Need help to choose a good sharpener-PLEASE!

P_A_S_1

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It doesn't bug me, I just probably wouldn't have commented because the OP has long likely made his choice and no longer checks the thread, purely practical. You make a good point though. Oddly enough I've been eyeing the double stuff for quite a while. Most seem to like it.
 

ForrestChump

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It doesn't bug me, I just probably wouldn't have commented because the OP has long likely made his choice and no longer checks the thread, purely practical. You make a good point though. Oddly enough I've been eyeing the double stuff for quite a while. Most seem to like it.

I'd pick it up, compact, portable, and once you know what your doing it's a very accomplished feeling touching up your knives freehand. Don't tell your friends you know how, otherwise you'll have an unwanted part time job....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BotfyG0DadY

Thats how I learned. I don't let them get dull enough to use the 400 grit. Im always on the white finer side.
 

P_A_S_1

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Thats how I learned. I don't let them get dull enough to use the 400 grit. Im always on the white finer side.

For a long time I had trouble sharpening. I'm comfortable with the results I get now. Looking back I believe the problem was that I had too much 'information' on sharpening without a basic understanding of the process. I actually got a book on sharpening that really broke it down and helped me understand better what I was actually doing.
 

ForrestChump

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Thats a great way to learn. I should pick up a book as well, granted you can find most info online, a book forces you to concentrate. The net is to distracting.

That said, you should have no issue with the doublestuff.
 

P_A_S_1

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I used a ceramic rod sharpener tonight to work on a serrated bread knife. The rod was from Chicago Cutlery, it was pretty old, and I have no idea what type of grit it was but it ate the steel pretty aggressively and left a good edge in no time, it was fast! It loaded with the steel quickly but cleaned up easy with wet paper towels. In reading on line reviews about ceramic sharpeners I get the impression that they aren't the best route and that diamonds and aluminum oxide are better but I was surprised how well it worked, at least on that one knife (German steel). If the Spyderco ceramics are as good I wonder why they aren't as popular, or for that matter why more manufacturers don't offer ceramics.
 

Tonykarter

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I've converted to sharpening steels and have not used a stone in years. Unless your blades are really dull you probably only need to true up the edge. If they are dull, a Smith's or equivalent will get you to a an arm-hair-cutting state of sharp quickly, and you can improve on that with a steel from there. At my age it is all about time conservation. A 10-12 inch sharpening steel will do this quicker than a stone, and leave you with a forearm without much hair on it.

I've used a barber's strop for many years too, but recently bought one of these: http://stropman.com/BIG-BOY-Leather-Strop-BIG-BOY.htm. WELL worth the money. Properly used this strop will equip your blade to shave your face. There is a big difference between sharp enough to shave your arm and sharp enough to shave your face. Guess who is the most popular guy at deer camp now.
 

P_A_S_1

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I do the same but I use a piece of leather instead of steel, does the same albeit slower. The steel I have isn't smooth, it ridged, so I tend not to use it unless the edge is getting into bad shape and it's getting close to needing a stone anyway. Then it's medium india for the relief, hard Arkansas for the edge.
 

SSoonr

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I have paper wheels on a bench grinder (which I am still learning), but find most of the time I just need a leather strop to get my edge back.
 

MrJino

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Finally got a knife sharpener delivered at my place. Really a good piece to take care of my knives in my knife collection.
Hope that it will be beneficial for my knives.
IMG_20150423_124219.jpg

I wouldn't use those types of sharpeners If you paid me $100
 

Toolboxkid

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Ive had the best luck with the spyderco sharp maker. It makes it easy to get the angle you want and is very versatile. Plus it's under $50 but I must suggest the ultra fine rods as an addition. I have no need to strop anymore since I started using this setup. Hope this helps


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums
 

MrJino

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Those junk, scrap metal off your blade.

Most knife users know enough to avoid these.
Sorry if I came off as offensive, but really, do not use them.
 

FatRat

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harbor freight 1"x30" belt with 600 grit 1200 grit and leather belt=awesome convex edge.pocket knives to machetes
 

dnlmcginnis5

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Fat rats right I sharpen for money


I use 1x42 inch belts
I buy 3m trizact diamond cloth belts going down to A6 grit then onto leather 1x42 belts with 0.5 micron fake diamond chips to finish I do straight razors this way too that will pass the hanging hair test

Look at Kalamazoo 1x42 inch belt sanders there the best money can buy you want to go convex I can go on and on about the grind type
 

dnlmcginnis5

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Don't listen to noobs that give you bad advice you'll wind up spending needless money for just wasting valuable steel grinding it away once you obtain your profile stropping will keep it shaving sharp for a LONG time
 

P_A_S_1

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For the price conscious, Heckles and Chicago Cutlery make ceramic rods that are hand held like a butcher's steel for around $20. A cheaper alternative to the Sharpemaker. Not easy to find and they require the user to hold the angle but inexpensive and effective.
 

abbazaba

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+1 on the Sharpmaker - everyone who owns a knife should have one!

Make that +2. I have the Lansky and never use it since I got the diamond rods for my Sharpmarker. Its a great system that works for nearly everything.
 
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