*new* Olight S10

[Fireclaw18]

...

I wonder if a triple 219 would fit? The triple optics seem to fit in there just fine, but replacing the driver could be a pain.

Interesting. I haven't tried that.

The emitter compartment of the pill is maybe 15mm across. a 14mm star fits fine. A 16mm star is a tight fit. Typically available triple star and triple optics are 20mm.

Assuming the interior of the body is at least 20mm wide, this could work. You'd have to completely remove the reflector and possibly the top of the pill with the reflector screw threads. Then make a platform out of cut pieces of aluminum or copper for a 20mm star to sit on. Adjust the height of this platform so the led, star, optic and lens are at the right height when the bezel is screwed down.

The driver would be tricky. The S10 uses a custom electronic switch driver that outputs pretty low current to the LED. To make running triple emitter worthwhile you'd probably want a 3 amp driver powering three emitters in parallel (so 1 amp per emitter). You'd probably have to completely ditch the S10's driver and make or buy a custom-programmed one. I know of one guy who custom programs 17mm Nangj 105c drivers (which can easily be shaved to 15mm), but I'm not sure that driver would fit into the light.

If the interior body of the head is narrower than 20mm then forget making a triple emitter mod. It won't work.

____

After glancing at my S10 I think it might work. Might have to plan this out as a mod to try. Perhaps something along the lines of the following:
1. Olight S10 - chop down top of pill and build heatsink out of copper disks. Replace emitter with 20mm triple star with triple Nichia 219.
2. Replace driver with custom programmed Nangj 105c 2.8 amp driver with shortcuts to min, max, 10% and 2-way ramping.
3. Rebuild inside of pill including switch mount. Possibly replace switch with Radio Shack momentary.
4. Run on IMR 16340.

Or for something more ambitious...
1. Olight S20 - same as above for S10, but also chop body tube in half and remove center section. Glue smaller tube back together.
2. Replace emitter with triple XP-G2. two neutral tint and one cool white tint.
3. Replace driver with custom programmed Nangj 105c with extra 7135 chips attached for 5-6 amps.
4. Switch same as above for S10.
5. Run on IMR 18350.

 

[moshow9]

A triple is possible in the S10, ZanZan modded his:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?351232-WTS-Triple-Nichia-219-XP-G2-dropins-for-Lummi-Raw&p=4121896&viewfull=1#post4121896

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...or-Lummi-Raw&p=4122388&viewfull=1#post4122388

 

[Bauer]

This doesn't seem right. My recollection is that changing the star out for a thicker star doesn't affect the size of the battery compartment in any way. When the pill is inserted it goes into it's slot and stops at exactly the right depth. If using a thicker star shrunk the battery compartment that would mean that the entire pill was moving further back into the light.... but if that was the case then the button would no longer line up with the switch boot and the light wouldn't work at all.

My guess is what is happening to you is that due to your 10mm star, the leadwires are shorting on the aluminum reflector. This is pretty simple to fix. Get a small piece of thin plastic. Any plastic will do... a piece cut from the packaging from a pen or pencil works. Cut it into a thin disk with a hole in the center for the led. After you insert the star, place this disk on top of the star before you screw down the reflector. This disk will isolate leadwires and prevent shorting so that the light will work flawlessly. I know this because I too used a Nichia 219 with 10mm star and also had the light malfunction. The above solution fixed it.

I have the connections isolated from shorting on the reflector. Its seems to be the thickness of the star that is keeping the reflector from tightening all the way down. this makes the reflector/pill a tad longer and tightening the bezel all the way down causes the malfunction. The switch will line up + or - 1mm or so from centered.

On another note, the little tab that goes into the cut out slot for alignment seems to do nothing. It does not catch on the "v" shaped cutout when removing the pill. The pill just popped right out when i gave it a little push with the battery.

Does anyone have pictures of theirs that I could compare to mine?

 

[Fireclaw18]

I have the connections isolated from shorting on the reflector. Its seems to be the thickness of the star that is keeping the reflector from tightening all the way down. this makes the reflector/pill a tad longer and tightening the bezel all the way down causes the malfunction. The switch will line up + or - 1mm or so from centered.

On another note, the little tab that goes into the cut out slot for alignment seems to do nothing. It does not catch on the "v" shaped cutout when removing the pill. The pill just popped right out when i gave it a little push with the battery.

Does anyone have pictures of theirs that I could compare to mine?

Why not just reflow a 219 onto a thinner star? Reflowing is easy. All you need is a vise, a wooden paperclip to hold the star, a soldering iron, and some low temp solder paste.