for distance...
I think it's still in the zone where warmer is better.
The 4000K Fc variant is the light that I'm interested in, personally.
If I were going to use the newer ZL lights on their highest settings at close range for some reason then I'd go for the Fd variant instead.

 

[Tachead]

To your question about tint, everything I've learned about color temperature ends up backing up the theory (hypothesis?) of Kruithof's curve: that the brighter the light is, the cooler we're going to want it to be, and the dimmer it is, the warmer we'll want it to be... to see best.
This really seems to be correct in my experience so far, not only that, but the brighter the light is, the more unbearable warmer light is, while cooler and cooler lights are better tolerated at higher and higher intensities...
So 1000-2000 lumens is a lot of light, but you don't look at your hand at that level, but use it for distance...
I think it's still in the zone where warmer is better.
The 4000K Fc variant is the light that I'm interested in, personally.
If I were going to use the newer ZL lights on their highest settings at close range for some reason then I'd go for the Fd variant instead.

I don't agree with this at all. And, it should kept in mind that tint and colour temperature (CCT) are not the same thing so, they shouldn't be used interchangeably.

Personally, I think it is best to choose a colour temperature that best matches the ambient lighting you will be using it in. Cooler CCT's for daytime supplemental use and warmer CCT's for nighttime use just as a loose example.

The human eye/brain automatically white/colour balances and by using a CCT that best matches the ambient lighting, it will require less adjustment and be less of a shock(less harsh) on your eyes. The light will also look less coloured right away as your eyes/brain don't have to adjust to the new colour.

Then there is the amount of blue light in the spectrum. This is an important consideration when choosing a CCT as well. New research has proven that cooler white CCT's(with more blue light in the spectrum) are very harmful to us when used at night around bedtime. They supress melatonin production and adversely effect both the ability to fall asleep and the quality of sleep once asleep. This has been found to be such a problem that cities have started to ban the use of high CCT lights for public and road lighting.

Then there is environmental conditions. They should be taken into account as well. For instance, cooler CCT's cause more reflection and glare in rain, fog, and dusty condition so, choosing a warmer CCT light would be prudent in these conditions.

Many things should be considered when choosing a CCT for the lighting you plan to use. But, I think choosing warmer CCT's at night and cooler CCT's in the day is a good place to start.

 

[Keletic]

You've given me a lot to think about. I may be wise to wait for the next model but I'm anxious haha. Although the 1,800 lumens would be nice to have if I felt the need to show off or illuminate a forest, the vast majority of the flashlight's life would likely be spent illuminating up close items. I'm a Mechanical Engineer and I work on massive cranes and hoists. I routinely inspect light lacking areas that require high CRI such as viewing electrical wiring or diagnosing fluid leaks. It's in these instances that I would likely benefit most from high flood. The headlamp does seem very practical also but my flashlight use is generally so spur of the moment in lieu of constant use for extended periods of time and it'd be a hassle to carry around a headband each time I needed a light. I usually hold my EAGTAC between my teeth when working with my hands but the Zebralight may be a little big for that.

 

[JStraus]

If you have the 5000K Nichia, and was going to order one of your listed ZL's, I'd get the Fd. I have the SC600 Fd MKIII Plus and I think it's a fantastic light. The MKIV has a bit more output and the new programmable UI. I am not that motivated to swap the III for the IV since I sold a few last gen for the 64c and the SC5c MKII. Those are definitely warmer at the 4000K compared to the Fd Plus at 5000K. You will probably find the tint to be a very tiny bit less warm (read: a tiny bit greener) than the Nichia. But the Fd should have very even color across the beam like mine does and it's a wonderful light in real use. It's my goto at my front door for dog walking and most outdoor use. It's bright enough for real world use and you don't have to aim it much since it spreads such a nice wall of light.
So unless you think you'd prefer a yellower/warmer light than your current I think you'd love the SC600 Fd MKIV Plus...

 

[Keletic]

To your question about tint, everything I've learned about color temperature ends up backing up the theory (hypothesis?) of Kruithof's curve: that the brighter the light is, the cooler we're going to want it to be, and the dimmer it is, the warmer we'll want it to be... to see best.
This really seems to be correct in my experience so far, not only that, but the brighter the light is, the more unbearable warmer light is, while cooler and cooler lights are better tolerated at higher and higher intensities...
So 1000-2000 lumens is a lot of light, but you don't look at your hand at that level, but use it for distance...
I think it's still in the zone where warmer is better.
The 4000K Fc variant is the light that I'm interested in, personally.
If I were going to use the newer ZL lights on their highest settings at close range for some reason then I'd go for the Fd variant instead.

I was already leaning toward the 4,000K color temperature soI'm glad we are in agreement there. Also on a somewhat unrelated note, I justlooked back at my Eagle Tactical receipt and it appears I actually have anXM-L2 Neutral White LED in lieu of the Nichia http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25tirc_2/features/index.html.I don't know how many times I've complimented my flashight's Nichia LED only tofind it is not. Oh well.

 

[Keletic]

I don't agree with this at all. And, it should kept in mind that tint and colour temperature (CCT) are not the same thing so, they shouldn't be used interchangeably.

Personally, I think it is best to choose a colour temperature that best matches the ambient lighting you will be using it in. Cooler CCT's for daytime supplemental use and warmer CCT's for nighttime use just as a loose example.

The human eye/brain automatically white/colour balances and by using a CCT that best matches the ambient lighting, it will require less adjustment and be less of a shock(less harsh) on your eyes. The light will also look less coloured right away as your eyes/brain don't have to adjust to the new colour.

Then there is the amount of blue light in the spectrum. This is an important consideration when choosing a CCT as well. New research has proven that cooler white CCT's(with more blue light in the spectrum) are very harmful to us when used at night around bedtime. They supress melatonin production and adversely effect both the ability to fall asleep and the quality of sleep once asleep. This has been found to be such a problem that cities have started to ban the use of high CCT lights for public and road lighting.

Then there is environmental conditions. They should be taken into account as well. For instance, cooler CCT's cause more reflection and glare in rain, fog, and dusty condition so, choosing a warmer CCT light would be prudent in these conditions.

Many things should be considered when choosing a CCT for the lighting you plan to use. But, I think choosing warmer CCT's at night and cooler CCT's in the day is a good place to start.

This is a good point. I won't use my phone without the bluetint filter on.

 

[markr6]

And, it should kept in mind that tint and colour temperature (CCT) are not the same thing so, they shouldn't be used interchangeably.

Never forget this. I wish I still had my 4000K Zebralight to compare with my 4000K Malkoff MD2 w/ Nichia 219. Same CCT...but I still remember how one was nasty yellow (tint), one is pure white. The difference couldn't have been any more extreme.

 

[Keletic]

If you have the 5000K Nichia, and was going to order one of your listed ZL's, I'd get the Fd. I have the SC600 Fd MKIII Plus and I think it's a fantastic light. The MKIV has a bit more output and the new programmable UI. I am not that motivated to swap the III for the IV since I sold a few last gen for the 64c and the SC5c MKII. Those are definitely warmer at the 4000K compared to the Fd Plus at 5000K. You will probably find the tint to be a very tiny bit less warm (read: a tiny bit greener) than the Nichia. But the Fd should have very even color across the beam like mine does and it's a wonderful light in real use. It's my goto at my front door for dog walking and most outdoor use. It's bright enough for real world use and you don't have to aim it much since it spreads such a nice wall of light.
So unless you think you'd prefer a yellower/warmer light than your current I think you'd love the SC600 Fd MKIV Plus...

I edited my post and also added another comment. Apparently I've been wrong all this time. I actually have a Neutral White XM-L2 in my Eagltac (http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25tirc/features/index.html) and I've been giving the credit to a non-existant Nichia for years now. I am unsure what the color temperature is in the XM-L2 but I would like to stay close to that. The most important this of course is color rendering. I am also still trying to wrap my head around how I can get the same high color rendering with two different color temperatures. The higher temperature seems like it would make things appear more blue vice the lower temperature giving things a more yellow or red appearance…

 

[Keletic]

Never forget this. I wish I still had my 4000K Zebralight to compare with my 4000K Malkoff MD2 w/ Nichia 219. Same CCT...but I still remember how one was nasty yellow (tint), one is pure white. The difference couldn't have been any more extreme.

I assume the 4000K was the nasty yellow tint?

 

[Tachead]

You've given me a lot to think about. I may be wise to wait for the next model but I'm anxious haha. Although the 1,800 lumens would be nice to have if I felt the need to show off or illuminate a forest, the vast majority of the flashlight's life would likely be spent illuminating up close items. I'm a Mechanical Engineer and I work on massive cranes and hoists. I routinely inspect light lacking areas that require high CRI such as viewing electrical wiring or diagnosing fluid leaks. It's in these instances that I would likely benefit most from high flood. The headlamp does seem very practical also but my flashlight use is generally so spur of the moment in lieu of constant use for extended periods of time and it'd be a hassle to carry around a headband each time I needed a light. I usually hold my EAGTAC between my teeth when working with my hands but the Zebralight may be a little big for that.

I own both the ZL H600Fc MKIII and H600Fd MKIII(so I have identical lights to directly compare) and I can tell you that if you are going to be using your light during the day, in a work environment, most of the time I would definitely go with the 5000K Fd. I vastly prefer 4000K for night time use and it is my favorite overall CCT but, for during the day at work or at home, the Fd is much better imo. The 4000K Fc looks very yellowy orange during the day and is a sharp contrast to daylight and most average lighting in the work place.

 

[markr6]

I assume the 4000K was the nasty yellow tint?

They were both 4000K. But the Zebralight was yellow, unfortunately. The Malkoff with the Nichia 219 was basically a tintless 4000K...nice and white.

 

[Keletic]

They were both 4000K. But the Zebralight was yellow, unfortunately. The Malkoff with the Nichia 219 was basically a tintless 4000K...nice and white.

Yes, that's what I meant to say. You'd recommend the 5000kSC600Fd Mk IV Plus then?

 

[Keletic]

I own both the ZL H600Fc MKIII and H600Fd MKIII(so I have identical lights to directly compare) and I can tell you that if you are going to be using your light during the day, in a work environment, most of the time I would definitely go with the 5000K Fd. I vastly prefer 4000K for night time use and it is my favorite overall CCT but, for during the day at work or at home, the Fd is much better imo. The 4000K Fc looks very yellowy orange during the day and is a sharp contrast to daylight and most average lighting in the work place.

I really wish I had the two side by side to compare. I amprobably looking for whatever is closer to neutral white. Sounds like it may justbe somewhere in the middle around 4500k. I wish the choice was easier to makehaha.

 

[Tachead]

I really wish I had the two side by side to compare. I amprobably looking for whatever is closer to neutral white. Sounds like it may justbe somewhere in the middle around 4500k. I wish the choice was easier to makehaha.

The 5000K Fd is definitely more of a pure neutral white during the day. Here it is against a white ceiling...

And, here is a comparison of the H600Fc and Fd(same frosted lens and emitters and the SC Series just smaller) with the cameras white balance locked at 4800K(the colours are slightly exaggerated but, it gives you an idea)...

The easy choice is to get both:devil:. That way you have the Fd for the day and then Fc for at night. That is what I did.

 

[Tachead]

Here is a comparison I just did against the same white ceiling as the first picture. The colours are pretty accurate and close to what you will see in real life(monitor settings aside of course).

5000K Fd Left and 4000K Fc Right

 

[markr6]

Wow! That's whiter than white. I never considered replacing my old H600w, but you're tempting me!

 

[Tachead]

Wow! That's whiter than white. I never considered replacing my old H600w, but you're tempting me!

Yep, it is a nice CCT with a very pure tint(likely extremely close to the BBL). It is a bit too cool for night use imo though and I much prefer the Fc for that. Keep in mind these are the MKIII versions I have so, who knows if the new MKIV XHP50.2 versions will be this nice.

 

[Keletic]

Is it safe to say that the 5000k is very close toneutral white? That 5000K color looks really good. I might be leaning a bit more in that direction. Having the floody beam definitely helps too when you have whiter light I think too as it will help disperse the hot spots. All too often I'll have mechanics shining their 950 lumen NiteCore SRT 7 flashlights into gearboxes, electrical panels, etc. and washingeverything out with glare and concentrated hotspots. On a side note, this site glitches like mad. I haveto type my responses in Word and copy them over. I think I noticed the issue brought up in thequestions section, I just haven't checked it out yet.